Rolex Submariner 1680 “Red” Mark VI Dial

The Final Evolution of the Red Submariner

Produced from the late 1960s through the mid-1970s, the Rolex Submariner reference 1680 marked an important turning point in the evolution of Rolex’s professional diving watches. It was the first Submariner to incorporate a date display, permanently expanding the functionality of the model beyond pure dive timing. Among the earliest and most recognisable versions of the reference are the watches now known as the “Red Submariner,” distinguished by the word Submariner printed in red on the dial.

Within this group of early Submariner 1680 watches, several dial variations emerged over the course of production. These variations are typically classified by researchers as Mark I through Mark VI dials, each reflecting subtle differences in typography, printing layout, and dial manufacturing. The Mark VI dial represents the final evolution of the Red Submariner configuration, produced shortly before Rolex transitioned to the later all-white Submariner dial printing that would define the remainder of the reference’s production.

While the red text is the feature that immediately draws attention, the historical significance of the Red Submariner extends far beyond a single line of colour. The reference 1680 represents the moment when Rolex began adapting the Submariner for broader daily use while preserving the durability and legibility that had defined the watch since its introduction in the early 1950s.

Understanding the Mark VI dial therefore requires looking not only at the details of the dial itself, but also at the broader context in which the reference 1680 emerged.

The Evolution of the Submariner Before the Date Model

The Submariner was introduced in 1953 as Rolex’s response to the growing need for reliable underwater timing instruments. Early references such as the 6204 and 6205 established the fundamental architecture of the model. These watches featured rotating timing bezels, luminous dials designed for underwater visibility, and the waterproof Oyster case.

Through the late 1950s Rolex refined the design through references such as the 6538 and later the 5512 and 5513. These watches introduced crown guards and improved water resistance, reflecting the technical demands placed on diving watches during this period.

By the early 1960s the Submariner had become widely used by professional divers, military personnel, and underwater engineers. The watch was designed as a tool first and foremost, with clarity of information and mechanical reliability taking priority over decorative design.

The reference 5513 became one of the longest running Submariner models, offering a simple time-only display that emphasised legibility and robustness. However, as the 1960s progressed, consumer expectations for wristwatches began to evolve. Many owners wanted watches that could serve both professional and everyday roles.

The introduction of a date display on the Submariner therefore represented a logical step in the model’s development.

The Arrival of the Submariner Date

Rolex introduced the Submariner reference 1680 in approximately 1967. This reference was the first to incorporate a date aperture at three o’clock, accompanied by Rolex’s Cyclops magnification lens positioned on the crystal.

Adding the date required careful consideration of dial layout. The Submariner’s design had always prioritised legibility, particularly underwater where visibility could be limited. Rolex preserved this clarity by maintaining the large luminous hour markers and balanced arrangement of hands.

Although the date display introduced a new complication, the core purpose of the Submariner remained unchanged. The rotating bezel continued to allow divers to measure elapsed time during a dive, while the luminous dial ensured readability in low light conditions.

Early production models of the 1680 featured the distinctive red “Submariner” text beneath the depth rating on the dial. This detail gave rise to the now widely used nickname “Red Submariner.”

Over time the dial printing changed slightly across production runs, eventually leading to the classification of different dial variations.

Understanding the Mark VI Dial

The Mark VI dial represents the final configuration of the Red Submariner dial before Rolex transitioned to the later white-text Submariner dial. While the overall layout remains consistent with earlier versions, there are subtle differences in typography and text spacing that distinguish it from previous dial executions.

Researchers and historians studying the reference 1680 have identified several dial types across the production period. These variations typically involve small adjustments to the shape of letters, the placement of the coronet, and the spacing of dial text.

The Mark VI dial generally features:

• White printed depth rating
• The red “Submariner” text beneath the depth rating
• Tritium luminous plots marked by “T Swiss T” at the base of the dial
• Clean typography reflecting the later production phase of the Red Submariner

Because the Mark VI dial appeared toward the end of the Red Submariner production period, it represents the final stage of this distinctive design.

The transition from red text to white text likely reflected manufacturing simplification rather than a deliberate aesthetic decision. Rolex historically made incremental changes to its watches as production methods evolved, and dial printing was one area where such adjustments occurred.

Case Construction and Oyster Architecture

The Submariner 1680 retained the proven Oyster case architecture that had defined Rolex diving watches for decades. The stainless steel case measures approximately 40mm in diameter, a size that remains the standard for the Submariner today.

The Oyster case consists of three primary components: the screw-down caseback, the monobloc middle case, and the screw-down crown. Together these elements create a sealed environment that protects the movement from moisture and pressure.

Crown guards extend from the case to shield the crown from accidental impact. This feature had been introduced in earlier Submariner references and became a defining element of the watch’s profile.

The rotating bezel is fitted with an aluminium insert marked with minute graduations. This bezel rotates unidirectionally, allowing divers to track elapsed dive time safely.

The crystal used on the 1680 is acrylic rather than sapphire. Acrylic crystals were widely used during this era because they were resistant to shattering under pressure. The Cyclops lens integrated into the crystal magnifies the date display to improve readability.

Together these components allowed the Submariner 1680 to achieve a water resistance rating of 200 metres, making it suitable for professional diving environments.

The Calibre 1575 Movement

Powering the Submariner 1680 is the Rolex calibre 1575, a movement derived from the earlier calibre 1570 used in many Rolex models during the 1960s and 1970s.

The calibre 1575 operates at 19,800 vibrations per hour and incorporates Rolex’s free-sprung balance system regulated with Microstella screws. This design allows precise adjustment while maintaining long-term stability.

The automatic winding system uses a bidirectional rotor that winds the mainspring as the watch is worn. This ensures that the watch remains powered throughout daily activity.

The date complication is integrated directly into the movement and advances automatically at midnight. Unlike later Rolex movements, the calibre 1575 does not include a quick-set date function. Adjusting the date requires rotating the hands through successive 24-hour cycles.

Despite this limitation, the movement is widely regarded as one of Rolex’s most reliable mechanical calibres. Many examples continue to perform accurately decades after their manufacture.

Dial Materials and Ageing Characteristics

The dials used on the Submariner 1680 were constructed using lacquered surfaces with applied luminous hour markers. The luminous material used during this period was tritium, a radioactive compound that allowed the dial to glow in darkness.

Over time tritium gradually loses its luminosity and develops a warm colour tone. This ageing process can shift the luminous plots from bright white to cream or yellow shades.

The ageing of the dial and hands often occurs together, creating a balanced appearance where the luminous elements share a similar tone.

Because the dial printing itself is stable, the red “Submariner” text typically remains clear even after decades of use. This combination of ageing lume and stable printing contributes to the distinctive character seen in vintage Red Submariner watches.

Wearing Experience and Proportions

Despite its origins as a professional diving instrument, the Submariner 1680 wears comfortably in everyday situations. The 40mm case diameter provides presence on the wrist without feeling oversized.

The acrylic crystal adds a distinctive visual softness. When viewed from an angle, the edge of the crystal slightly distorts the dial, creating a gentle transition between the dial and bezel.

The Oyster bracelet typically paired with the 1680 uses a three-link design that emphasises durability and stability. The bracelet integrates smoothly with the case and balances the weight of the watch.

These proportions allow the watch to remain versatile. It can be worn in professional settings, outdoor environments, or casual situations without appearing out of place.

The Red Submariner in Historical Context

The Submariner reference 1680 occupies a unique position in the broader history of Rolex diving watches. It represents the moment when the Submariner began to transition from a specialised diving tool into a watch suitable for everyday wear.

The introduction of the date complication reflected changing expectations among watch buyers during the late 1960s and early 1970s. While professional divers continued to rely on the Submariner for underwater timing, many owners wore the watch as their daily wristwatch.

The Red Submariner therefore bridges two eras of the Submariner’s development. It preserves the essential functionality of earlier references while introducing features that broadened its usability.

When Rolex eventually transitioned to white Submariner dial printing later in the production of the 1680, the watch continued to evolve. However, the Red Submariner period remains a distinct chapter within the history of the model.

Final Thoughts

The Rolex Submariner 1680 “Red” with a Mark VI dial represents the final stage in the evolution of one of Rolex’s most distinctive dial designs. While earlier dial variations capture the earliest years of the reference, the Mark VI dial marks the closing chapter of the Red Submariner era.

Beyond the red text itself, the reference reflects Rolex’s careful approach to watch development. Rather than redesigning the Submariner entirely, the company integrated a practical date complication while preserving the robust architecture that had already proven successful.

With its balanced proportions, durable Oyster case, reliable calibre 1575 movement, and distinctive dial configuration, the Submariner 1680 remains an important part of the Submariner lineage.

More than half a century after its introduction, the watch continues to illustrate the principles that guided Rolex during the twentieth century: clarity, durability, and incremental refinement.

• Case is in very good vintage condition. 
• Bracelet 93150 oyster is in good condition.

• Dial and hands are in very good condition.
• Original MK6 tritium dial