From Vintage Charm to Modern Evolution: The Rolex Submariner 1680 and 16800

The Rolex Submariner: 1680 and 16800

Few watch collections can rival the heritage and evolution embodied by Rolex’s Submariner range. Today, we’re showcasing two significant references which we’re listing today for sale on www.crownvintage.com.au —the 1680 and the 16800—side by side, offering a unique glimpse into the transition from vintage charm to modern functionality. Although each model has its distinct character, they share the Submariner DNA that, since the 1950s, has focused on practical design for the professional diver and for the watch collector alike.

Rolex Submariner 1680

The Submariner 1680 made its debut in the late 1960s as the first in the series to feature a date window. This innovation opened the door to users seeking more than just underwater timekeeping, transforming the Submariner into an everyday companion while still meeting the requirements of the diving community. Early examples of the 1680 included red “Submariner” text on the dial, which later gave way to white lettering. This 1978 piece represents one of the later examples in the reference’s lifecycle, with production ceasing around 1979. It retains the familiar 40 mm stainless steel case, coupled with an acrylic crystal, a material still favoured by collectors for its vintage aesthetic. Within, it employs the calibre 1575, providing a date mechanism that can be viewed through the trademark Cyclops lens. Its balanced proportions, dial layout, and purposeful design reflect a period when dive watches were crafted primarily to assist explorers in the depths, yet also appealed to those wanting a versatile daily timepiece.

Rolex Submariner 16800

Shortly after the 1680’s production ended, the Submariner 16800 arrived on the scene, showcasing how Rolex refined the series to keep pace with evolving expectations. Launched around 1979 and continuing into the mid-1980s, it introduced a sapphire crystal for enhanced scratch resistance. Water resistance was also upgraded to 300 metres, appealing to those who demanded advanced underwater capability. This reference employed the calibre 3035, which featured a quickset date function—an important step forward that streamlined everyday operations for the wearer. The 1985 example on offer sits in an era that bridged the matte dial tradition of earlier versions with emerging elements like glossy dials and white gold surrounds on the hour markers. These updates signalled Rolex’s growing focus on visual finesse, without abandoning the core practicality of the Submariner lineage.

Rolex Submariner 1680 and 16800

Viewed together, the 1680 and 16800 illustrate a fascinating transformation in Rolex’s approach to dive watches. Where the 1680 solidified the idea of adding a date window to a diver’s timepiece, the 16800 refined that concept, bringing durability and functionality to new levels. The older reference sports an acrylic crystal and slightly different dial aesthetics, reflecting the tool-watch origins of the Submariner. Meanwhile, the newer reference presents features we now associate with modern luxury divers, from the sapphire crystal to enhanced water-resistance ratings. Both, however, are united by a design ethos that made the Submariner an icon—highly legible displays, distinct bezels with minute markings, and steel construction that can handle demanding conditions.

Beyond their technical updates, each watch offers a distinct experience for collectors and enthusiasts. The 1680 carries echoes of an age when sea exploration was pushing boundaries, and when the Submariner was a trusted piece of equipment as much as it was a status item. In contrast, the 16800 stands at the threshold of the watch’s transition into a more refined era, balancing professional-grade features with a sleeker aesthetic that would come to define later Submariner references.

We’re delighted to present these two notable models together. Whether one is drawn to the late 1970s charm of the 1680 or appreciates the forward-looking style of the 16800, both references offer a tangible link to Rolex’s maritime heritage. For those seeking a historical perspective on how the Submariner evolved—or simply looking for a standout vintage watch—these listings represent a chance to own pieces that exemplify different chapters in a legacy spanning decades. By examining the 1680 and the 16800 in parallel, enthusiasts can better understand the brand’s trajectory from practical diving instrument to a universally recognised design, solidifying the Submariner’s place among the most influential wristwatches ever made.