Omega Speedmaster 'Ed White' Ref 311.30.40.30.01.001 | 39.7MM 2021

From the outside, it might look like a slightly smaller, vintage-inspired Speedmaster, but within its 39.7 mm case and behind its iconic black dial lies a direct connection to one of NASA’s most historic figures. The watch’s association with Edward Higgins White II—known simply as Ed White—traces its lineage back to the mid-1960s and the defining moments when space travel was captivating the world’s imagination. Though Omega’s Speedmaster is often associated with the Moon landings, Ed White’s involvement in the early Gemini missions was pivotal in establishing the Speedmaster’s reputation as a reliable tool for astronauts, and his personal story adds a profound layer of significance to this reissue. Here it is -

Ed White was born in 1930 and went on to attend the United States Military Academy at West Point, after which he chose to pursue a career in the United States Air Force. His credentials were solidified by an engineering master’s degree from the University of Michigan and his test pilot experience, making him a prime candidate when NASA looked for individuals who could endure the rigours of spaceflight. White joined NASA as part of the second group of astronauts selected, often referred to as the “Next Nine.” This group included notable figures such as Neil Armstrong and James McDivitt, forming the backbone of the Gemini and Apollo missions. Ed White’s place in the annals of space history was secured on 3 June 1965, when he performed the first American extra-vehicular activity (EVA) during the Gemini IV mission. Floating outside the spacecraft with the Earth spinning beneath him, he described it as the most exhilarating experience of his life. In the dramatic photographs from that mission, one can see an Omega Speedmaster strapped to the outside of his spacesuit. That watch was the reference 105.003, and due to Ed White’s association with it during that groundbreaking EVA, the model has since been affectionately dubbed the “Ed White.”

While the Speedmaster’s role in NASA’s Apollo programme overshadowed the earlier Gemini missions, the historical impact of Ed White’s spacewalk was enormous. For precisely 23 minutes, White floated in the vacuum of space, tethered only by a cord. In those moments, he validated the feasibility of working outside a spacecraft in microgravity, paving the way for countless extravehicular activities to follow during the subsequent Gemini and Apollo missions—and indeed in modern spaceflight. Sadly, his promising career was cut short when he, along with fellow astronauts Gus Grissom and Roger Chaffee, lost their lives on 27 January 1967 in the tragic Apollo 1 spacecraft fire during a ground test. Though Ed White’s time with NASA was heartbreakingly brief, his legacy endures through the watch that accompanied him on his historic spacewalk and through the values he embodied.

In 2020, Omega brought forth the Speedmaster “Ed White” reissue. Officially, it carries a modern reference, 311.30.40.01.001, distinguishing it from the original 105.003, yet retaining the aesthetic cues and spirit that enthusiasts associate with Ed White. From a visual standpoint, this watch hearkens back to the mid-1960s designs. It forgoes the crown guards that would appear on later Speedmaster references, maintaining a straight-lug case shape with polished and brushed surfaces. The diameter of 39.7 mm is close to the original, and the thin bezel keeps the overall profile elegantly contained on the wrist. Its dial features the classic tri-compax layout with baton hands and luminous hour markers, all rendered in a way that preserves the vintage flavour without compromising modern practicality. The tachymetre scale on the black bezel remains one of the defining characteristics of the Speedmaster, a reminder of its origins as a racing chronograph before NASA ever took notice.

However, there’s something even bigger...Omega reintroduced the calibre 321 for this watch, a movement that first appeared in 1949 and was used in early Speedmaster references. The original calibre 321 became a favourite among collectors for its illustrious flight history—this was the movement powering the watches worn during the first American spacewalk and even on the Moon. For decades, it had been absent from Omega’s main catalogue, leaving fans to seek out vintage pieces whenever they craved that mechanical legacy. The decision to revive the calibre 321 was no small feat, involving extensive research and modern manufacturing techniques to replicate and, in many respects, enhance this legendary mechanism. Thus, the modern Speedmaster “Ed White” does more than merely replicate the looks of the 105.003; it revives the original “heart” that defined the watch in Ed White’s era.

Every aspect of the new watch’s construction feels like a nod to the golden age of space exploration, when the world was gripped by the rivalry of superpowers racing to the Moon. The sapphire crystal front and rear neatly blends vintage aesthetics with contemporary durability. While the old Speedmasters sported Hesalite crystals that were more prone to scratches (though, pretty cool), some appreciate the clarity and scratch resistance that sapphire brings. Through the transparent caseback, one can admire the column-wheel calibre 321 in all its meticulous detail. This view offers collectors an insight into what NASA astronauts in the 1960s would never have seen while wearing the watch—back then, the caseback was closed and engraved to meet NASA’s strict equipment requirements.

In wearing or simply beholding the Speedmaster “Ed White” reissue, many feel connected not only to a high watermark in mechanical watchmaking, but also to an era when humanity made giant leaps off the face of our planet. Ed White’s achievement as the first American to conduct a spacewalk was a critical stepping-stone. It proved that an astronaut could physically work outside the spacecraft. It also served as an emotional high point for a world locked in the midst of the Cold War. White’s personality—hopeful, humble, and resolute—became symbolic of the kind of astronaut NASA valued. His tragic loss in the Apollo 1 fire, though devastating, led to overhauls in spacecraft safety and design, ultimately making the Apollo missions more secure for those who followed.

Today, collectors gravitate towards the Ed White reissue for myriad reasons. For some, it is the vintage styling that resonates, evoking a cleaner, more restrained appearance compared to later Moonwatches. Others are enamoured with the revived calibre 321, seeing it as a piece of living history on the wrist. And for many, the link to Ed White’s personal story—his bravery in stepping out into the void of space and the emotional weight of his untimely passing—imbues the watch with a deep significance. This is not merely a timekeeper or a fashionable luxury item.

Omega’s dedication to honouring Ed White’s memory goes beyond simply replicating an old watch. By meticulously crafting a modern version of the Speedmaster that remains faithful to the original proportions and mechanical soul, Omega underscores its respect for the astronauts who dared to venture into uncharted territory. Each brushstroke on the steel case, each precisely machined gear in the calibre 321, and even the subtle luminous paint on the dial collectively celebrate Ed White’s courage and the watch’s history. Though few of us will experience the weightlessness of an EVA, the watch serves as a reminder of what people can achieve when pushing boundaries in pursuit of knowledge and progress. Owning or even just admiring it can be a symbolic way of partaking in that legacy, carrying on the torch of those who gazed down at our planet and recognised how precious our “pale blue dot” truly is.

Ultimately, the Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” 311.30.40.01.001 is more than a vintage reissue. It reminds us of a man who floated freely, high above the Earth, and returned to share his awe, forever capturing our imagination and inspiring future explorers. For Ed White, that fleeting experience outside Gemini IV was the highlight of his life; for us, his legacy lives on each time we wind the crown, set the time, and glance down at the dial, remembering that first brave step into the infinite. 

Now available at www.crownvintage.com.au

Watch is in very good condition with very minimal wear visible on the case and bracelet.

The dial and hands are flawless.