Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 16700 

A Bridge Between Eras

When Rolex introduced the GMT-Master reference 16700 in 1988, few realised it would be the final chapter in the original GMT-Master line. The model bowed out quietly in 1999, yet it served as a crucial link between the aluminium-bezel classics of the mid-twentieth century and the independently handed GMT-Master II that would soon dominate airport lounges. A 1991 example lands squarely in the middle of that production run, offering modern convenience without surrendering the charm that defined the model’s early decades. In a world still adjusting to the first wave of globalisation, the 16700 gave travellers a reliable way to track home and destination times while retaining the svelte profile associated with earlier references.

From Jet-Age Origins to the Early Nineties

The GMT-Master story began in 1955, when Pan American World Airways asked Rolex for a wristwatch that could display two time zones simultaneously. The answer—reference 6542—paired a red-and-blue bezel insert with a fourth, 24-hour hand. Over the next three decades the reference numbers changed, the movements improved, and crowns grew larger, yet the basic recipe held firm. By 1991 commercial air travel had become routine for businesspeople and holiday-makers alike, and the Berlin Wall had fallen, throwing open fresh destinations across Europe. The needs of the flying public had evolved: they wanted rugged reliability, a crystal that brushed off scratches, and a quick-set date so appointments were never missed. The 16700 delivered all three while preserving the intuitive dual-time layout that had proven itself.

Why 1991 Matters

Serial numbers beginning with late “X” and early “N” letters identify most 1991 cases, situating them firmly in the tritium era. Dials from this year carry the SWISS-T < 25 designation at six o’clock, signalling luminous material that glows a warm green before ageing gracefully to creamy beige. By the late nineties Rolex shifted to LumiNova, erasing that future patina. Consequently, a 1991 dial represents a sweet spot: it combines the benefits of a sapphire crystal—first adopted on the GMT-Master with the reference 16750—with the attractive ageing potential collectors admire. Although we are not delving into collectability here, understanding the historical context clarifies why 1991 references hold such narrative weight within the lineage.

Case and Bezel Design

Rolex machines the 40 mm Oyster case from corrosion-resistant 904L stainless steel, offering both structural integrity and a bright lustre that responds well to careful polishing. At roughly 12 mm thick, the watch sits closer to the wrist than later ceramic-bezel GMT-Master II models, a trait many owners cite when choosing the 16700 for everyday wear. Drilled lug holes simplify strap swaps, and squared crown guards frame a Triplock winding crown that screws down firmly for a rated water-resistance of 100 m—ample for most weekend swims.

The bidirectional bezel remains the watch’s most recognisable feature. Crafted from anodised aluminium, its upper half wears a deep ocean-blue while the lower half glows bright red, evoking the Pan Am livery that inspired the original design. Aluminium offers the benefit of organic ageing, shifting slowly towards lighter sky-blue and raspberry hues under strong Australian sunlight. The tactile click has just enough resistance to prevent accidental knocks, and the 24-hour scale engraved around the insert allows quick mental arithmetic when referencing the red hand.

Dial and Hands

The glossy black lacquer dial presents a clean, uncluttered face. Applied white-gold hour markers are filled with tritium and framed by polished surrounds that catch ambient light. Because the 16700 lacks an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, Rolex resisted the temptation to add extra dial text. You will not find a “II” under the brand’s coronet, and that absence grants the model a balanced, almost symmetrical aesthetic.

Rolex pairs the dial with a familiar hand set: Mercedes hour, faceted minute, red GMT, and a lollipop seconds. In their youth the tritium areas glowed vividly; over decades they mellow, creating a pleasing tonal match with similarly aged hour plots. The GMT hand’s triangular tip sweeps the dial once per day, referencing the 24-hour bezel to indicate home time while the main hands track local. Setting procedure is straightforward: unscrew the crown, pull to the second position, adjust the date, then hack the seconds to sync with a time signal before pushing everything back in.

Movement: Calibre 3175

Hidden behind the screw-down case-back lies calibre 3175, produced exclusively for the 16700 between 1988 and 1999. Beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, it provides 48 hours of power reserve and boasts a full balance bridge for stability. Rolex equips the movement with a free-sprung balance and Micro-Stella screws, allowing precise regulation without regulator pins that can drift if jarred. The quick-set date function, operated through the crown’s first pulled position, sidesteps the slow midnight-advancement routine older GMT-Master owners once endured.

Importantly, the GMT hand remains geared directly to the hour wheel, meaning local and home hours advance together when correcting the time. Some see this as a limitation compared with the jumping-hour feature of the GMT-Master II, yet the simpler construction keeps the movement thinner and slightly lighter. With fewer pivoting components, there is less to wear out, encouraging long-term reliability for owners who value a worry-free travel companion.

Bracelet and Wearing Experience

Rolex supplied 1991 watches primarily on the three-link Oyster bracelet reference 78360, featuring hollow end links stamped 501B. Tapering from 20 mm at the lugs to 16 mm at the folding clasp, it offers a balanced combination of robustness and comfort. A handful of watches left the factory on Jubilee bracelets, though the graceful drape of the Oyster remains the archetype many envisage when picturing a GMT-Master.

On the wrist the 16700 feels remarkably contemporary despite being more than three decades old. Its moderate weight allows all-day wear without wrist fatigue, and the case back sits flat, so it never tips awkwardly during vigorous activity. The subtle chamfers on the outer edges of the lugs catch afternoon light while avoiding the slab-sided effect of thicker modern sports models. Many owners enjoy the flexibility of swapping between the original steel bracelet and a stitched leather strap or NATO for weekend variety. Thanks to the drilled lugs this operation takes seconds with a simple spring-bar tool.

Everyday Functionality in the Modern World

While smartphones place world clocks at our fingertips, the intuitive glanceable nature of an analogue dual-time display remains unbeaten when boarding flights or coordinating with colleagues across time zones. The red 24-hour hand shines against the black dial, ensuring home time is legible at a glance. Commuters appreciate that quick-set date—one twist sets the correct numeral without disturbing minute accuracy.

Anti-reflective coating lives beneath the surface, preserving its scratch resistance while granting dial clarity in harsh Queensland sun. For those who spend weekends on the water, the Triplock crown and gaskets protect the movement during casual swims or unexpected rain showers; just remember to rinse off salt afterwards.

When paired with contemporary attire, the 16700 walks a neat line between sport and formality. It slips under a cuff during board meetings yet appears unfazed perched above a wetsuit. That versatility stems from its proportions: 40 mm is large enough to feel purposeful but not so wide that it dominates slender wrists. Many modern watches chase incremental millimetres in diameter; the 16700 quietly proves that balance matters more than raw size.

Final Thoughts

The Rolex GMT-Master reference 16700 distils everything that made the original GMT concept a success while sprinkling in practical updates for a fast-changing world. Its aluminium “Pepsi” bezel carries the romantic echoes of the jet age, whereas its sapphire crystal, quick-set date, and slim calibre 3175 meet the expectations of present-day travellers. At 40 millimetres across and just over a dozen millimetres thick, it offers a comfortable all-rounder suited to business flights, coastal weekends, and everything in between. Ownership rewards those who appreciate clarity, simplicity, and a design language honed over decades rather than reinvented overnight. In an era of increasingly complex sports watches, the 16700’s straightforward dual-time solution feels refreshingly honest—proof that refinement often lies not in adding functions but in perfecting the essentials.

Excellent condition.

Dial and hands are flawless.