Rolex Explorer II: An Expanded Historical Perspective

Origins: From Darkness to Daylight (1971–1974)

The Explorer II emerged in 1971 as reference 1655, a watch conceived for professionals who operated where ordinary daylight cues disappeared—speleologists mapping cave systems, Arctic researchers enduring months of continuous sun, and deep-mine geologists. Rolex solved their time-orientation problem by fixing a 24-hour bezel to a steel Oyster case and adding a bright orange arrow hand geared to circle the dial once per day. With bezel and hand locked together, wearers could distinguish AM from PM at a glance, even in pitch black or relentless midday sun.

Unlike the original Explorer I, which took its name from Himalayan mountaineering exploits, the 1655 served a narrower technical brief. Its busy dial, minute-track hash marks and static bezel set it apart from the better-known GMT-Master, whose rotating insert offered three-zone flexibility for airline pilots. The Explorer II was instead the specialist’s instrument: purposeful, legible and tuned to a single environmental challenge. Production ran only until 1984, leaving relatively few in circulation and cementing the 1655’s reputation among collectors.

Transitional Years and Modernisation (1985–1988)

Rolex revisited the concept in 1985 with reference 16550. The watch retained the 40 mm footprint but looked far more contemporary: sapphire crystal replaced acrylic, calibre 3085 introduced independent jumping of the 12-hour hand, and the dial was offered in black or white—the first appearance of the now-famous “Polar” colourway. The fixed bezel’s font was enlarged and cleaned up, improving readability at a glance.

In hindsight the 16550 acted as a bridge. Rolex’s experimental white paint batches occasionally aged into a pleasing cream tone, while black dials suffered spider-web cracking under certain temperatures. Those quirks led Rolex to move quickly to the next reference, but they also gave the 16550 a brief, distinctive personality that still intrigues enthusiasts today.

Consolidation and Long Production: Reference 16570 (1989–2011)

Launched in 1989, the 16570 became the definitive Explorer II for more than two decades. It shared the same 40 mm case as its predecessor yet remedied dial-paint and crystal issues, standardised on the high-beat calibre 3185, and gradually adopted incremental improvements such as solid bracelets and, later, calibre 3186 with a Parachrom hairspring.

Early examples (1989-1997) used tritium lume and drilled lug holes, giving them a distinctly vintage flavour. Late 1998 ushered in Luminova, and for roughly two years the dial read simply SWISS at six o’clock—an easy visual cue for watches made in 1999. Later models switched to the familiar SWISS MADE line, phased out lug holes, adopted solid end links and, eventually, gained the updated 3186 movement.

Throughout this period the Explorer II remained relatively understated compared with the Submariner and GMT-Master II, a fact that kept prices accessible and ensured the model found genuine working-tool owners: Antarctic field teams, mining engineers and commercial surveyors who valued clarity and shock resistance over luxury signalling.

Up-Sizing for a New Era: Reference 216570 (2011–2021)

For the Explorer II’s fortieth anniversary Rolex departed from the long-serving 40 mm template. Reference 216570 grew to 42 mm, reintroduced the oversized orange arrow hand as a nod to the 1655, and debuted the calibre 3187 with Paraflex shock absorbers. Chromalight lume replaced Super-Luminova, glowing ice-blue instead of green.

While these updates met modern tastes for larger cases, they also marked a philosophical shift. The Explorer II was no longer the discreet specialist; it now stood shoulder-to-shoulder with Rolex’s higher-profile sports models, backed by advertising that emphasised polar exploration and high-altitude rescue rather than subterranean mapping.

The Contemporary Iteration: Reference 226570 (2021–present)

To celebrate the model’s fiftieth year, Rolex refined rather than reinvented the Explorer II. It remained 42 mm but adopted slimmer lugs, a slightly thinner case profile and the calibre 3285 with a 70-hour power reserve. The fixed bezel returned to a crisper font, and subtle dial tweaks improved contrast without altering the familiar polar-versus-black choice. In effect, the 226570 consolidated the lessons of the previous decade, offering modern movement technology while tempering visual bulk.

Five Constant Design Pillars Across All Generations

• Fixed 24-hour bezel – Prevents accidental mis-setting in gloves or darkness.
• Twin-hand architecture – Local 12-hour hand plus independently set 24-hour hand give instant day-night or second-time-zone reading.
• Oyster case construction – Screw-down crown and back yield at least 100 m water resistance, crucial for ice-field crews and wet cave systems.
• High-contrast dial markings – Large indices and broad hands prioritise legibility ahead of ornament.
• Steel-only ethos – Until very recently, Rolex never produced an Explorer II in precious metal, underscoring the model’s utilitarian core.

Why the Explorer II Stayed Niche for So Long

Rolex’s own catalogue positioned the Explorer II below the Submariner and GMT-Master in glamour yet above the Air-King and Explorer I in complexity. That middle ground gave it a dedicated but modest following. On the secondary market the watch was often a sleeper, purchased by professionals who needed its function rather than by collectors chasing status. Only in the past decade has wider enthusiasm grown, as enthusiasts realised that long production runs mask subtle, year-by-year changes—tritium versus Luminova, lug-hole versus no-hole, 3185 versus 3186—that reward deep study.

Legacy and Influence

While the Explorer II never starred in as many films or celebrity photo-ops as the Daytona, it influenced the broader sports-watch landscape in quieter ways. Brands ranging from Sinn to Tudor have adopted fixed 24-hour bezels paired with bright GMT hands, targeting the same audience of adventurers who value absolute reliability over convertible multi-scale systems. Meanwhile, Rolex’s steadfast refusal to gild the Explorer II with precious metals until a 2023 yellow-gold variant emphasises the model’s role as the brand’s last all-steel expedition tool.

Final thoughts

Across five decades the Explorer II has moved from a single-purpose cave companion to a versatile dual-time sports watch, evolving through careful, incremental engineering rather than sweeping redesigns. Its fixed bezel, dual-hand layout and steel-only discipline speak to Rolex’s original brief: deliver absolute legibility and durability where daylight fails. Whether you pick a 1970s 1655 for its quirky dial, a 1999 Luminova 16570 for its balanced charm, or a modern 226570 for its extended power reserve, each Explorer II remains anchored to a mission that prioritises function over flash—a design philosophy that continues to resonate with wearers who value true utility.

Case in very good condition. Sharp, unpolished lugs. Factory brushing and Chamfers visible and intact. Bracelet in great condition. Minimal wear and stretch visible. Bezel unpolished.

Excellent condition. Light patina.