Rolex Submariner Date 16800 'Stardust Dial' 40mm 1985

The Rolex Submariner 16800: Bridging the Old World and the New

The Rolex Submariner reference 16800 sits at a unique junction in the lineage of the Submariner—one that straddles the line between vintage charm and modern refinement. Introduced in the late 1970s and produced through to the late 1980s (this one is from 1985) the 16800 marked a significant evolutionary step for Rolex’s iconic dive watch. It was the first Submariner to feature a quickset date, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and a depth rating of 300 metres—three major developments that redefined the model for the modern age.

And yet, for all its modernity, the 16800 still retained key traits of the older Submariner references that preceded it. For collectors today, that duality—vintage proportions and patina with newer tech and reliability—makes the 16800 a compelling proposition. It represents the best of both worlds.

The End of an Era—and the Start of a New One

To appreciate the 16800’s role in the Submariner lineage, it helps to understand what came before. The outgoing model, the reference 1680, had brought the date complication to the Submariner line in the late 1960s, but it still used acrylic crystals and the calibre 1575 movement. The 1680 had become a classic in its own right, with its distinctive “top hat” crystal and red-letter variants, but by the end of the 1970s, it was showing its age.

In response, Rolex introduced the 16800 around 1979. This new reference was not just a cosmetic update—it was a re-engineering. The biggest change came in the form of the calibre 3035 movement. This high-beat movement (running at 28,800 vibrations per hour) offered increased accuracy and, most importantly, a quickset date mechanism. No longer did users have to wind through the hours to set the date manually; the new calibre allowed for independent adjustment via the crown.

It also marked the introduction of sapphire crystal to the Submariner range. This was a major departure from the domed acrylic crystals used on all previous Submariners. The switch to sapphire greatly improved scratch resistance, giving the Submariner a more modern and refined profile in the process.

The 16800 also came with a boosted depth rating of 300 metres (1,000 feet), thanks in part to a redesigned case and more robust Triplock crown system. This brought the Submariner in line with professional dive watch standards of the era and made it a more legitimate tool for saturation diving.

Transitional Details and Collector Appeal

What makes the 16800 particularly interesting to collectors is that it evolved noticeably during its production run. Early examples (1979–1984) came with matte dials and painted tritium hour markers with no white gold surrounds, much like the 1680 and earlier Submariners. These matte dials have aged beautifully over time, often developing warm, creamy patina on the markers and hands.

Later examples (from 1984 onwards) introduced gloss dials with applied markers surrounded by white gold—a design cue that continues to this day on the modern Submariner. These later gloss dials tend to remain darker and shinier over time, contrasting with the more “milky” look of the earlier matte variants.

This split in dial design gives collectors options: some lean toward the vintage aesthetic of the matte dial era, while others prefer the visual sharpness and durability of the gloss dial versions.

Additionally, bezel inserts can vary. Most 16800s came with black aluminium bezels, which, over time, tend to fade into shades of grey or even ghost-like silver tones. This ageing process adds individual character to each watch and is a big part of the appeal for vintage enthusiasts.

The case size remained a classic 40mm, with drilled lugs—another feature beloved by vintage fans for ease of strap changes. The bracelet was the familiar Oyster style with solid links, secured by a folding clasp and diver’s extension. While not quite as bombproof as modern Rolex bracelets, it remains comfortable and durable.

Calibre 3035: The Beating Heart

The calibre 3035 movement inside the 16800 was a significant step forward for Rolex. It replaced the 1575 and introduced several key improvements. First was the faster beat rate—28,800 vibrations per hour compared to 19,800 in the older movement—resulting in a smoother sweep of the seconds hand and better timekeeping stability.

The quickset date feature dramatically improved usability, particularly for those who rotated between multiple watches in a collection. The 3035 also featured a Breguet overcoil hairspring and a free-sprung balance with Microstella regulation. Though not as revered as the later calibre 3135, the 3035 is still known for its durability and longevity.

Servicing a 3035 today is straightforward for any watchmaker with Rolex experience, and parts are still readily available. This makes the 16800 more viable as a daily wear watch compared to earlier references that might require more care.

In Context: Where It Fits in the Submariner Timeline

The 16800 paved the way for its successor, the reference 16610, which carried the Submariner Date into the 1990s and early 2000s. The 16610 kept many of the 16800’s upgrades but added small refinements such as the updated 3135 movement and SEL (solid end link) bracelets in later versions.

If the 1680 is the classic vintage Submariner Date and the 16610 is the accessible modern reference, then the 16800 is the transitional link. It bridges the two worlds with elements of both, offering enthusiasts the choice between older dial aesthetics and modern reliability.

Its no-date sibling, the 16800’s counterpart in spirit, is the reference 5513, which was still in production at the time. The two watches share similar case designs, but the 16800 had more technical advancements under the hood.

This transitional role is what makes the 16800 so compelling today. It’s vintage enough to develop patina and feel old-school on the wrist, but modern enough to live with every day. It’s also less frequently faked or Frankensteined than earlier Submariners, giving buyers a little more peace of mind—though thorough due diligence is always advised.

Market Perception and Availability

For a long time, the 16800 flew under the radar. It lacked the gilt dials and red text of earlier models, and it wasn’t as ubiquitous or flashy as the 16610. But in recent years, as vintage Rolex collecting has matured, the 16800 has started to come into its own.

Collectors have begun to appreciate its transitional status and the variety within the reference—particularly the earlier matte dial versions, which have become increasingly scarce. Those with nicely aged lume plots and bezels often command a significant premium.

However, the 16800 still remains relatively undervalued when compared to earlier Submariners like the 1680 or the no-date 5513. That makes it one of the better entry points into vintage Rolex collecting today, especially for someone who wants a watch that can both look the part and hold up to daily use.

Price ranges vary considerably depending on dial type, condition, originality, and whether the watch comes with box and papers. As always with vintage Rolex, originality is king—altered dials, replaced hands, or aftermarket parts can drastically affect value.

Wearing the 16800 Today

On the wrist, the 16800 wears like a classic tool watch. The 40mm case feels purposeful but never bulky, and the thin lugs (especially compared to modern Super Case Submariners) give it a vintage silhouette that hugs the wrist nicely. The lug holes add to the utilitarian charm and open up a range of strap possibilities beyond the Oyster bracelet.

The dial—whether matte or gloss—offers strong legibility, with the familiar Mercedes hands and rotating bezel that have defined the Submariner for over half a century. The watch feels at home whether you’re diving, travelling, or heading to a business meeting. It’s a one-watch collection contender, the kind of watch that can go anywhere and do anything, just as Rolex intended.

And crucially, it’s a Rolex that still flies slightly under the radar. To the average onlooker, it’s just a Submariner. But to those in the know, a well-kept 16800 says something a bit different: you’ve done your homework.

Final Thoughts

The Rolex Submariner 16800 deserves more recognition than it typically receives. As the reference that ushered the Submariner into the modern era—while retaining the soul of the vintage models—it holds a special place in the watch’s evolutionary story.

It’s not the oldest, rarest, or flashiest Submariner. But it is one of the most balanced. The 16800 combines vintage aesthetics, modern practicality, and enough variation within the reference to keep things interesting for collectors.

For someone entering the world of vintage Rolex, the 16800 offers a compelling blend of usability and heritage. For seasoned collectors, it offers that transitional magic—just enough old-school charm, with none of the old-school headaches. And in a world of ever-inflating prices and hype-driven models, that makes the Submariner 16800 something increasingly rare: a Rolex that still feels like a discovery.

Case and bracelet are in good vintage condition with light hairline scratches visible. Bracelet in good vintage condition, some stretch visible and light hairlines.

• Dial: ‘stardust’ patina 
• Hands relumed