Rolex Explorer II 40MM 16570 Black Dial Tritium 1995

The Rolex Explorer II Reference 16570: The Ultimate Under-the-Radar Tool Watch

The Rolex Explorer II 16570, made between 1989 through 2011, is a more low-key model in comparison to its more attention-grabbing cousins, the Submariner or the GMT-Master II. However, for those who admire a no-frills, purpose-built tool watch, the 16570 has achieved cult status.

A Short History

The Explorer line debuted in 1971 with the model reference number 1655. Dubbed the ‘Steve McQueen’—despite McQueen never wearing such a watch—the 1655 was intended for spelunkers, having a stationary 24-hour bezel and a vibrant orange 24-hour hand in a bid to discern between daylight and nighttime in low-light conditions.

The 16570, launched in 1989, was a development of the original 16550 reference. It was fitted with the Caliber 3185 (later replaced by the 3186 in the early 2000s) and boasted the traditional combination of a screwed down stainless steel bezel with 24-hour graduations, a GMT hand for a second-time-zone display, and a three o’clock date display with a cyclops lens.

Design and Appearance

Unlike some of the other Rolexes, such as the Submariner or GMT-Master II, that later received edition upgrades in the form of ceramic bezels and more substantial cases, the 16570 stuck with a conservative 40mm case during its production cycle. It has a streamlined profile with a drilled-lug case, keeping it very comfortable to wear.

Presented in black or white dial variations (‘Polar’), the 16570 is versatile according to the collector’s taste. The Polar-dial, with a white face accompanied by black hands, is highly legible and has been in strong demand in recent years. The black dial, conversely, presents a more classic, stealth style.

The Movement: Caliber 3185 vs. Caliber 3186

Between 1989 and the early years of the 2000s, the 16570 was equipped with the Caliber 3185, a stalwart movement capable of independent adjustment of the hour hand. Subsequent models used the new Caliber 3186, enhancing the accuracy of the GMT hand through a more refined jumping action.

Collectors commonly discuss the superiority of the 3185 or the 3186, with some enjoying the marginally more relaxed feel of the 3185 due to its historic appeal. Others value the technical sophistication of the 3186, giving later examples a preference from those in search of accuracy.

Collectability and Market Trends

The 16570 has become more popular in recent years. One of the reasons is that it is one of the more affordable sports Rolex models, even as it gains in collectability. The Polar dial variants, particularly the variants with the Caliber 3186, have experienced substantial price rises, but black dial options are still good value.

The drilled lug holes, discontinued by Rolex in their other models in the early 2000s, are especially attractive for collectors who are fond of the traditional tool-watch style. The reduced 40mm size of the case also renders it ideal for anyone who feels modern-day Rolex sports models are too bulky.

Practicality and Wearability

Aside from its value as a collector’s timepiece, the 16570 is a prevalently practical watch. Its water resistance of 100 meters, strong stainless steel casing, and trustworthy movement ensure it’s a good choice for everyday wear. The GMT feature, permitting second-time-zone monitoring, contributes further practicality for business or travel use.

Moreover, the reduced case thickness of the 16570 allows it to fit neatly under a cuff or complement relaxed dressing equally well. The watch is a real tool watch, never trying too hard to call attention itself.

Conclusion

The Explorer II 16570 is a highly desirable model for those who appreciate practicality, understated design, and a dash of Rolex heritage in a more subdued setting. It’s a sleeper success in the Rolex collection, possessing a sufficient number of distinct features to stand out as a popular selection among collectors and aficionados. Regardless of whether the Polar or black dial is your taste, the 16570 brings a breath of fresh air in a world where Rolex designs are more luxury-driven than ever before. Its charm is in its subtlety—a real tool watch that is gaining more respect from serious collectors.

• Case remains very sharp for its age, has received a light polish. 
• Factor chamfers remain visible 
• Bracelet in very good condition, light hairlines can be visible. 

The dial and hands are in flawless condition.