Omega 166.027 Seamaster 120 M Stardust Dial 37MM 1967

Omega Seamaster 120 Reference 166.027 with a Stardust Dial: A Closer Look

Over the years, the Seamaster name has been associated with everything from classic dress pieces to professional diver’s watches. Among the various models in the family, the Omega Seamaster 120 stands out as a fascinating sub-collection that offered robust water resistance in a more compact format compared to its bigger sibling, the Seamaster 300. One particularly captivating version of the Seamaster 120 is the Reference 166.027, notable for what collectors often refer to as a “stardust” dial. 

A Brief History of the Omega Seamaster

Before delving into the specifics of the Seamaster 120, it’s worth taking a step back to appreciate the broader Seamaster lineage. Omega first introduced the Seamaster collection in 1948, making it the brand’s oldest continually produced line. Launched to coincide with Omega’s 100th anniversary, the inaugural Seamaster was marketed as a sturdy, water-resistant watch suitable for both everyday wear and more demanding situations. It built upon the waterproof technology Omega had developed for the British military during World War II, blending practicality with a refined aesthetic that appealed to civilians.

Over the subsequent decades, the Seamaster family diversified. The 1950s and 1960s saw Omega release a number of variations, from dressy models often equipped with the legendary calibre 500-series movements to professional-grade dive watches like the Seamaster 300 (introduced in 1957). This expansion ensured that there was a Seamaster for just about every lifestyle and use case. While the Seamaster 300 garnered attention for its impressive depth rating and role in professional or military settings, Omega also recognised a segment of the market that needed a watch with solid water resistance but did not necessarily require a full-fledged professional diver. It was in this context that the Seamaster 120 emerged.

Introducing the Seamaster 120

Often overshadowed by the more famous Seamaster 300, the Seamaster 120 was nevertheless an important offering from Omega. With a depth rating of 120 metres (hence the name), it provided serious water resistance for recreational diving, snorkelling, or simply enjoying water sports. Compared to the Seamaster 300, which featured a larger and more robust case, the Seamaster 120 often sported a more compact profile, catering to individuals who preferred a moderately sized watch on the wrist.

Launched in the mid-1960s, the Seamaster 120 line included various references, with Ref. 166.027 (featuring a date window) and Ref. 165.027 (no date) being among the more commonly cited. These watches were powered by Omega’s highly regarded automatic movements from the Calibre 560 family, typically the Calibre 565 for date models. The Seamaster 120 quickly earned a reputation for reliability, ease of wear, and an appealing design that struck a harmonious balance between sporty functionality and understated elegance.

Reference 166.027: Key Specifications

The Omega Seamaster 120 Ref. 166.027 was usually cased in stainless steel, with both polished and brushed finishing that emphasised the watch’s contours. Case sizes varied slightly over the years, but many examples measure around 36–37 mm in diameter—modest by modern standards, yet perfectly suitable for those seeking a vintage piece that’s both wearable and stylish. The screw-down caseback helped achieve the 120-metre water-resistance rating, while a signed crown ensured a reliable seal.

Inside, the watch was commonly equipped with the Calibre 565, an automatic movement introduced by Omega in the 1960s as a successor to the earlier 550-series calibres. Renowned for its durability and accuracy, the Calibre 565 features a date function that can be quickset. When maintained properly, it remains an excellent performer, testifying to Omega’s engineering acumen during that era.

The bezel on many Seamaster 120 models (including Ref. 166.027) tended to be thinner than on professional divers, often displaying a 60-minute scale. Although functional, this slimmer design contributed to the Seamaster 120’s more understated look..

The Allure of the Stardust Dial

One of the most eye-catching and elusive variations of the Seamaster 120 Ref. 166.027 is the so-called “stardust” dial. The nickname arises from the dial’s subtle, glitter-like sparkle that becomes more apparent when it catches the light at certain angles. Although the origin of the term “stardust” is not definitively documented—some believe it was an unofficial collector’s nickname—the effect itself makes these models instantly recognisable.

Crucially, this shimmering quality is subdued rather than overtly flashy. Under normal indoor lighting, the dial may appear simply metallic or lightly textured. But in direct sunlight or bright conditions, the “stardust” effect emerges, evoking a starry sky. This distinctive dial treatment sets it apart from more common matte or gloss dials, offering a unique visual depth and character.

In most respects, the stardust dial follows the standard Seamaster 120 layout: applied indices filled with luminous material, an Omega logo and text at the usual positions, and a date window at 3 o’clock for the date-equipped references. The combination of the glittering backdrop with classic mid-century design elements gives the watch a refined, timeless aesthetic.

Collectability and Value

Vintage Omega watches have experienced a marked increase in popularity over the past couple of decades, and the Seamaster 120 has not been exempt from this trend. Although it typically occupies a lower price range than the Seamaster 300 or the Speedmaster Professional, the 120’s enduring appeal lies in its mix of robust build quality, vintage charm, and wearable case size. Within this niche, the stardust dial variant commands particular attention due to its rarity and striking appearance.

Final Thoughts

The Omega Seamaster 120 Ref. 166.027 with a is a noteworthy piece within Omega’s extensive catalogue. It fills the niche between full-fledged professional divers and more casual sports watches, offering a design that is both practical and subtly eye-catching. The glitter-like quality of the dial, when viewed under the right light, introduces a layer of visual intrigue that sets this version apart from standard Seamaster 120 variants.

Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the watch serves as a reminder of Omega’s legacy, which began with the introduction of the Seamaster line in 1948. The combination of a venerable automatic movement (Calibre 565), moderate case size, and distinctive dial design ensures that the stardust Seamaster 120 occupies a special place in the hearts of collectors. Enthusiasts are continually drawn to this reference, not just for its rarity but also for the enduring functionality it offers decades after its initial release.

Case in good vintage condition. Hairlines visible on both sides. Aftermarket leather strap in good condition.

Dial has formed unique stardust patina and hands are lightly oxidised.