Omega Speedmaster Professional 3572.50: Hesalite Soul, Sapphire Vision

Introduction

The Omega Speedmaster Professional 3572.50 occupies a distinct space in the evolution of the Moonwatch. Produced primarily through the 1990s into the early 2000s, this reference offered a hybrid configuration that appealed to purists and pragmatists alike: a traditional hesalite crystal on the front and a sapphire display caseback revealing the movement within. This combination allowed wearers to experience the charm of the classic Speedmaster on the wrist while admiring the calibre 1863 through the back—a movement virtually identical to the venerable 1861, but with enhanced finishing.

With its blend of legacy design, mechanical reliability, and visual intrigue, the 3572.50 remains one of the more compelling and underappreciated Speedmaster references. It balances modern production quality with vintage lineage in a way few other Moonwatch models manage.

The Speedmaster Lineage: Context for the 3572.50

To understand the significance of the 3572.50, it’s essential to appreciate the Speedmaster’s enduring legacy. Originally launched in 1957 as a motorsport chronograph (ref. CK2915), the Speedmaster’s purpose pivoted in the 1960s when it was flight-qualified by NASA and subsequently worn by astronauts during the Apollo missions, including the Moon landing in 1969.

Omega’s Moonwatch heritage is inextricably tied to the Speedmaster Professional—manually wound, with a black dial, and a hesalite (acrylic) crystal. Over the years, Omega has iterated on this formula without abandoning its essence. The 3572.50, introduced in the 1990s, was a clear example of that delicate balance.

Reference Overview

The Omega Speedmaster Professional 3572.50 combines traditional Speedmaster aesthetics with a modern display caseback. Its key specifications include:

• Case Diameter: 42mm
• Case Material: Stainless steel
• Crystal (front): Hesalite
• Crystal (back): Sapphire display back
• Movement: Calibre 1863 manual-wind chronograph
• Lug Width: 20mm
• Bracelet: Stainless steel, typically the 1498/840 or later 1499/842
• Water Resistance: 50m

The model was effectively a bridge between the standard Moonwatch (ref. 3570.50) and the more luxurious 3592.50 and later 3573.50 references, which used sapphire on both sides.

Case Design and Construction

The 3572.50 retains the classic asymmetrical case introduced with the Speedmaster 105.012 in the mid-1960s. The case measures 42mm in diameter with twisted lyre lugs and a prominent tachymeter bezel. It sits at approximately 14mm in thickness, largely due to the domed hesalite crystal and manually wound movement architecture.

The right side of the case features the familiar pump pushers for chronograph actuation and an unsigned crown. Despite its functional 50m water resistance rating, this watch was never intended for swimming or diving. It remains a terrestrial tool watch, just as its predecessors were designed to be.

Case finishing is a blend of satin brushing on the lugs and polished accents along the case flanks, offering visual contrast and depth. The drilled lugs accommodate traditional spring bars, making strap changes straightforward.

Dial and Hands

The dial layout is classic Speedmaster Professional. Matte black with white print, it features an outer minute track and three recessed subdials: 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 12-hour totaliser at 6 o’clock, and running seconds at 9 o’clock. The hour markers and hands are filled with Super-LumiNova on later versions, replacing the earlier tritium compound phased out in the late 1990s.

Notably, tritium dials are often marked with “T SWISS MADE T” at the base, whereas Super-LumiNova versions simply read “SWISS MADE.” Both variants exist under the 3572.50 reference, depending on production year.

The white baton hands for the hours and minutes, central chronograph seconds hand, and matching white subdial hands create high legibility—a cornerstone of the Speedmaster’s design since the 1960s.

Bezel

The watch is fitted with a fixed black aluminium tachymeter bezel, bearing the “Dot Next to 90” (DNN) configuration standard in post-1970 Speedmasters. The tachymeter scale, a defining feature of the Speedmaster since its inception, remains unchanged in design and function—allowing the wearer to calculate speed based on elapsed time over a known distance.

The aluminium insert is vulnerable to wear and fade, which over time can add vintage charm. Some examples of the 3572.50 may show signs of ageing on the bezel, adding to their appeal as everyday-worn Moonwatches.

Movement: Calibre 1863

What separates the 3572.50 from the standard 3570.50 is the visible calibre 1863, a slightly enhanced version of the 1861. Mechanically identical, both are based on the Lemania 1873 movement, but the 1863 receives a more refined finish to better suit its display caseback.

The movement features:

• Manual winding
• 21,600 vibrations per hour
• 48-hour power reserve
• 18 jewels
• Rhodium-plated bridges with Geneva stripes and perlage decoration

Although not certified chronometer-grade, the 1863 is known for its robustness, reliability, and ease of servicing—important traits for a watch born from tool-watch roots. The cam-actuated chronograph mechanism is simpler than the column wheel of earlier calibres (like the 321), but it remains highly functional and serviceable.

The see-through caseback offers a rare opportunity in the Moonwatch family to admire the inner workings of the movement—something typically hidden behind the solid caseback of the 3570.50 or earlier references.

Hesalite vs. Sapphire: Why the Mix?

One of the most interesting aspects of the 3572.50 is Omega’s decision to use hesalite crystal on the front and sapphire on the back. This configuration is unique within the Speedmaster Professional range.

Hesalite, a synthetic acrylic crystal, has long been favoured by NASA due to its shatter-resistant properties. In the vacuum of space, a shattered crystal could cause floating debris dangerous to sensitive instruments. Omega retained this material for all Moon-qualified Speedmasters. Hesalite also has a soft, warm aesthetic, subtly distorting light reflections and giving the dial a vintage glow that sapphire lacks.

Sapphire, on the other hand, is used on the caseback of the 3572.50, allowing an unobstructed view of the calibre 1863’s decorated bridges. It is far more scratch-resistant than hesalite and provides long-term clarity, making it ideal for a display back.

This pairing makes the 3572.50 particularly attractive—it preserves the authentic Moonwatch appearance from the front while offering a contemporary twist at the rear.

Bracelet Options

The 3572.50 was typically sold on stainless steel bracelets, including the 1498/840 and later 1499/842 variations. Both featured solid end links and push-button folding clasps. These bracelets strike a balance between comfort and durability, with a taper from 20mm at the lugs to approximately 16mm at the clasp.

The watch’s 20mm lug width also lends itself well to strap changes, and the 3572.50 pairs effortlessly with leather, nylon, or vintage-style flat-link alternatives.

Caseback Design

The display caseback is a major visual highlight. Surrounding the sapphire crystal is an engraved steel ring bearing the inscription:

“THE FIRST WATCH WORN ON THE MOON”

“FLIGHT-QUALIFIED BY NASA FOR ALL MANNED SPACE MISSIONS”

This engraving mirrors the solid casebacks of traditional Moonwatch references. However, instead of the embossed hippocampus medallion, the 3572.50 lets the movement take centre stage.

This blend of modern transparency and historical text is another reason why this reference has earned respect as a transition point between legacy and luxury.

Production Timeline

The Omega Speedmaster Professional 3572.50 was produced from the mid-1990s until the early 2000s. It was eventually replaced by the 3573.50, which featured sapphire on both sides—front and back. That later reference dropped hesalite entirely, which marked a move toward more modern, luxury-oriented Moonwatch interpretations.

As such, the 3572.50 is often viewed as a transitional piece, marrying old-school authenticity with new-era transparency.

Tritium vs. Super-LumiNova Dials

One noteworthy detail among 3572.50 examples is the variation in lume material. Earlier models feature tritium lume, which ages over time and develops a yellow or custard-coloured patina. These are generally marked with “T SWISS MADE T” at 6 o’clock.

Later models use Super-LumiNova, which glows brighter and remains white over time. These dials are marked simply with “SWISS MADE.”

Both variants are considered correct, and some buyers may have a preference depending on whether they favour patina or modern visibility. The tritium versions are often slightly more desirable among those who value vintage cues.

Final Thoughts

The Omega Speedmaster Professional 3572.50 offers a compelling combination of heritage and functionality. By preserving the traditional hesalite crystal on the front and introducing a sapphire caseback, Omega allowed wearers to enjoy the full spectrum of the Moonwatch experience—historical fidelity on the wrist, and modern appreciation under the caseback.

It holds particular appeal for those who value the legacy of the Speedmaster but also wish to engage more directly with the movement that powers it. The calibre 1863 is a proven engine with just enough visual flair to reward its display.

Positioned between the tool-watch roots of the 3570.50 and the luxury polish of the 3573.50, the 3572.50 serves as a fascinating mid-point in the Speedmaster’s long-running history. Its production run was relatively short, and it remains a slightly overlooked reference—yet one that captures the spirit of the Moonwatch while offering a clear view into its mechanical heart.

Whether worn daily or admired for its historical nuance, the 3572.50 continues to hold its ground as one of the most quietly versatile Speedmasters of its era.

• Case & bracelet in good condition, hairlines visible.
• Bracelet in good condition, little to no stretch, hairlines visible. 

Dial & hands excellent.