Rolex Datejust 69173 Blue Vignette Dial 26MM 1996

The Rolex Datejust 69173 Blue Vignette Dial (26 mm, 1996)

The Rolex Datejust 69173 with a blue vignette dial, produced circa 1996, is a refined example of Rolex’s small-case Datejust line, blending classic styling with subtle flair. In this article I explore its historical significance, design details, technical features, variants, and what makes the 69173 Blue Vignette stand out among Rolex’s 26 mm offerings.

Origins & Place in the Datejust Line

The Rolex Datejust concept dates back to 1945, when Rolex introduced their first self-winding, chronometer-certified wristwatch featuring a date display that “jumped” at midnight.  Over time, Rolex expanded the Datejust line into multiple sizes, materials, and dial options, making it one of the brand’s most versatile and long-running families.  

By the 1990s, the “Lady/Datejust 26 mm” references were well established, aimed primarily at those wanting a Rolex in a smaller, elegant size. In that era, the 26 mm models offered a refined alternative to larger sport models, often produced as two-tone (steel + gold) combinations, with fluted bezels or diamond indices. The 69173 was one of Rolex’s standard two-tone ladies’ Datejust references in the mid-1990s.

In the broader sweep of the Datejust’s history, the 69173 occupies a position of quiet sophistication—a timepiece that leans more toward dress-watch elegance than bold sport utility. Its smaller size, elegant proportions, and variety of dials underscore Rolex’s commitment to offering a “Datejust for everyone,” including those preferring more delicate dimensions.

Reference 69173: Basics & Case

The reference 69173 is part of the Datejust 26 mm range, typically in two-tone “Rolesor” configuration (stainless steel case with 18k yellow gold accents). Its case measures 26 millimetres in diameter (excluding crown) and carries the classic Oyster architecture, including a screw-down crown and caseback, ensuring Rolex’s expected water resistance.  

The bezel is fluted in 18k yellow gold—a hallmark design feature of many Datejusts that adds visual texture and a sense of refinement. The fluted bezel also serves a functional sealing role in the Rolex Oyster system.  

Because the 69173 is a more classic, non-sport variant, its design emphasizes elegance over robust tool aesthetics. Polished and brushed surfaces are used judiciously, and the lines are kept slim and understated.

The Blue Vignette Dial

What gives this particular 69173 model its distinctiveness is the blue vignette dial—a gradient dial effect that transitions from a brighter blue in the center to a deeper, darker (almost black) shade toward the edges. The “vignette” or radial shading imbues the dial with depth, visual intrigue, and a subtle play of light.

This blue dial is factory original (not typically an aftermarket modification) in many examples, often marketed or described as “factory blue vignette diamond dial.”  The dial often features diamond hour markers (small diamonds set in gold surrounds) rather than plain baton indices.  

At 3 o’clock there is the date aperture, equipped with Rolex’s signature Cyclops magnifier (a magnifying lens on the crystal) to enlarge the date display for better readability.  

The hands are typically yellow-gold baton hands (hour and minute), paired with a slim seconds hand. The Rolex crown logo sits below 12 o’clock, with the usual text “Oyster Perpetual Datejust / Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” printed on the lower half of the dial.  

The result is a dial that is at once elegant, understated, and rich in character. The vignette effect invites movement and reflection—the dial changes tone as the angle and light shift.

Movement & Technical Features

Inside the 69173 of that era is a Rolex automatic calibre. Many 26 mm Datejust models of the 1990s used calibres such as the Calibre 2135—a compact, reliable, and well-proven movement designed for smaller watches. (Note: not all references may use exactly the same iteration, but calibre 2135 is common in small Rolex automatic ladies’ models of that period.)

The movement offers hour, minute, seconds, and date functions. It is a certified chronometer, meaning it meets strict accuracy standards. The automatic rotor winds the movement as the wearer moves, though manual winding via the crown is also possible.

Rolex designs these movements to be robust, low-maintenance (within reason), and long-lasting when serviced properly. As with all mechanical watches, periodic servicing is advisable to maintain precision and mechanical integrity.

The sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the Cyclops lens is integrated into the crystal rather than glued on—ensuring a clean, flush installation. The screw-down crown and caseback help the watch achieve decent water resistance (though over decades, gaskets may age and require care).

Wearability, Proportions & Wrist Presence

At 26 mm, the 69173 is a modestly sized watch—especially by modern standards where women’s models often exceed 30 mm or more. But that is part of its charm. On wrists typical of the 1990s or for those who favour a more classical size, this watch maintains a balanced, elegant presence.

The slim profile and graceful lines of the case help it slip under cuffs or sleeves easily. The two-tone gold and steel combination provides enough visual richness to catch attention without overwhelming more delicate wrists.

Because the design is rooted in Rolex’s Oyster case heritage, the watch carries a reassuring solidity despite its smaller dimensions. It feels like a true Rolex in microcosm rather than a downsized imitation.

Dial Variants & Notable Examples

While the blue vignette dial with diamonds is one of the more striking configurations, the 69173 line also saw numerous variations in dials, bezel styles (smooth vs fluted), and bracelet combinations. Some dials were plain, some with Roman numerals, others with mother-of-pearl or different gem settings. This diversity is part of Datejust’s enduring appeal: the capacity for personalisation within a canonical framework.  

The 69173 Blue Vignette examples often command interest because the contrast of gold, steel, and luminous blue gradient is relatively uncommon. The diamond indices further elevate the aesthetic beyond a standard dial, making it a dressier variant of this size class.

Collectors and retailers often refer to “69173G” when indicating form variants with gem dials, where “G” can hint at gem (though Rolex nomenclature is not always fully transparent) — some listings use 69173G in association with the gem-dialed blue vignette models.  

Historical & Symbolic Significance

While the 69173 Blue Vignette is not as dramatic in historical significance as Rolex’s sport models, its importance lies in representing how Rolex catered to elegance, smaller proportions, and aesthetic variety even at the height of their technical development. It illustrates that Rolex’s design ambitions were not solely confined to large tool watches but extended to beautiful, wearable dress pieces.

In the 1990s, when wristwatch sizes were smaller and jewellery integration more common, the 69173 embodied the notion that a luxury automatic watch could still be delicate, refined, and versatile. The use of gem dials and gradient finishing on a 26 mm case shows that Rolex paid attention to premium finishing even in its smaller models.

Over time, as fashion shifted and women’s watches grew in average size, the 26 mm Datejust references have become more niche, desirable, and evocative of a past era in watch design. They carry a sense of finesse and restraint—a counterpoint to the oversized watch trends of later decades.

Appearance & Visual Character

What makes the 69173 Blue Vignette visually compelling is the interplay of light, materials, and gradient colour. When light strikes the dial centrally, the blue may appear vibrant and luminous; as the angle shifts, the vignette darkens, creating visual depth and contrast with gold elements. The diamond indices sparkle subtly rather than garishly, anchoring the dial in a luxurious but refined aesthetic.

The two-tone case and bracelet (steel plus yellow gold) provide warmth and contrast against the coolness of the blue. The fluted gold bezel frames the dial with texture and a sense of elegance. The Jubilee bracelet (a common bracelet choice for Datejusts) further complements the design, offering a dressy and comfortable wear.

In many lighting conditions, the watch wears more discretely than its materials might suggest. It can slip into formal attire gracefully, yet reveal its richness under closer inspection. The balance is key: the gradient dial commands attention without shouting, the gold accents elevate without overwhelming.

Care, Preservation & Use

As with any luxury mechanical watch, the Rolex 69173 Blue Vignette from 1996 should be treated with care. Its delicate components, gaskets, and movement benefit from routine servicing (every 5 to 8 years, depending on use). Given its age, careful attention should be paid to water resistance: even though Rolex designed these watches to be water-resistant, the ageing of seals over decades means it is prudent not to expose the watch to significant moisture or submersion unless it has been pressure-tested and serviced.

Because it is a smaller and elegant watch, it is not intended as a sports tool. Wear it in daily settings, formal circumstances, and moderate activities, but avoid extremes of shock, magnetic fields, or immersion.

Original parts (dial, hands, bezel, bracelet links) retain value, so when servicing or replacement is needed, using Rolex-approved parts is recommended. Preserving the original gradient dial is especially important, as refinishing or substituting dials may degrade authenticity.

Proper storage (cool, dry, stable conditions) and gentle handling go a long way toward maintaining its beauty. The gradient dial is especially susceptible to uneven fading if exposed to UV light for long periods, so avoiding prolonged direct sunlight exposure is wise.

Why This Model Matters

The Safari of Rolex might be the Submariner or GMT models, but the 69173 Blue Vignette is a reminder of subtler elegance. It embodies Rolex’s capacity to deliver refinement, personal character, and craftsmanship even in small format watches. While its technical features are not groundbreaking compared to sport models, its design finesse, finishing, and dial artistry make it a standout in a quieter corner of Rolex’s catalogue.

In the current vintage and pre-owned market, small-case Rolexes like the 26 mm Datejust are increasingly seen as treasures of a previous era: when proportions were more modest, and details were finer. The Blue Vignette version adds an added layer of collectibility by virtue of its dial rarity and visual appeal.

Summary

The Rolex Datejust 69173 Blue Vignette Dial (1996, 26 mm) is a graceful expression of Rolex’s elegant dress watch tradition. With its two-tone case, fluted gold bezel, gradient blue-vignette dial, diamond hour markers, and the reliable automatic movement behind, it combines sophistication with mechanical integrity. Though differing in scale from sportier icons, this model offers a tactile, luminous, enduring beauty that speaks subtly and confidently.

• Case & bracelet in good vintage condition, exhibiting visible wear on both sides of the case. Strong lugs with factory brushing still visible. 
• Bracelet in good condition, stretch visible with light hairlines.

  Dial & hands very good condition.