Rolex Submariner 1680 “Red” with Luminova Service Dial (circa early 1970s)

Introduction

Rolex’s Submariner reference 1680 marks the moment the brand introduced a date to its famed dive watch, creating a parallel lineage that endures today. Early examples with the single-line red “SUBMARINER” script—shorthand “Red Sub”—define the first phase of this model’s life. The watch discussed here presents a particularly interesting configuration: an early 1680 Submariner Date retained through the decades and later fitted with a Rolex Luminova red service dial. That combination blends the original reference’s historical significance with late-1990s luminous technology and dial printing conventions, including the “SWISS”-only or “SWISS MADE” era markings that followed Rolex’s move away from tritium. Understanding what this dial is, why it exists, and how uncommon it is requires a brief tour through the 1680’s origin story and the service-dial landscape Rolex created at the end of the 20th century.  

The Reference 1680 in Context

Rolex introduced the date-equipped Submariner toward the end of the 1960s. The 1680 kept the familiar 40 mm Oystersteel case, rotating aluminium timing bezel, and screw-down crown while adding a framed date at 3 o’clock beneath an acrylic crystal with Cyclops magnifier. Under the bonnet was the automatic calibre 1575—a robust 1500-series movement whose reliability helped cement the Submariner’s reputation; it would later receive hacking seconds as part of ongoing improvements. Early dials carried the “SUBMARINER” line printed in red above the depth rating; later production changed this to all-white printing.  

What Makes a “Red Sub”

“Red Sub” refers specifically to 1680 dials with the red “SUBMARINER” line. These appeared through the first half of the reference’s run before Rolex transitioned to white text. Multiple dial “Marks” exist, each with subtle differences in fonts and layout, but the defining constant is that single red line. The black matte surface, printed white text, tritium lume plots, and aluminium bezel form the classic template. Period sources and modern overviews consistently note that the red-text phase ended mid-decade, after which the 1680 continued with white text until discontinuation around the end of the 1970s.  

Case, Bezel and Wearing Experience

With 200 m water-resistance, the 1680 case preserves the crisp geometry of late-1960s Rolex tool watches: brushed lug tops, polished case flanks, and crown guards flanking the Triplock crown. The bidirectional aluminium bezel with 60-minute graduation offers functional timing. On the wrist, the acrylic crystal’s gentle distortion at the dial’s edge, the matte dial surface, and the tall insert together deliver the quintessential vintage Submariner feel—exactly the aesthetic many seek in an early 1680.  

Movement: Calibre 1575

Rolex’s calibre 1575 is a 26-jewel automatic based on the 1570 architecture, geared for a date display and—depending on variant—later updated with hacking seconds. Its reputation for durability spans multiple professional references, including period Submariners, GMT-Masters and Sea-Dwellers. Beat rate, construction and the full balance bridge reflected Rolex’s emphasis on robustness across its professional line in this era.  

A Red Sub with a Luminova Service Dial—What That Means

Beginning in the late 1990s, Rolex replaced many tritium dials with Luminova (and soon after Super-Luminova) when luminous material needed updating. This change in lume technology introduced a distinct dial-footnote at 6 o’clock: “SWISS” only marks usually indicate Luminova (roughly 1998–1999), while “SWISS MADE” marks typically indicate Super-Luminova (1999 onward). When such dials are fitted to earlier references—including the Submariner 1680—they are, by definition, service parts.  

Crucially for this watch type, Rolex also produced red-text service dials—that is, replacement dials retaining the red “SUBMARINER” line but printed to late-1990s standards and luminous technology. Several documented examples exist, typically described as Luminova red service dials and often noted as uncommon relative to both original-period red tritium dials and the far more common white-text service replacements seen on 1680s.  

Evidence for the Red Luminova Service Dial

Multiple independent sources corroborate the relative scarcity—of red Luminova service dials for the 1680.

1) DRSD.com (Red Sub resource): A dedicated page describes the “Luminova Red Sub,” noting that Rolex “responded to requests by sometimes replacing… red dials with a newer red dial,” whose plots glow green (Luminova). The same resource distinguishes this service dial by its “SWISS” signature at 6 o’clock on many examples.  

2) Craft + Tailored listing: A detailed write-up of a 1680 explicitly labelled “Luminova Service Dial” describes a “SWISS-only” Luminova service dial with non-serif typography and fresh luminous, indicating a late-1990s service part on an earlier Red Sub. Dealer write-ups are not “primary scientific sources,” but reputable specialists typically disclose service components with detail because those are material facts for vintage watches.  

3) Forum archives (TimeZone/Rolex Forums): Discussion threads from long-running, expert-moderated communities reference red Luminova service dials for the 1680 and debate their appearance, printing weight, and hands. Their consensus: they exist, and they are not commonly encountered, as Rolex more often fitted white-text service dials.  

4) General dial-signature timeline: Independent essays and glossaries on “SWISS-only” dials confirm the short 1998–1999 window for Luminova signatures before “SWISS MADE” returned for Super-Luminova. This timeline explains why early references serviced in that window may carry SWISS-only Luminova dials today.  

Why Red Luminova Service Dials Are Uncommon

Rolex ceased producing Red Sub dials in the mid-1970s. By the time Luminova arrived in the late 1990s, the factory had long standardised the 1680’s white-text service replacements—logical from a parts-rationalisation standpoint. Producing a red-text Luminova dial meant re-introducing that single red line for a legacy reference. The available evidence suggests Rolex did make them, but not in large numbers; consequently, they surface less frequently than white service dials.  

The dial-footnote at 6 o’clock reinforces the dating: “SWISS” typically signals Luminova, which had a very short production window, whereas tritium carried “SWISS-T<25.” When a 1680 returns from service with a bright-glowing dial marked “SWISS”, that points to a late-1990s service replacement. When the line reads “SWISS MADE,” it more likely reflects the subsequent Super-Luminova era. Either way, a red-text service dial is a special case within that already narrow window.  

How to Identify a Luminova Red Service Dial on a 1680

Lume behaviour: Under low light, plots and hands glow bright green (Luminova/Super-Luminova), in contrast to the warm, short-lived glow of aged tritium. Many service hands were also swapped, so matching brightness is common.  

Dial signature at 6: Look for “SWISS” (Luminova) or “SWISS MADE” (Super-Luminova) rather than “SWISS-T<25.” The former two indicate non-radioactive modern lume; the latter is tritium.  

Typography and layout: Numerous examples show slightly different fonts compared with period-correct tritium red dials (subtleties in “SUBMARINER” weight, minute-track printing, and coronet form). Specialist resources and detailed dealer listings often illustrate these tells side-by-side.  

Provenance clues: Service paperwork from the late 1990s/early 2000s, or correspondence noting dial replacement, strengthens attribution. (Rolex’s own service pages detail what can be replaced during overhaul, though they do not publish model-specific dial histories.)  

Bracelet Notes and Period Details

During this era, steel 1680s typically shipped on Oyster reference 9315 bracelets with 280/380 end links, moving later to 93150 with 580 end links as the brand strengthened bracelets. Black aluminium bezel inserts and tall acrylic crystals remained signature traits. These specifics matter because service histories sometimes add later bracelets or inserts; a Luminova red service dial can appear on a case wearing a later bracelet without changing the watch’s underlying identity as a Red Sub-era 1680.  

Historical Significance of the 1680

The 1680 transformed the Submariner line by introducing the date and Cyclops magnifier—features that made the model more versatile for everyday life while preserving dive-tool credibility. That shift set the stage for every Submariner Date that followed. The early red-text period is historically important as it captures Rolex’s late-1960s aesthetic while signalling the brand’s readiness to evolve its most recognisable tool watch. From a design perspective, the 1680 balances vintage charm—matte dial, acrylic crystal, aluminium bezel—with the practical utility of a date function and robust 200 m case construction.  

Wearing a 1680 with a Luminova Red Service Dial

On the wrist, this configuration blends two eras: the case architecture, acrylic profile and bezel aesthetic of a late-1960s/early-1970s Sub, paired with a fresh-glow dial more akin to late-1990s Rolex. For daily wear, that means classic visuals with modern night-time readability. It also means the dial’s printing is typically crisper and whiter than period tritium examples, and the red “SUBMARINER” text often appears more saturated than on some aged originals. Observers accustomed to vintage patina will notice the difference immediately; those seeking the look and legibility of a “new” Red Sub dial will appreciate it.  

How Uncommon Is It—Practical Perspective

Because the SWISS-only Luminova window was very short and because Rolex more commonly supplied white-text1680 service dials, the red Luminova service dial appears infrequently across dealer inventories, forum sales, and auctions. When they surface, descriptions often emphasise their scarcity or “seldom-seen” status. While exact production quantities are not published by Rolex, the documentary trail—specialist write-ups, long-standing forum discussions, and marketplace language—supports classifying these dials as uncommon within the service-dial universe for the 1680.  

The Broader 1680 Legacy

The 1680 was the turning point that introduced the Submariner Date, splitting the line into the date and no-date families still seen today. Its elements—Cyclops, date at 3, aluminium bezel, acrylic crystal—formed the template for the Submariner Date references that followed through the pre-ceramic era. That is why early 1680s occupy such a central place in the model’s story: they connect the earliest dive-tool DNA to the modern, daily-wear format.  

Final Thoughts

A Submariner 1680 with a Luminova red service dial sits at a fascinating intersection: the foundational early Submariner Date architecture paired with a late-1990s factory replacement dial that restores luminous performance and preserves the red “SUBMARINER” identity. The supporting record—specialist resources documenting the dial, period-correct “SWISS/Swiss-Made” signatures tied to Luminova/Super-Luminova, and the consistent language in forum and marketplace archives—indicates these dials are genuine Rolex service parts and uncommon compared with standard white-text service replacements. A historically important Submariner reference, updated by its maker with a seldom-seen twist that bridges vintage design and late-modern functionality.

• Case in Great condition, minimal wear visible. 
• Case has been lightly polished 
• Thick lugs with factory chamfers & brushing still visible 
• Bracelet in great condition, light hairlines visible.

 Dial & hands service luminova.