The Forgotten Icons: Worthy Watches Overlooked by Time
Celebrating Overlooked Timepieces Within the Collecting Universe
When it comes to vintage watches, it appears that everybody always has something to say regarding Rolex and Omega. Their iconic stature as symbols of the horological community is well earned, but this universal admiration has the result, unfortunately, of pushing other excellent models and makers to the margins. These “lost icons” may not be as well known, but offer excellent workmanship, one-of-a-kind models, and intriguing backstories—all at prices still relatively affordable.
This piece takes you through an edited list of our top under-appreciated vintage timepieces deserving greater exposure. Whether you are an established collector or just beginning, these under-appreciated gems are worth considering.
Universal Genève Polerouter: A Design Masterpiece
The Universal Genève Polerouter has one of the best-kept secrets in vintage collecting, as it has an incredibly rich historical past. Made in 1954 as a celebration of the first ever polar flights by SAS Airlines, the Polerouter has an illustrious designer, Gérald Genta, just 23 years old when it was created.
Although Genta is perhaps best known today for later masterpieces, including the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Polerouter marks the debut of his illustrious career. The sleek mid-century case highlights Genta’s ability to balance beauty and functionality. The crosshair dial, razor-thin dauphine hands, and waiflike case contribute to its timelessness.
Beneath the case, the Polerouter protects Universal Genève’s trail-blazing micro-rotor caliber, one that allowed the construction of an ultra-thin automatic caliber, an unheard-of achievement when it first saw the light. The Caliber 215, together with those that ensued, are revered for technical excellence, inspiring countless subsequent automatic caliber creations.
Despite its historical importance and direct connection to one of the greatest designer-makers in the field of horology, the Polerouter still remains relatively affordable in the vintage community. For those connoisseurs out there that appreciate great design and technical excellence, this is one watch that absolutely merits greater acclaim.
Longines Conquest: Tribute to Timeless Beauty
While Longines has achieved universal acclaim today, many of its contemporary connotations relate to affordable luxury. However, the vintage Longines Conquest line produced during the 1950s and 1960s does well to remind us of the brand’s historical prestige as an expensive timepiece maker.
Conquest was defined by beautiful but functional dials, often featuring dauphine hands and applied markers, in heavy stainless steel or gold-plated cases. A number of models had enamel medallions on the case back, an artistic touch. A standout is the Longines Conquest Monopusher Munich Olympics 1972, an historical one.
Internally, the Conquest contained Longines’ own calibers, one of them being the famous Caliber 291. These movements enjoyed an excellent reputation for accuracy, longevity, and technical sophistication. Collectors, however, get beyond the first glance, find that the Conquest is an undervalued treasure in the vintage community.
Zenith A277: A Pre-El Primero Classic
Zenith is best known perhaps for the El Primero chronograph, but it also has an antecedent, the A277, deserving of some description. Made back in the 1960s, the A277 balances functional practicality with vintage tool-watch aesthetics.
This watch has a bi-directional rotating bezel, pump pushers, and black bold dial featuring luminescent markers and hands. At the centre lies the Valjoux 72 caliber, the same caliber found in early Rolex Daytonas, so it is an established, highly demanded caliber.
What sets the Zenith A277 apart, though, is the balance it achieves between rugged build quality and understated sophistication. It’s one watch that does not seek the spotlight but rewards those who appreciate timeless beauty. Because it’s relatively uncommon and there has been greater passion for vintage Zenith timepieces, maybe it’s the best time ever to obtain one.
Enicar Sherpa Dive Series: A Hidden Gem Among Dive Watches
Vintage dive watches have always had huge popularity, but Enicar’s Sherpa Dive line has remarkably remained under the radar. Respected for their construction quality and technical innovations, timepieces like the Sherpa Graph and Sherpa Super-Dive have developed a die-hard cult base.
The Sherpa Graph, powered by the Valjoux 72 caliber, gained respect as F1 legend Jim Clark’s timepiece of choice, enhancing further its credentials in the field of motorsports. The Super-Dive, by way of comparison, possessed first-rate water resistance and thick construction that competed head-on with the Submariner by Rolex in the 1960s.
Enicar watches also find recognition by virtue of their signature “EPSA” compressor cases, indicative of vintage dive watch construction. These cases, together with bold patterns on the dials, as well as maximum functionality, make Sherpa models an interesting option over mass-market dive watches.
Certina DS: Made for Adventure
Certina’s Double Security (DS) line, released in the 1960s, was one of the first successes of shock absorption and waterproofing. Fitted with suspended movement by rubber mounts, the DS system possessed shock protection rivaling the strongest tool watches of the day.
The DS gained international renown by accompanying mountaineers on Himalayan treks, confirming it as an adventurers’ timepiece. The early DS models typically have clear dials, bold numerals, and heavy cases that exude functional attractiveness.
Despite its technical success, Certina remains an undervalued brand name in the vintage community. The DS line offers buyers an excellent opportunity to obtain one quality, period-appropriate timepiece at an attractive price.
Seiko 62MAS: A Japanese Dive Watch Trailblazer
Although Seiko has gained immense respect over recent decades, the 62MAS (ref. 6217) does not, as yet, get the respect it deserves beyond hardcore Seiko circles. In 1965, it was the first professional-diving watch produced by Seiko, laying the groundwork for the brand’s iconic Prospex line.
The 62MAS had an unassuming functional design, plain dial, durable case, and reliable Caliber 6217 movement, so it proved an adequate tool watch for underwater explorations.
What makes the 62MAS so attractive, apart from it being an excellent timepiece, is the effect it has had on later Seiko dive watches. Iconic models, such as the SKX007, as well as newer Prospex reissues, trace back to this groundbreaking timepiece. Since vintage Seikos continue to appreciate, the 62MAS has become an essential addition to any Japanese watch collecting enthusiast.
Heuer Monza: A Racing-Inspired Underdog
Released in 1976, the Monza was specifically created to commemorate Ferrari’s victory in the 1975 Formula 1 World Championship, marking Heuer’s sponsorship agreement as timekeeper for Ferrari. While it has sports car credentials, the Monza plays second fiddle to other vintage models by Heuer, such as the Monaco and Carrera.
The Monza’s tonneau case stood out from traditional round models. The early models had a black PVD case, one of the first timepieces to employ the ubiquitous finish today, lending the timepiece an aggressive, sportsy look that captured the very spirit of racing in the 1970s.
Why These Watches Matter
Watches like the Longines Conquest, Zenith A277, and the Universal Genève Polerouter remind us that excellence in horology does not always result from the best-known names in the industry. Lesser-known models and less appreciated manufacturers played an equal role in building the world of watches today.
For collectors, finding these under-appreciated icons allows them the opportunity to own rare, period-appropriate timepieces that are other than the ubiquitous Submariner and Speedmasters. Not only do these little-known gems offer impeccable workmanship and construction, but also some of the best vintage values.
In an era where collecting revolves so much around marquee names, it takes time to appreciate these underappreciated gems, but it also proves to be an incredibly satisfying exercise.