Cartier Tank Vermeil Ref 1613 | 1997 w/ Papers

Cartier Tank Vermeil Ref. 1613 (1997): A Must-Have From the Must de Cartier Era

Introduction: Everyday Elegance

The Cartier Tank needs little introduction. Since its debut in 1917, the design has remained virtually unchanged—an enduring shape in a world constantly shifting around it. One of the most recognisable silhouettes in watchmaking history, the Tank was born out of Louis Cartier’s desire to create a modern timepiece that echoed the geometry of the Renault tanks used in World War I. Over a century later, it remains a pillar of Cartier’s design language.

Among the many Tank variants to have graced wrists over the decades, the Tank Vermeil Ref. 1613, produced in the 1990s as part of the Must de Cartier collection, offers a compelling intersection of elegance, accessibility, and period charm. Released in 1997, this model exemplifies what made the Must de Cartier line so successful: classic Cartier design sensibilities in a format more approachable than their solid gold or mechanical counterparts.

With a sterling silver base, thick gold vermeil coating, clean quartz movement, and timeless Roman numeral dial, the Ref. 1613 remains one of the most refined and wearable expressions of 1990s Cartier style.

Must de Cartier: Luxury Made Democratic

The Must de Cartier line was a bold step for a house known primarily for high jewellery and fine watchmaking. In the mid-1970s, facing the quartz crisis and economic challenges, Cartier needed a new way to connect with emerging generations of luxury consumers. With the Must de Cartier line, it offered a reimagining of its own legacy—making luxury items accessible to a wider audience without compromising on design.

Vermeil—a method of bonding gold onto sterling silver—was central to this approach. While most luxury watches of the time relied on solid gold or steel, Cartier used this hybrid construction to craft watches that retained the appearance and warmth of gold, with significantly lower production costs. The strategy paid off: by the 1980s and 1990s, the Must de Cartier watches, especially the Tanks, were being worn by students, artists, and professionals alike—many of them donning their first Cartier.

Case and Dimensions: The Vermeil Touch

The Cartier Tank Vermeil Ref. 1613 features a rectangular case crafted in 925 sterling silver, plated with a thick layer of 18k gold vermeil. Unlike more common gold-plated watches, the vermeil process ensures better durability and colour stability. The result is a case that offers the visual allure of yellow gold at a fraction of the price.

In terms of proportions, the case measures approximately 23mm wide by 28mm long, with a slim profile that sits flat and discreetly on the wrist. Cartier has always designed its watches with elegance in mind rather than dominance, and this reference exemplifies that philosophy. It is equally at home on a formal leather strap or something more casual and colourful.

Movement: Quartz Precision

Inside the Tank Vermeil Ref. 1613 is a Cartier quartz movement, likely based on a reliable ETA base calibre. While quartz watches don’t inspire the same awe as mechanical ones among purists, they were perfectly in keeping with the goals of the Must de Cartier line: elegance and accessibility combined with reliability and ease of ownership.

This movement beats quietly and accurately, requiring nothing more than periodic battery changes. Its thinness also helps keep the overall profile of the watch incredibly sleek—something mechanical movements, especially automatic ones, would have struggled to achieve in this form factor during the era.

For many owners in the late 1990s, quartz was not a compromise but a convenience. It allowed the Tank to become an everyday companion rather than a precious object to be reserved for special occasions.

Cultural and Design Relevance

The Tank’s importance in 20th-century design can’t be overstated. It’s one of the few watches that is immediately recognisable from across a room. It doesn’t depend on technical achievements or case size—it’s pure design.

By the late 1990s, the Must de Cartier Tank had established itself as a gateway into Cartier ownership. Worn by a generation that prized understatement over ostentation, the 1613 represents a moment in time when luxury didn’t mean excess—it meant taste. The watch sits squarely at the crossroads of mid-century formality and the minimalism that would define the early 2000s.

Even today, it feels remarkably current. Where many 1990s watches now appear bulky or overdesigned, the 1613 remains timeless—lean, architectural, and easy to wear. In an era where Cartier is reissuing many of its Must de Cartier designs and leaning heavily into archival cues, the original Tank Vermeil models are enjoying a well-earned resurgence of interest.

Servicing and Care

One of the major benefits of owning a quartz Tank like the 1613 is ease of maintenance. Battery changes can be handled by any competent watchmaker, and the movement itself, if ever needing replacement, is straightforward. More important is preserving the vermeil case, which can be susceptible to over-polishing. Gentle cleaning and careful handling go a long way.

Cartier boutiques and specialist workshops can service these watches, but given their construction and movement, many collectors choose independent specialists with experience in vintage Cartier.

Final Thoughts

The Cartier Tank Vermeil Ref. 1613 from 1997 is a time capsule from an era when luxury meant good taste and enduring design—not just price tags and prestige. It represents one of the most elegant executions of the Must de Cartier concept: a beautifully made, design-focused timepiece that remained accessible without being diluted.

As Cartier continues to explore its archives and reintroduce pieces inspired by the Must era, interest in original references like the 1613 will only grow. With its iconic shape, refined detailing, and quartz reliability, it remains one of the smartest entry points into the world of vintage Cartier.

Case in great condition, light hairlines visible around case, light oxidisation of gold plating visible. Strap in good condition. 

• Flawless dial and hands.