Rolex Submariner 14060M: A Purist’s Diver

The No-Date Submariner Legacy

The Rolex Submariner’s story begins in 1953 with reference 6204, the first of the brand’s professional divers. By offering no date display, Rolex maintained an uncluttered, symmetrical dial that appealed to both working divers and enthusiasts who valued simplicity. Over the years, the no-date Submariner became a cult favourite, running through references such as the 6536, 5512, and the long-lived 5513. Each update improved depth rating, luminescence, and movement performance, but the essence remained constant: a clean, highly legible tool watch stripped of unnecessary detail.

When the 14060 debuted in 1990, it carried that legacy forward. It introduced 300-metre water resistance, glossy dials with white-gold surrounds, and the calibre 3000 movement. A decade later, Rolex quietly updated the reference, creating the 14060M. With its new calibre 3130, the 14060M represented a technical refinement that would carry the no-date Sub into the 21st century.

From 5513 to 14060M

The Submariner reference 5513, produced between 1962 and 1989, became the archetype of the no-date line. Its matte dials with painted markers, tritium lume, and aluminium bezels defined the Submariner look for nearly three decades. When Rolex replaced it with the 14060, the changes were evolutionary, but by the time of the 14060M in the early 2000s, the improvements were substantial.

The calibre 3130 introduced a full balance bridge, Breguet overcoil, and free-sprung Microstella balance system, strengthening accuracy and shock resistance. Water resistance was set at 300 metres, and luminous paint had moved from tritium to Luminova by 1999, providing bright, long-lasting glow without the ageing or patina of earlier lume. Yet despite these upgrades, the watch remained firmly a no-date Submariner: symmetrical, balanced, and uncompromisingly functional.

2002 in Context: The Two-Line 14060M

A 2002 Submariner no-date sits firmly within the “two-line” era of the 14060M. The dial carries only “SUBMARINER” and “1000ft = 300m” above six o’clock, a restrained approach that recalls the uncluttered 5513. These watches did not carry COSC certification text, setting them apart from the “four-line” versions that arrived later in 2007.

Collectors often describe this period as a sweet spot. The watch houses the modern, technically advanced calibre 3130, but its dial retains the stripped-back character that purists prize. Many 2002 examples also feature drilled lug holes, a nod to the model’s tool-watch roots and a practical aid for strap changes. Combined with Luminova dials that glow bright green in the dark, the 2002 14060M offers the best of both eras: vintage charm and contemporary reliability.

Case and Bezel Architecture

40 mm Oyster Case

The Submariner 14060M carries the classic 40 mm Oystersteel case, with narrow lugs and elegant proportions compared to the broader “Super Case” that followed. At around 12.5 mm thick and 47.5 mm lug-to-lug, it wears slim and versatile. Polished case sides contrast with brushed lugs, while the Triplock crown and screw-down caseback ensure water resistance to 300 metres.

Aluminium Bezel Insert

The bezel retains the anodised aluminium insert used throughout the pre-ceramic era. Its silver triangle at 12 o’clock, luminous pearl, and 60-minute graduations provide at-a-glance timing underwater or in low light. The insert’s aluminium construction can pick up characterful wear or fading over time, adding individuality to each watch. A unidirectional 120-click mechanism prevents accidental extension of dive times, reinforcing its professional credentials.

Calibre 3130 Movement

The defining feature of the 14060M is the calibre 3130. Based on the proven 3135 but without a date complication, it introduced structural and performance gains over the outgoing calibre 3000. A free-sprung balance with Microstella regulation, full balance bridge, and Breguet overcoil spring all contribute to stability and accuracy. The movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour, with a 48-hour power reserve. Though two-line dials were not COSC-certified, Rolex adjusted the calibre 3130 to chronometer-level tolerances at the factory. Protected behind a solid steel caseback, the 3130 is built for endurance rather than display.

Dial and Hands

Two-Line Layout

A 2002 dial is glossy black with applied white-gold surrounds filled with Luminova. The simplicity of the two-line text leaves the lower dial uncluttered, enhancing the symmetry of the Mercedes hour hand, sword-style minute hand, and lollipop seconds. At 12, the Rolex coronet crowns the dial above “ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL,” continuing a design language stretching back decades.

Lume Performance

Replacing tritium with Luminova meant consistent, long-lasting glow. The dial markers remain crisp white by day and light up bright green at night. Unlike tritium, which fades and discolours, Luminova ensures predictable performance for practical use.

Bracelet and Clasp

The Oyster bracelet reference 93150 fitted to 2002 watches combines robust Oystersteel with a taper from 20 mm at the lugs to 16 mm at the clasp. Hollow centre links keep weight low, making the watch comfortable for daily wear. End links are stamped 501B, and the Oysterlock clasp incorporates a divers’ extension for wetsuit use. While lighter than the solid-link bracelets of later Submariners, the 93150 balances the watch head perfectly, offering classic wearability.

Wearing Experience

On the wrist, the 14060M delivers everything the Submariner name suggests in its purest form. The slimmer proportions, drilled lugs, and lighter bracelet create a sense of agility absent from modern ceramic Subs. The two-line dial enhances symmetry, appealing to those who prefer simplicity over text-heavy designs. The tactile click of the aluminium bezel and the bright glow of Luminova complete the experience. It’s a watch equally suited to the sea, the office, or formal wear.

Cultural Significance

The 2002 14060M represents a transitional chapter in the Submariner’s history. It combines modern mechanical strength with the design DNA of earlier tool watches. It was one of the last Rolex Submariners to retain lug holes and an aluminium bezel insert, anchoring it to vintage tradition, while its calibre 3130 pushed the line into a new century of precision. For collectors, the two-line 14060M occupies a unique niche: a modern Submariner that still wears and feels like the classics.

Final Thoughts

The Rolex Submariner 14060M from 2002 captures a perfect balance of old and new. With the calibre 3130 inside, Luminova lume on the dial, and drilled lugs on the case, it embodies the purist’s Submariner while embracing modern reliability. The restrained two-line dial ensures aesthetic continuity with the legendary 5513, while the upgrades secure its place as a capable daily diver. For those seeking an understated, functional, and historically significant Rolex, the 2002 14060M is one of the most compelling choices in the Submariner family.

• Case in very good, light hairlines visible, sharp lugs.
• Bracelet in great condition, little to no stretch with light hairlines visible. 
•  SERVICED BY MAX SCHWEIZER 12/2/25 (FULL OVERHAUL)

•   Dial & hands flawless.