Heuer Camaro 7220T First Execution

The Underrated Vintage Chronograph with Racing DNA

Among the many gems in Heuer’s vintage chronograph catalogue, few remain as underappreciated — yet deeply compelling — as the Heuer Camaro 7220T First Execution. Produced in the late 1960s, the Camaro 7220T represents a brief but important period in Heuer’s development of racing-inspired chronographs.

With its elegant cushion-shaped case, manually wound chronograph movement, and clean, motorsport-inspired dial layout, the 7220T is a textbook example of Heuer’s commitment to functionality blended with design finesse. The “First Execution” version, in particular, is prized by collectors for its early production features, which mark it as one of the most authentic and desirable iterations of the Camaro series.

What Is the Heuer Camaro?

The Heuer Camaro was introduced in 1968, named after the Chevrolet Camaro — one of the most iconic American muscle cars of the 1960s. It was Heuer’s direct appeal to the American market during a time when motorsports and car culture were rapidly gaining popularity.

Unlike the round-case Carrera or the tonneau-shaped Autavia, the Camaro stood out with its cushion-shaped case — angular yet compact, blending a tool-watch aesthetic with mid-century elegance. The name was fitting: like the car it was named after, the watch was bold, sporty, and distinctly American in spirit.

Despite its strong design and mechanical reliability, the Camaro had a relatively short production run, ending in the early 1970s as Heuer shifted its focus to automatic chronographs with the launch of the Calibre 11.

 

 

Reference 7220: The Valjoux 72 Camaro

The Camaro 7220 is considered the flagship of the Camaro line, powered by the legendary Valjoux 72 manual-wind chronograph movement. This movement also powered iconic chronographs from Rolex, Universal Genève, and other top-tier brands of the era.

Heuer offered the 7220 with different dial configurations — the two main dial types being the 7220N (black dial) and the 7220T (silver dial with tachymeter scale). The “T” in 7220T refers to the Tachymeter scale, which is printed on the outer edge of the dial and is used for measuring speed based on travel time — a key tool for racing drivers.

The First Execution of the 7220T stands out for its unique dial design and early-production traits, making it one of the most desirable Camaros in the vintage market today.

Movement: Valjoux 72

At the core of the 7220T is the Valjoux 72, one of the most respected chronograph movements of the 20th century. Known for its robust design and precise functionality, the Valjoux 72 is a manual-wind, column-wheel chronograph that provides buttery-smooth chronograph operation and excellent timekeeping performance.

Valjoux 72 Specifications:

• Manual winding
• 17 jewels
• Column-wheel chronograph
• 18,000 beats per hour
• Approximately 48-hour power reserve
• Sub-dials for 30-minute, 12-hour, and running seconds counters
• This movement’s inclusion places the 7220T in the same league as Rolex Daytona 6239 and Universal Genève Compax models of the era, giving it exceptional horological credibility.

Wearing the Camaro 7220T

Despite its 37mm size, the Camaro wears prominently on the wrist due to its square, cushion-case shape and short, angled lugs. The flat caseback and thin profile give it a comfortable and balanced feel. The combination of a polished bezel and brushed case top adds a refined contrast that enhances its visual presence.

Its size, wearability, and understated elegance make it one of the most versatile vintage Heuers. The silver dial version — particularly the 7220T — has a clean, bright look that pairs well with a variety of straps, from racing-style leather to stainless steel bracelets.

Why the 7220T First Execution Stands Out

Early Production Purity

The lack of dial lume, minimal text, and omission of tritium markings all point to a clean, early design that reflects Jack Heuer’s Bauhaus-inspired design philosophy: form follows function.

Valjoux 72 MovementT

The use of the Valjoux 72 places it at the top tier of Heuer’s manually wound chronographs. Few Camaros had this movement, making the 7220T even more desirable.

Short Production Run

The First Execution was produced for a brief period in 1968–1969, before dial and case design changes were introduced. Later versions began incorporating luminous markers and dial text changes, making the original models rare and easily distinguishable.

Clean Dial Layout

With its silver sunburst dial, recessed sub-dials, and tachymeter scale, the 7220T First Execution offers a visually balanced and legible chronograph layout. It’s a study in 1960s chronograph design that remains timeless.

Market Value and Collectability

Due to its relatively low production volume, the Camaro 7220T First Execution is far less common than contemporaneous models like the Carrera or Autavia. As of recent years, collector interest in the Camaro line has surged, driven by growing appreciation for smaller, wearable chronographs with unique case shapes and historically important movements.

Prices can vary based on originality of dial, hands, condition of the case, and whether the movement has been serviced. Original pushers, crown, and correct sub-dial fonts are all crucial to value.

Camaro vs. Carrera and Autavia

While the Carrera and Autavia often overshadow the Camaro in Heuer’s catalogue, the Camaro offers exceptional value and uniqueness. It features:

• The same movement pedigree
• A distinctive cushion case not seen in other Heuer chronographs
• A more limited production window
• A cleaner, often more minimalistic dial layout
• This makes the Camaro an excellent choice for collectors looking for something a bit off the beaten path, yet entirely authentic to Heuer’s racing roots.

Final Thoughts

The Heuer Camaro 7220T First Execution is a remarkable example of late 1960s Swiss chronograph design. With its unique case shape, refined dial layout, and Valjoux 72 movement, it embodies everything that made Heuer a leader in motorsport timekeeping during that era.

Though it was produced for only a short time, the 7220T First Execution stands as a design-driven, mechanically robust, and historically significant watch. For collectors seeking a vintage Heuer with real pedigree and standout style — but without the price tag of a vintage Carrera or Autavia — the early Camaro offers one of the most compelling opportunities in the vintage chronograph market.

Understated yet distinctive, the 7220T is a chronograph that rewards close study — and delivers enduring value to those who appreciate the details that define true vintage character.