Cartier Roadster 39mm 3312 2000s

Cartier Roadster 3312: A Distinctive Take on Sport and Style

Released during the early 2000s, the Roadster line brought a sense of kinetic motion and sporty flamboyance to Cartier’s traditionally refined and architectural aesthetic. It was bold but elegant, assertive without being brash. Today, the reference 3312—one of the key automatic models in the Roadster range—serves as a reminder of that brief, intriguing era when Cartier was willing to challenge convention and appeal to a different kind of collector.

The Roadster’s Origins

The Cartier Roadster made its debut in 2001. At the time, the watch world was gripped by a growing interest in oversized cases, bold designs, and a more relaxed approach to luxury. Cartier, typically known for its classical icons like the Tank and Santos, sought to respond with something more dynamic. The Roadster was the answer: an automotive-inspired timepiece that married Cartier’s watchmaking tradition with the adrenaline of vintage sports cars.

Its inspiration was loosely based on the aerodynamic forms of 1950s and 1960s roadsters—curvaceous fenders, chrome detailing, and speedometer-style dials. But this wasn’t a direct homage in the way a Heuer Carrera mimicked dashboard clocks. Instead, the Roadster evoked the feel of motoring culture without copying it literally.

Cartier’s take on this sportier silhouette was unmistakably their own. The tonneau-shaped case, the fluted crown that resembled a car’s radiator cap, and the deeply curved lugs created a silhouette that was instantly recognisable. It stood apart in a market flooded with round divers and angular chronographs. And as the early 2000s evolved, the Roadster became a cornerstone of Cartier’s sporty identity alongside the Pasha and Santos 100.

Design of the Reference 3312

The reference 3312 was one of the automatic variants of the Roadster, housed in a 39mm tonneau case crafted in stainless steel. Though the case width sounds moderate by today’s standards, the watch wears larger due to its broad lugs and expansive dial opening. Its distinctive shape—a blend of cushion and barrel—allows it to feel both vintage and contemporary depending on the strap and setting.

A defining feature of the 3312 is its white dial, punctuated by large Roman numerals and this one with no date magnifier at 3 o’clock.

The sword hands, railroad minute track, and Cartier signature at 7 o’clock lend a classical structure to an otherwise playful design. The case flows seamlessly into the bracelet or leather strap, which was easily swappable thanks to Cartier’s early adoption of a quick-release mechanism. This made the Roadster a rare hybrid at the time—sporty enough for steel, dressy enough for leather.

Under the Hood: Movement and Functionality

Powering the Roadster 3312 is the Cartier Calibre 3110, based on the ETA 2892-A2. This movement is well-known in the industry for its slim profile, reliable timekeeping, and ease of servicing. It beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides around 42 hours of power reserve. For a watch focused more on aesthetic flair than mechanical innovation, the choice of the ETA 2892 was a practical one—it kept the case profile refined while ensuring robust everyday performance.

The screw-down crown and solid caseback gave the Roadster modest water resistance (typically rated at 100 metres), reinforcing its sporty aspirations. And while it never sought to compete with dive watches or racing chronographs in technical terms, it delivered more than enough resilience for daily wear.

Roadster Chronology and Evolution

During its run, the Roadster family expanded to include chronographs, GMTs, and even a lady’s version. Models were offered in various materials—steel, gold, two-tone, and black DLC. The GMT model added an additional time zone complication with a secondary hour hand and 24-hour markings, while the chronograph brought the expected pushers and sub-dials to the otherwise clean case design.

But it’s the time-only models like the 3312 that best captured the essence of the Roadster. They weren’t overburdened with features. They let the shape, dial, and detailing speak for themselves.

Production continued until around 2012, at which point Cartier quietly discontinued the Roadster line. No official reason was given, but the shift back toward more conservative and classically proportioned watches likely played a role. The watch world had begun to swing back from oversized, expressive designs to thinner, more restrained pieces—something Cartier was well positioned to deliver with its heritage lines.

The Roadster Today

Although the Roadster may have fallen out of Cartier’s catalogue, it hasn’t disappeared from the collecting landscape. On the contrary, interest in the model has steadily increased over the past few years, particularly among buyers seeking something different from the usual suspects. The reference 3312 is often favoured for its clean proportions, balanced dial layout, and versatility on both bracelet and strap.

It also represents a rare moment in Cartier’s modern history when the maison let its imagination run a little freer. The Roadster wasn’t trying to blend in—it was meant to stand out. It had the swagger of a grand tourer, the detail of a tailored suit, and the backing of one of watchmaking’s most respected names.

In a sea of round watches, the Roadster’s tonneau case offers something visually distinct. And unlike many of its contemporaries, the Roadster’s design feels less like a product of trend and more like an intentional experiment in hybrid form language—something few brands have attempted with this much success.

Wearing the Roadster 3312

On the wrist, the Cartier Roadster 3312 offers a unique mix of presence and elegance. Its shape hugs the wrist, while the wide dial opening gives it more impact than the dimensions suggest. The quick-change strap system encourages versatility, letting you switch between the original steel bracelet, leather, or even rubber if desired. It transitions easily between business attire and weekend wear.

Though bold, it isn’t flashy. The Roman numerals and blued hands keep the dial grounded in classic Cartier styling, while the curved case and magnifier crystal remind you that this is a watch designed to move. There’s a kinetic tension in its curves—like a parked sports car, ready to go.

Why the Roadster Still Matters

For all its departure from Cartier tradition, the Roadster 3312 remains anchored in the brand’s core philosophy: elegance in design, attention to detail, and enduring appeal. While it may not carry the icon status of the Tank or Santos, it’s all the more intriguing for that. It was never ubiquitous. It never tried to be timeless. And for many collectors, that’s exactly the appeal.

In an age where many brands look to heritage reissues to drive sales, the Roadster is a reminder that Cartier doesn’t always need to look backward. When they let design lead, the results can be just as compelling—even if they only last for a decade.

Final Thoughts

The Cartier Roadster 3312 is a watch that doesn’t follow the rules. It blends sport and sophistication, heritage and modernity, with more confidence than most luxury watches from its era. Whether you’re drawn to its automotive cues, its bold case shape, or its place in Cartier’s adventurous early-2000s chapter, the Roadster delivers something rare: character.

At Crown Vintage, we believe models like the 3312 deserve a second look—not just as a quirky Cartier offshoot, but as a thoughtfully designed, mechanically reliable, and visually distinctive timepiece that reflects a brand unafraid to step off the beaten path. If you’re after a watch that combines elegance with edge, the Roadster might just be your kind of ride.

Case in great condition. Light hairlines visible on case. Cartier rubber bracelet in excellent condition.

Dial and hands are flawless.