Rolex Explorer II Polar 40MM 16570 | 2000 Box & Papers

Rolex Explorer II 16570 Polar Dial (2000): The Quiet Achiever of the Tool Watch World

Introduction

Launched in 1989 and produced until 2011, the Rolex Explorer II reference 16570 is the understated sibling in the sports Rolex line-up. While the GMT-Master II and Submariner have long captured the spotlight, the Explorer II has quietly carved out its own niche. The 16570 is a true tool watch—rugged, legible, and purpose-driven. And in its white dial “Polar” guise, it offers something visually distinctive and immediately recognisable to seasoned collectors. The year 2000 sits comfortably in the middle of its production run, representing a sweet spot where build quality, movement updates, and old-school charm align.

A Tool Watch With a Purpose

Origins of the Explorer II

The original Explorer II was born in 1971 with the reference 1655, designed for spelunkers—cave explorers who needed to differentiate day from night in pitch-black conditions. That first reference had a bold, quirky dial and a fixed 24-hour bezel. When Rolex released the 16570 nearly two decades later, the watch retained the core concept but was refined in line with the brand’s broader design language.

Practical Design and Case Dimensions

With a 40mm Oystersteel case, the 16570 feels compact by modern standards but hits the wrist just right for traditionalists. The case is all brushed on the lugs and case flanks, giving it a no-nonsense tool watch aesthetic. The polished sides of the bezel inject just enough contrast to keep things interesting, but this is far from a watch trying to be flashy. Its Twinlock crown offers solid water resistance to 100 metres, though the Explorer II was never intended as a diver—it’s more suited to mountains than oceans.

Fixed Bezel Functionality

The fixed 24-hour bezel is a defining feature. While the GMT-Master II allows for rotating bezels and tracking multiple time zones, the Explorer II opts for simplicity and legibility. The brushed steel bezel is engraved with black-filled numerals at two-hour intervals from 2 to 24, allowing for easy orientation with the independently adjustable 24-hour hand. In true Rolex fashion, the engraving is clean and deep, and unlike ceramic, it wears its scars as badges of honour rather than blemishes.

The Iconic Polar Dial

White Dial, Black Accents

The real showstopper here is the white lacquer dial—the reason it’s called the Polar. In a world where most sports watches are black or dark-toned, the crisp, snow-white dial feels like a breath of alpine air. On models from 2000, the dial features glossy black surrounds on the hour markers and hands, a design tweak that enhances contrast and readability. Earlier examples had white gold surrounds, but the switch to black gave the watch a sharper, more tool-like edge.

Lume and Legibility

The hands and hour plots are filled with Super-LumiNova by this point (Rolex transitioned away from tritium around 1998), so there’s no radioactive material to worry about and lume performance remains strong. The white dial reflects ambient light well and enhances readability in both low light and harsh glare—arguably one of the most legible Rolex sport watches ever made.

Under the Hood: Calibre 3185

Independent 24-Hour Hand

At the heart of the 2000 Rolex Explorer II 16570 is the in-house calibre 3185. This movement is a workhorse, sharing its base with the GMT-Master II of the same era. It features a 28,800 vph beat rate, a 50-hour power reserve, and a Parachrom hairspring for added shock and temperature resistance.

Practical GMT Functionality

Most importantly, the calibre 3185 allows for independent setting of the 24-hour hand, meaning it functions as a true GMT—you can track a second time zone without affecting the main timekeeping. For travellers, it’s a genuine advantage. For desk pilots, it’s an enjoyable and practical complication to play with.

Serviceability and Longevity

The movement sits within a solid, no-display caseback that’s threaded for security and fitted with Rolex’s typical gaskets and screw-down construction. There’s no exhibitionism here—just reliability. Technicians appreciate the architecture, and collectors appreciate its reputation for decades of consistent performance.

Bracelet, Build, and Wearability

Oyster Bracelet Details

The 16570 came standard on the Oyster bracelet reference 78790, with solid outer links and hollow end links. The clasp features a folding safety lock and a stamped metal construction—robust, if slightly dated. The bracelet is comfortable and securely fitted, though a little rattle from the end links serves as a reminder you’re wearing something with a bit of vintage character.

Case Finishing and Comfort

By the year 2000, Rolex had tightened up its manufacturing consistency. Case lines are crisper, dial printing is clean, and tolerances are better than on earlier examples. The case wears flat and balanced, with the lugs and bezel forming a cohesive unit that feels at home on the wrist, whether over a sleeve or bare against the skin.

Drilled Lugs and Strap Potential

Drilled lugs—present on this era of Explorer II—make strap changes a breeze. It’s a small feature, but one that matters for those who like to switch it up. The white dial pairs easily with NATO straps, leather, or rubber, making this one of the most adaptable Rolex tool watches from a styling perspective.

Why the 2000 Reference Hits the Sweet Spot

A Transitional Era

Collectors who seek out the year 2000 specifically find themselves at a point in Rolex production that straddles two eras. You still get classic details like the drilled lugs and the pre-ceramic bezel, but you also get updated lume and improved case tolerances. It’s a watch with one foot in the past and another in the future.

Aesthetics Without the Flash

The 16570 Polar doesn’t try to be flashy. Its matte-finished bezel, brushed steel case, and stark dial give it a purposeful look that aligns with its name. This is a watch made for expeditions, whether you’re actually climbing mountains or just navigating Monday morning.

Wearable Every Day

With its 40mm diameter, modest thickness, and light wrist presence, the Explorer II 16570 is one of the easiest Rolex sport models to wear daily. It’s also refreshingly under-the-radar. In a world obsessed with ceramic bezels and hulking case sizes, this reference offers balance, simplicity, and functionality.

The Polar Appeal

A Dial With Character

There’s something undeniably clean and modern about the Polar dial. And yet, over time, these dials develop subtle changes—gentle creaminess, hairline cracks in the lacquer, or faded orange on the 24-hour hand. These signs of age don’t detract from the watch. If anything, they enhance its story.

What makes the 16570 so compelling is its refusal to overreach. There’s no unnecessary embellishment. No precious metal variants. No ceramic. No exhibition caseback. It’s all function, with just enough form to make it handsome on the wrist.

While the Explorer II 16570 remained relatively underappreciated during its production run, it has since become a favourite among enthusiasts who value design purity and historical continuity. It has the credibility of a Rolex, but none of the hype.

Final Thoughts

The Rolex Explorer II 16570 is a study in quiet capability. It doesn’t have the Submariner’s fame, the GMT’s rotating bezel, or the Daytona’s hype. But that’s precisely why it appeals. This is a watch built for use, not display. Its white dial sets it apart, its 24-hour hand makes it functional, and its modest proportions ensure it wears with confidence but not arrogance.

For collectors who appreciate function, history, and a bit of low-key charm, the 16570 is one of the most compelling Rolex sports watches of the last three decades.

  In mint condition.

• Dial & hands flawless