Cartier Santos Octagon Automatic 0907 25x31mm Circa 1980s

Cartier Santos Octagon Automatic 0907

Produced between the late 1970s and mid 1980s, the Cartier Santos Octagon Automatic 0907 represents one of the most distinctive evolutions of the Santos family. It combined the design codes of Louis Cartier’s original aviation wristwatch with the geometric experimentation Cartier embraced during this period. With its eight-sided case, integrated bracelet, automatic movement, and steel and gold construction, the 0907 stands as an important reference in Cartier’s transition from traditional jeweller to modern luxury watchmaker.

Origins of the Cartier Santos

The Cartier Santos is widely regarded as one of the first purpose-designed wristwatches in history. In 1904 Louis Cartier created a flat, square-cased watch for the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who needed a timepiece he could read while flying. The design became the Santos and entered commercial production by the 1910s.

Its defining principles were clarity, ergonomics, and industrial elegance. The screw-set bezel, exposed screws along the bracelet links, Roman numerals, and railroad minute track became enduring traits of the Santos design language for decades.

By the late 1970s Cartier began expanding the Santos line. The goal was to create modern interpretations that maintained the essential character of the original while adapting to new materials and movements. It was in this context that the Santos Octagon was introduced.

Development of the Santos Octagon

The Santos Octagon emerged during a period when Cartier experimented extensively with shapes. Alongside the Tank Must, the Ceinture, and the Cloche, the Octagon reflected the brand’s interest in geometry and architectural structure. The eight-sided bezel represented a departure from earlier Santos models yet kept the signature exposed screws, tying it directly to Cartier’s aviation roots.

The reference 0907 became one of the most recognisable versions in the Octagon family. Its steel and gold construction aligned with Cartier’s “Les Must” era approach, bringing a technical watchmaking foundation into harmony with jewellery-level finishing. The integration of an automatic movement also represented a shift. For much of the twentieth century Cartier relied on manual wind movements supplied by various Swiss partners. The introduction of automatic calibres in models like the 0907 signalled Cartier’s move toward more modern mechanical reliability.

Case and Design Characteristics

The Santos Octagon 0907 features an eight-sided stainless steel case topped with an 18k yellow gold bezel. The bezel is secured with eight visible screws, reflecting the industrial aesthetic introduced in 1904. The case surface alternates between polished and brushed finishes to create visual contrast.

Measurements vary slightly depending on production period, but most examples measure approximately 30mm to 32mm across the case, excluding the crown. This size reflects the design standards of the late 1970s and early 1980s, when dress watches tended toward more compact proportions.

The octagonal shape gives the watch a unique presence from the wrist. It softens the sharp lines of a traditional square Santos while still maintaining a strong architectural identity. The integrated lugs flow directly into the bracelet, maintaining continuity throughout the design.

The crown is fluted and set with Cartier’s signature blue cabochon. This detail appears across many Cartier references and reinforces the brand’s jewellery heritage. Despite the watch’s angular case, the cabochon crown provides a softer aesthetic element and remains one of the recognisable symbols of Cartier design.

Bracelet Construction

The integrated bracelet of the 0907 is constructed in stainless steel with 18k yellow gold screws set into each link. This combination became one of Cartier’s most identifiable design features during the late twentieth century. The alternating steel and gold elements create a unified visual aesthetic with the bezel.

The bracelet tapers toward the clasp, offering a comfortable and balanced fit. Each link is machined to articulate smoothly, reflecting Cartier’s emphasis on comfort. The folding clasp is signed and constructed to blend almost seamlessly with the bracelet, maintaining the watch’s continuous steel and gold theme.

The screws in the bracelet links are functional rather than decorative. They secure the bracelet components and can be removed individually when sizing the bracelet. This method of construction allowed Cartier to echo the utilitarian spirit of the original Santos while ensuring durability and ease of maintenance.

Dial Layout and Features

The dial of the Santos Octagon Automatic 0907 maintains the classic Cartier design formula. It typically features a silvered or cream lacquer base, printed Roman numerals, and a railroad minute track. The numerals follow Cartier’s traditional elongated serif style, which has remained largely unchanged from early twentieth century designs.

The hands are blued steel in the sword shape that Cartier uses across many of its watches. The deep blue colour is achieved through thermal treatment, providing both corrosion resistance and a striking contrast against the light dial.

The brand signature “CARTIER” appears below the twelve o’clock position. On many examples the word “SWISS” or “SWISS MADE” sits at the bottom of the minute track, depending on the production period. Some dials incorporate the Cartier “secret signature” hidden within one of the Roman numerals, an anti-counterfeiting measure that became more common in later years.

The date window is positioned at three o’clock. Cartier designed the aperture to maintain symmetry with the dial numerals, ensuring minimal disruption to the visual balance.

Movement: Automatic Calibre

The Santos Octagon 0907 houses an automatic Swiss movement. Depending on production period, Cartier fitted these models with calibres sourced from reliable Swiss manufacturers such as ETA. One of the commonly used movements in this reference range was the ETA 2671, a compact automatic calibre known for its stability and serviceability.

The ETA 2671 operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and typically delivers a power reserve of around 38 hours. As an automatic movement equipped with a bidirectional winding rotor, it offers convenience compared to earlier manual wind Cartier models. The calibre includes quickset date functionality and shock protection.

The movement reflects Cartier’s broader strategy of integrating high quality Swiss mechanisms into its jewellery-influenced watch designs. The goal was not to pursue extreme technical complexity but to provide robust, durable mechanisms that allowed the design to take centre stage. Serviceability and long-term reliability were prioritised, and the continued availability of ETA parts ensures that these watches remain maintainable decades after production.

FInal Thoughts

Wearing the Cartier Santos Octagon Automatic 0907 feels different from wearing most watches. Its proportions and eight-sided bezel immediately stand out, but not in a loud way. Instead, it carries a quiet confidence, the kind of design that reveals more the longer you spend time with it. The octagon shape catches the light in subtle ways that a square or round watch never quite does. It adds dimension without asking for attention.

There is also something unmistakably human about the way Cartier approaches design. Even though the Santos Octagon is grounded in geometry and clean lines, it still feels warm on the wrist. The cabochon crown adds a small touch of colour, the blued hands shift tone depending on the light, and the Roman numerals give a familiar sense of tradition. 

What makes the 0907 particularly engaging is the balance between its heritage and its originality. It belongs to the Santos family, one of the most historically significant wristwatches ever created, yet it breaks from the traditional square case. Wearing it feels like wearing a familiar idea expressed in a new way.

• Case & bracelet in good vintage condition, hairlines visible on case sides.
• Bracelet in good condition with hairlines visible.
• Case & bracelet unpolished.

Dial & hands very good condition.