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Crown Vintage

Rolex Explorer 5500 34mm 1960s

Rolex Explorer 5500 34mm 1960s

Regular price $7,250.00 AUD
Regular price Sale price $7,250.00 AUD
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Rolex Explorer 5500 34mm 1960s

The stainless steel case remains in good vintage condition, with natural hairline marks visible from wear but no dents or major damage. Its proportions are preserved, showing the careful use expected of a watch worn and maintained over decades. The watch is fitted with a period-correct 7205 rivet bracelet, also in good condition, showing stretch consistent with honest wear but retaining its original character.

The dial and hands are late 1960s Rolex service replacements and present in good condition, with clean printing and well-preserved luminous material. Purchased directly from the original owner, this watch carries a clear and straightforward history. The owner recalls the gilt dial and hands being replaced during a Rolex service in the late 1960s. Far from detracting, this highlights how Rolex viewed its watches as functional tools. 

The calibre 1530 movement remains in the watch and is running well, reflecting Rolex’s reputation for mechanical durability and ensuring it continues to perform reliably more than half a century after production.

Why we love this watch

The Rolex Explorer 5500 “Precision” — Factual History and Place in the Lineage

In the mid-20th century, Rolex produced a reference 5500 that occupies a curious spot in the Explorer / Air-King / Oyster Perpetual family. For collectors, the 5500 with the 3-6-9 Explorer dial is a hybrid in Rolex’s history-books: a watch built like an Oyster Perpetual / Air-King, but finished with Explorer styling. 

Origins & Production of Ref. 5500

Rolex introduced reference 5500 as part of the Air-King / Oyster Perpetual line around 1957–1958.  It was a simple, durable 34mm steel Oyster case, no date complication, smooth bezel, automatic movement (calibres 1520 and later 1530).  

For approximately a decade (roughly 1958 to 1965-1967 depending on region), Rolex also offered some of these 5500 cases fitted with Explorer-style dials (3-6-9 “Explorer” numerals, Mercedes hands) and black dials, making them visually akin to the larger Explorer references (1016 etc.).  These Explorer-dial 5500s are sometimes called “Explorer 5500” although technically the case, movement, and core structure are identical to the standard Air-King / OP 5500 of the period.  

By about 1967, Rolex appears to have largely discontinued the Explorer-dial 5500 variant. The standard 5500 continued under the Air-King / Oyster Perpetual banner until much later (into the 1980s).  

Characteristics of Early Explorer-Dial 5500s

For early examples (late 1950s through mid-1960s), a few features are reliably documented:

  • Explorer style black (or gloss black) dial with 3, 6, 9 numerals and Mercedes hands.  
  • Below centre, on the lower half of the dial, text usually says “Precision” or “Super Precision” instead of “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified,” because the movement is non-chronometer calibre (1520 or 1530).  
  • Tritium or later luminous compound used once regulatory or supply changes occurred. After about 1963, Rolex marked “T < 25” to indicate tritium lume. Early Explorer-dial 5500s may be among the first with tritium markers.  
  • Small batch production: the Explorer-dial 5500s are considerably rarer than the standard Air-King / OP 5500s.  

Later Service Dials & Swaps

Over time, Rolex servicing practice meant that original dials, hands, or other parts were replaced. For 5500s, this creates several categories of examples today:

  • Those with factory original Explorer-style dials dating from the production period (≈1958-1967).
  • Those that were delivered as standard OP / Air-King 5500s (with baton markers or non-Explorer styling) but later had Explorer dials fitted by Rolex.
  • Those which have service replacement parts (hands, lume, dials) with newer printing or slightly different style.

Collectors try to distinguish “all original” factory combinations from watches that have been modified or serviced with replacement parts, as originality greatly affects desirability and value. The differences lie in printing style (font weight, spacing), lume aging, dial finishing (gloss vs matte), and sometimes the presence or absence of service codes or other identifiers.  

Early Serial-Range Examples

Examples with serial numbers in the 900,000s would place the watch very early in the Explorer-dial 5500 production, likely around 1962–1964 depending on region and movement (1520/1530). This aligns with the period when Rolex began shifting from radium to tritium luminescence, and when regulatory marking “T < 25” became used. So a watch from that range with an Explorer dial is potentially quite early.  

However, if that example has a dial with “Precision” plus the numeral layout + Mercedes hands + Swiss/T < 25 marking, but shows very clean, uniform lume plots, brighter text, etc., it is likely that the dial is one of the later Rolex service dial replacements rather than a factory original dial from 1962-63. 

Factual Corrections & Common Misconceptions

  • It is incorrect to say reference 5500 belonged exclusively to the Explorer line; it was principally Air-King / Oyster Perpetual, and only for a limited period was Explorer styling applied to some.  
  • The term “Explorer 5500” is a colloquial or collecting community term rather than a reference officially always marketed in all regions as “Explorer 5500.” Rolex catalogs sometimes included Explorer 5500s, especially in Commonwealth markets, but many were simply catalogued as OP / Air-King 5500s.  
  • The presence of “Super Precision” text on some Explorer dials of 5500 ref corresponded to movement / production subtypes (often calibre 1530 in certain regions) but is not always consistent.  

Final Thoughts


Rolex’s reference 5500 occupies a fascinating middle ground between the Oyster Perpetual, Air-King, and Explorer lines. Early 1960s examples fitted with Explorer dials are rare and highly desirable, with serials in the 900,000 range representing the very start of this crossover experiment. This particular watch sits firmly in that story. Powered by the calibre 1530, it carries the stronger of the two movements offered in the reference, giving it a connection to Rolex’s more robust sports models of the period.

Purchased directly from the original owner, the watch retains its honest history. The owner recalls the dial and hands being replaced in the late 1960s, a common Rolex service practice at the time, and entirely consistent with the “Precision” service dial it wears today. Rather than detract, this narrative highlights how Rolex treated its watches as living, evolving tools — maintained and updated to keep them functional and aligned with the brand’s standards.

Adding to its appeal is the correct 7205 rivet bracelet, a period bracelet that complements the slim 34mm Oyster case and brings a welcome sense of completeness to the watch. For collectors, service-dial Explorers like this one may not command the premiums of untouched originals, but they offer a more accessible entry point into the Explorer story while still being wholly authentic Rolex.

Taken together, this example demonstrates why the 5500 remains such a compelling watch. It shows Rolex at its most pragmatic, blurring the line between model families, and it continues to wear with understated charm. For those who appreciate the Explorer aesthetic but prefer the smaller 34mm format, or those who want a piece of Rolex’s less linear, more experimental past, the Explorer 5500 “Precision” delivers on both history and character.

Case & Bracelet

Case in good vintage condition. Hairlines visible but no dents or major wear. Bracelet in good condition. Period correct rivet with some stretch visible from honest wear.

Dial & Hands

Dial and hands are late 1960s replacement and in good condition.

Warranty & Condition

Crown Vintage Watches provides a minimum 3-month mechanical warranty on pre-owned watches, from the date of purchase. 

The warranty covers mechanical defects only.

The warranty does not cover damages such as scratches, finish, crystals, glass, straps (leather, fabric or rubber damage due to wear and tear), damage resulting from wear under conditions exceeding the watch manufacturer’s water resistance limitations, and damage due to physical and or accidental abuse.

Please note, water resistance is neither tested nor guaranteed.

Shipping and insurance costs for warranty returns to us must be covered by the customer. Returns must be shipped via traceable courier. Return shipment must be pre-paid and fully insured. Collect shipping will be refused. In case of loss or damages, the customer is liable.

Our Pledge

At Crown Vintage Watches, we stand by the authenticity of every product we sell. For added peace of mind, customers are welcome to have items independently authenticated at their own expense.

Condition

Due to the nature of vintage timepieces, all watches are sold as is. We will accurately describe the current condition and working order of all watches we sell to the best of our ability.

Shipping & Refund

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