Rolex GMT-Master 16753 ‘Root Beer’

Introduction

Among the many colourways that have graced Rolex’s dual-time classic, none is more instantly recognisable—or more polarising—than the brown-and-gold “Root Beer”. Reference 16753, produced from roughly 1981 until the late 1980s, distilled the warm tones first seen on the earlier 1675/3 into a full five-digit upgrade with a higher-beat movement, quick-set date and improved water resistance. It remains a favourite of collectors who appreciate vintage character without sacrificing everyday practicality.  

From Pan Am to Soda Pop: How the Root Beer Emerged

The GMT-Master story begins in 1954 with reference 6542, built for Pan Am pilots crossing multiple time zones. By 1970 Rolex had experimented with bezel colours beyond the famous red-and-blue “Pepsi”, debuting the first brown-and-gold insert on 1675/3—a palette that reminded dealers of a frothy mug of root-beer and gave the variant its enduring nickname.  

Reference 16753 in Context

A Two-Tone Evolution

Rolex introduced 16753 alongside the stainless-steel 16750. Both carried the new calibre 3075 but 16753 alone offered a bi-metal mix of 18 ct yellow gold and 904L steel. The 40 mm Oyster case, now rated to 100 m, retained familiar crown guards while the bezel insert kept the rich brown upper and gilded numerals. Acrylic crystal and tritium lume preserved the vintage feel, yet the watch felt distinctly more modern than its four-digit forebears.  

Dial Details

Early pieces feature the so-called “nipple” dial—small conical markers framed in gold—while later runs adopt larger applied indices. Both variations share a sun-burst brown surface that can fade to copper over decades, giving each example unique character. The gilt text, Mercedes handset and 24-hour arrow complete a dial that balances warm tones with clear legibility, especially when paired with the cream section of the bezel between 18 and 6 hours.  

Bracelet Choices

Buyers could opt for the three-link Oyster with polished gold centre links or the five-link Jubilee—Clint Eastwood’s preferred pairing. Gold-through-centre links tie the case and bezel together and reinforce the era’s growing taste for sporty two-tone luxury.  

Under the Hood: Calibre 3075

Rolex’s calibre 3075 beats at 28,800 vph, hacks for precise setting and, crucially, adds a quick-set date—welcome news to frequent travellers. The movement uses a free-sprung balance with Microstella screws and Kif shock protection, protected beneath a solid screw-down case-back. Service technicians appreciate the calibre’s tidy architecture: the calendar works sit under a separate bridge and the gear train lifts clear without disturbing the escapement, simplifying routine maintenance.  

Famous Wrists and Pop-Culture Moments

Clint Eastwood: The On-Screen Ambassador

Hollywood legend Clint Eastwood wore his personal 16753 both on and off camera, making appearances in Firefox(1982), Tightrope (1984) and In The Line of Fire (1993). His loyalty earned the watch an alternate nickname—the “Clint Eastwood GMT”.  

Modern Celebrities Keeping the Flame Alive

While Eastwood cemented the vintage model’s fame, today’s cultural figures continue to champion the Root Beer look. A 2019 GQ round-up noted Ben Simmons sporting the colourway, alongside fans such as John Mayer, Bradley Cooper, Trevor Noah and the late Hunter S. Thompson. Their choices span both vintage 16753s and later ceramic references, proving the appeal of brown-and-gold endures well beyond the 1980s.  

Wearing the 16753 Today

Despite its age, reference 16753 is an easy everyday companion. The 40 mm case wears smaller than many modern sports watches, helped by modest lug-to-lug length and the visual slimming effect of the two-tone finish. Acrylic crystal adds warmth and can be polished to remove scuffs, while 100 m water resistance covers daily exposure. The quick-set calibre eliminates the date-setting dance typical of earlier GMTs, and the bidirectional bezel remains a painless way to track a second zone—handy whether you are crossing the Pacific or just phoning suppliers in Switzerland.  

Legacy and Later Offspring

Production of 16753 wound down by 1988 when the six-digit 16700 arrived with calibre 3175, but the Root Beer palette resurfaced in the 1990s on the GMT-Master II 16713 and again in 2018 on Everose-gold variants 126711CHNR and 126715CHNR. Each resurrection tweaks the formula—ceramic bezels, rose gold, independently adjustable hour hands—yet the soul remains that distinctive blend of brown, gold and travel-ready function first perfected in the 1970s and refined by 16753.  

Final Thoughts

Reference 16753 sits at a sweet spot: mechanically modern enough for daily reliability, yet packed with vintage charm in its acrylic crystal, tritium lume and rich ‘Root Beer’ hues. It captures a period when Rolex was willing to play with colour, embraces the two-tone trend without feeling flashy, and carries the cultural cachet of Clint Eastwood’s silver-screen appearances. For enthusiasts who want a GMT that stands apart from the Pepsi and Batman crowd, the 16753 offers history, practicality and unmistakable personality—all in a package that still slips neatly under a cuff.

Case in excellent vintage condition. Very sharp lugs with chamfers still visible. Bracelet in great condition. Light hairlines visible.

Dial and hands in great condition. Lovely patina visible.