Rolex Datejust 1601 Dauphine Hands from 1963

Introduction to the Datejust Line

The Rolex Datejust stands as one of the most recognisable and enduring wristwatch designs ever produced. Introduced in 1945 to commemorate Rolex’s 40th anniversary, the Datejust was the first self-winding chronometer wristwatch to display the date in a window at 3 o’clock. Since then, it has served as the backbone of Rolex’s catalogue, worn by statesmen, artists, and professionals alike. But beyond its classic design and pioneering function, the Datejust also reflects subtle shifts in style and technology across decades.

By the mid-1960s, the model had already seen a number of dial configurations, case metals, bezel types, and bracelet pairings. One of the more visually distinctive versions from this era features sharp dauphine hands—faceted and angular, with a touch more formality than the later baton hands that would become standard.

Case and Bezel

The case of this reference measures 36mm in diameter and is crafted in stainless steel, fitted with a fluted bezel in white gold. The proportions are classic, and the sharp lug profile of this generation offers a solid presence on the wrist without appearing bulky. The blend of steel and white gold gives the watch a subtle two-tone effect that remains elegant and restrained.

Rolex cases from this era were produced with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces. When well-preserved, the contrast between these finishes is still evident and enhances the visual structure of the watch. The screw-down caseback and crown provide Oyster water resistance, a hallmark feature of Rolex’s sportier offerings as well as its dressier lines. However, as with any watch of this age, it’s not recommended for use in water, regardless of its original rating.

Dial Details

Dials produced in the 1960s for the Datejust reference 1601 vary considerably, but this particular example features a silver sunburst dial that plays beautifully with light. The warmth of the aged tritium lume plots at each hour marker creates a soft contrast against the metallic sheen of the dial surface.

What truly elevates this piece is its set of dauphine hands—tapered and faceted, they reflect light with precision and geometry. Unlike the more utilitarian stick hands seen later, these add a touch of mid-century refinement and mark it as a watch made during a transitional design period. The hands are matched by applied baton hour markers, each with its own lume plot at the edge.

The even patina forming on the lume speaks to the passage of time and remains intact, without excessive darkening or degradation.

Movement

Inside beats the Rolex calibre 1560, one of the brand’s most respected automatic movements. The 1570 was used across a variety of Rolex sport and dress references throughout the 1960s and 1970s. It runs at 19,800 vibrations per hour and features hacking seconds—an upgrade introduced partway through the 1570’s life cycle.

Despite lacking a quickset date function, the movement is smooth to operate and impressively accurate for its time. Its rotor is bi-directional, contributing to efficient winding, and its architecture has made it a favourite of watchmakers when it comes to serviceability and durability.

Bracelet

Period-correct examples are typically found on a Jubilee bracelet, also in stainless steel. The Jubilee’s five-link construction offers flexibility and a dressier appearance than the Oyster bracelet, while the brushed outer and polished inner links mirror the finishing on the case.

Depending on the use and servicing history, bracelets from this era may show varying degrees of stretch, but the overall aesthetic complements the case perfectly. End links are stamped appropriately for the time, and clasp codes can help narrow down the production period further.

Design Language of the Era

Mid-60s Datejusts bridge the gap between Rolex’s early post-war experimentation and the more modern aesthetic that would take hold in the 1970s. The presence of dauphine hands reflects that transitional moment—rooted in the 1950s design lexicon but still very much at home in the refined, slim profile of the Datejust case.

The dial layout is balanced and clean. The cyclops lens over the date at 3 o’clock was already a signature feature by this point, magnifying the date disc and giving the dial a recognisable asymmetry. Even with the additional layer of functionality, the watch retains excellent legibility and proportion.

Wearing Experience

Despite being nearly six decades old, this reference feels incredibly modern on the wrist. Its 36mm case may be modest by today’s standards, but the proportions, combined with the fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet, create a presence that’s anything but small. The thinness of the case and the way the lugs curve downward allow the watch to sit snugly on the wrist, making it an easy all-day wear.

The dauphine hands catch the light from multiple angles, shifting in tone from polished steel to dark grey depending on lighting. It’s this constant play of reflection and contrast that makes the watch feel alive—an ever-changing experience, especially under natural light.

Final Thoughts

The 1601 with dauphine hands captures a brief but distinctive period in Rolex design. It stands apart from later baton-handled references while still embodying everything that makes the Datejust timeless—elegant proportions, technical quality, and everyday functionality. The pairing of a silver dial with angular hands adds a sharpness that reflects mid-century aesthetics without feeling dated.

This reference reminds us that Rolex’s most enduring models weren’t born fully formed—they evolved, sometimes subtly, with the times. The result is a piece of Rolex history that remains refined, versatile, and mechanically sound, all wrapped in a design that continues to resonate decades later.

Case in great vintage condition. Sharp lugs. Hairlines visible on both sides of the case. Bracelet has some stretch in keeping with its age. Hairlines visible on bracelet.

Dial and hands in great condition. Light oxidation on hands. Warm patina on lume plots.