The Legendary Rolex Explorer II 1655: Embrace the Darkness
Rolex Explorer II 1655
The Rolex Explorer II 1655 is a watch that needs no introduction—yet it deserves one that does it justice, because it’s a piece so steeped in history, design intrigue, and sheer presence that it has become a true grail for collectors around the world, including me! Yes, this is my grail watch. If you’re seeking a Rolex that stands out from the masses of Submariners and GMT-Masters, the Explorer II 1655 might just be the ultimate catch. Let’s dive headfirst into the details of this legendary timepiece and explore why it continues to command such reverence among watch enthusiasts, even decades after its debut.
A Radical Departure in 1971
In 1971, Rolex did something that seemed a little out there for the conservative Swiss powerhouse: it launched the first-ever Explorer II, reference 1655. The original Explorer line (ref. 1016 and its predecessors) was always about rugged simplicity, famously accompanying mountaineers up to the summit of Everest. But by the early 1970s, Rolex expanded that spirit of adventure to include spelunkers, cavers, and explorers who operated in environments where sunlight was optional at best. The Explorer II 1655 was designed to help wearers distinguish day from night in dark conditions, thanks to its oversized 24-hour hand and fixed bezel marked from 1 to 24.
Right away, the watch cut a unique figure. Instead of the rotating bezel that many had come to expect from the Submariner or GMT-Master, Rolex opted for a fixed steel bezel etched with 24-hour numerals. The dial was cluttered—by Rolex standards, at least—and that made it unlike anything else in the lineup. And then there was that big orange arrow of a hand, a “monster” hour indicator (sometimes called the “Freccione,” meaning “arrow” in Italian) that served as a 24-hour pointer. To some, the watch was borderline ugly. But to others who dared to embrace its boldness, it was the coolest thing Rolex had done in a long time.
Purpose-Built for Darkness
The concept behind the Explorer II 1655 was grounded in practicality: in perpetual darkness or limited light environments, it’s easy to lose track of whether it’s day or night. Instead of relying on guesswork, the watch’s 24-hour hand gave a clear indication, pointing to the appropriate number on the fixed bezel. If the big orange hand was pointing at “15,” for instance, you knew it was 3 PM, not 3 AM. This was especially handy for those spending long stretches in caves, exploring polar regions during seasons of extended night, or working in deep mines.
While that functionality was specialised, it lent the Explorer II an air of extreme capability. Here was a watch that aimed to solve a very real problem faced by a small band of adventurers. The watch may not have initially sold like hotcakes (some people found it too niche), but for those who got it, the 1655 was a steadfast companion in the harshest conditions imaginable.
Design Quirks and Evolving Dials
From the get-go, the Explorer II 1655 displayed a set of details that makes each iteration a treasure to interpret. Early versions (often called “Mark I”) featured a straight seconds hand with a luminous dot, while later series introduced a seconds hand with a small rectangle of lume—a subtle but noteworthy shift. Likewise, the printing on the dial, the fonts, and the alignment of the markers would change slightly over the years, giving rise to the famed Mark I through Mark V dial variations that collectors love to bicker about, study, and chase.
One of the most alluring aspects of vintage Rolex collecting is how these small differences can translate to big shifts in value, desirability, and bragging rights among enthusiasts. Certain early Mark I dials with the open 6 or specific font nuances are unbelievably sought after, driving prices through the roof. The “rail dial” phenomenon (where the letter spacing in two lines of text beneath the centre point lines up like parallel rails) also appears on some late-series 1655s and can command a premium for its rarity.
And let’s not forget about patina. Over time, the tritium lume on many 1655 dials has aged to a warm, custard-like hue that watch fanatics adore. Combined with the oxidation or fading that can occur on the steel bezel and the orange hand, every well-worn 1655 has a story etched into its aesthetic. That unique patina is part of the watch’s soul, a testament to decades of usage and the unstoppable march of time.
Inside the Case: Calibre 1575
Beneath its utilitarian exterior, the Explorer II 1655 houses Rolex’s calibre 1575 (or the date-feature variant 1575 GMT, depending on the exact period), a self-winding movement that builds on the brand’s proven 15xx series. Introduced in the late 1950s, the 15xx series movements are revered for their durability, reliability, and smooth operation. By the early 1970s, Rolex had refined the architecture enough to confidently deploy it in everything from Submariners to GMTs.
In the 1655, the big difference was the addition of a 24-hour wheel geared to that orange hand. Unlike the GMT-Master, which lets you independently adjust the 24-hour hand, the Explorer II’s 24-hour pointer is tied to the main hour hand—this watch wasn’t necessarily about tracking a second time zone but distinguishing day from night. The fact that it used a well-established movement adds to the watch’s practicality as a vintage piece today: the calibre 1575 is robust, and watchmakers skilled in vintage Rolex servicing can often handle it without too many headaches over parts or obscure designs.
The “Steve McQueen” Myth
One of the biggest bits of lore that surrounded the Explorer II 1655 for years was the claim that the “King of Cool,” Steve McQueen, wore one. It’s a sexy idea: the iconic action star, known for his rugged style and love of fast vehicles, rocking a 1655. Yet evidence suggests that McQueen actually wore a Submariner (reference 5512, to be exact), and there’s no photographic proof that he ever sported the Explorer II in real life. Still, the moniker “Steve McQueen Rolex” persisted in the vintage watch market, likely boosting the model’s desirability and mystique.
It’s perhaps ironic that the Explorer II 1655’s status soared in part thanks to a false claim. Then again, who better to represent the watch’s tough-as-nails persona than McQueen, even if only in spirit? The watch is rough, tumble, and unapologetically different—qualities that align well with McQueen’s rebellious aura.
Collectability and Market Appeal
Fast-forward to today, and the Rolex Explorer II 1655 is seen by many as an absolute fucking grail—no sugar-coating needed. Prices have shot up in the last decade, reflecting the watch’s legendary status among vintage Rolex aficionados. Part of what drives that is scarcity: while production lasted roughly until 1984, the Explorer II wasn’t initially as popular as some other Rolex models, meaning fewer were sold. Combine that with the typical ravages of time, lost original boxes and papers, and the prevalence of swapped parts or heavily polished cases, and you’ve got a perfect recipe for the watch being a tough find in pristine condition.
Another factor is that the 1655 is simply different. It exudes a vibe that sets it apart from the brand’s more mainstream icons. The dial’s busy layout—long minute hashes, large luminous markers, and the funky orange 24-hour hand—seems to break many of Rolex’s own design rules. That rebellious flair appeals to those who want a Rolex that’s not instantly recognised by every second person on the street. This is a watch for the connoisseur, the collector who craves something rare, historically relevant, and undeniably badass.
Why It’s a Grail
All told, the Rolex Explorer II 1655 is a watch that ticks every box on the “why we love vintage” list. History? Check—it came at the dawn of the 1970s, a time when bold designs were starting to flourish in the watch world. Technical innovation? Check—Rolex aimed to solve a real-world problem for explorers operating in perpetually dark environments. Rarity? Check—it was not a massive seller at first, ensuring it remains relatively scarce. Iconic design? Absolutely—no other Rolex looks quite like it. And to top it all off, the watch is comfortable, robust, and can still be worn every day if you’re brave enough to risk scuffing such a high-value collectible.
Then there’s the intangible magic. Owning a 1655 feels like holding a piece of that raw, adventure-driven era of Rolex history, before marketing hype and brand ubiquity overshadowed the tools themselves. When you strap on a 1655, you’re reminded that, once upon a time, people genuinely needed their watches to explore the uncharted corners of the Earth. It’s an unfiltered expression of toughness and purpose—and, let’s be honest, it just looks insanely cool. Even if Steve McQueen didn’t wear one, it’s the type of watch he would wear.
Conclusion
If you’re calling the Explorer II 1655 your “grail watch,” you’re not alone—and you’re justified in that label. It’s got the kind of story, design quirks, and unshakable identity that make a watch legendary. Whether it’s the bright orange 24-hour hand cutting a path across the dial, the fixed steel bezel etched with numbers that promise adventure, or the faint myth of Steve McQueen that still lingers in the collector psyche, the 1655 is the epitome of vintage Rolex allure.
In a sea of well-worn Submariners and perpetual Daytona hype, the Explorer II 1655 stands proudly as a reminder that Rolex once took risks with design and purpose. That fact alone cements its place in watchmaking lore. For those fortunate enough to own one—or even just to try it on the wrist—there’s a palpable sense of stepping back into an era of exploration, grit, and style that many modern watches just can’t replicate. It’s a truly special piece, one that earns every syllable of praise. If you’ve decided it’s your grail, then good on you—because few watches are as worthy of that title as the Rolex Explorer II reference 1655. Enjoy the pursuit, and when you finally clasp it around your wrist, take a moment to savour the achievement: you’ve landed a piece of Rolex history that’s every bit as extraordinary as its reputation suggests.