The Rolex GMT-Master 1675/3: A Two-Tone Icon

Introduction

Among the many references that define the Rolex GMT-Master lineage, the 1675/3 occupies a particularly interesting place. Introduced during an era when Rolex was expanding its horizons beyond utilitarian steel tool watches, this two-tone variant signalled a deliberate move towards pairing functionality with a more luxurious aesthetic. While the steel GMT-Master was closely associated with airline pilots and the golden age of aviation, the steel and yellow-gold 1675/3 extended the model’s reach, appealing to those who wanted the technical innovation of a GMT complication with the elegance of precious metal.

The Origins of the GMT-Master

To understand the 1675/3, it is necessary to look at the origins of the GMT-Master itself. The line was born in the mid-1950s through Rolex’s collaboration with Pan American Airways. Long-haul pilots faced the practical challenge of tracking multiple time zones as intercontinental travel became more routine. Rolex’s answer was the GMT-Master reference 6542, which introduced the concept of a fourth hand and a rotating 24-hour bezel. This simple yet ingenious solution enabled the wearer to track home time and local time simultaneously, a feature that became indispensable for commercial pilots.

The 6542 was soon replaced by the 1675, which became the cornerstone reference of the GMT-Master line and remained in production for two decades. The 1675 brought crown guards, improved water resistance, and a more robust calibre, establishing the GMT-Master as both a professional tool and a stylish wristwatch for an increasingly globalised world.

The Birth of the 1675/3

While the original GMT-Master was positioned as a professional instrument, Rolex recognised an emerging demand for watches that combined technical functionality with a more refined appearance. By the late 1960s, steel tool watches were being embraced not only by pilots but also by executives and travellers who wanted a watch that could transition effortlessly between business and leisure.

It was in this context that the 1675/3 was introduced. This two-tone GMT-Master, crafted in stainless steel and yellow gold, represented a shift in Rolex’s strategy. It kept all the technical attributes of the standard 1675—crown guards, rotating bezel, and the calibre 1575 movement—but added the warmth of gold to the case, bezel, and bracelet. This combination not only elevated the watch aesthetically but also expanded its appeal beyond the cockpit to the boardroom and social settings.

Case and Bezel Design

The case of the 1675/3 remained at 40mm, consistent with the steel version, but incorporated yellow gold in its bezel and crown. This subtle addition transformed the watch’s presence on the wrist, giving it a richer, more elegant appearance. The bezel insert for the 1675/3 was typically brown with a golden 24-hour scale, a departure from the iconic blue-and-red “Pepsi” insert of the steel GMT-Master. This brown-and-gold configuration became a hallmark of the reference, earning it the nickname “Root Beer” among watch circles.

The use of brown, a relatively uncommon colour in the Rolex palette at the time, gave the watch a distinct personality. Paired with the gilt numerals on the insert, the bezel design reinforced the blend of functionality and refinement that the 1675/3 represented.

Dial Variants

One of the most striking features of the 1675/3 was its dial execution. The watch could be found with glossy brown “nipple” dials, characterised by applied gold hour markers with small luminous plots. These dials, with their warm tones and applied markers, created a luxurious aesthetic that differentiated the two-tone model from its purely steel counterpart.

Later production examples saw matte dials replacing the glossy versions, with more conventional rectangular and circular markers, though the golden surrounds and detailing remained. This shift followed broader changes in Rolex’s production during the 1970s, as the brand moved towards more durable and legible dial designs. Both dial types today are emblematic of their production periods and showcase the evolution of Rolex’s approach to balancing functionality with luxury.

The Calibre 1575 Movement

At the heart of the 1675/3 was the Rolex calibre 1575, an automatic movement with hacking seconds. The calibre 1575 was an evolution of the 1565, offering increased balance frequency for improved accuracy. It remained a reliable workhorse movement, known for its durability and precision.

While the 1675/3 did not yet feature the independently adjustable GMT hand that would arrive with later GMT-Master II models, it allowed the wearer to track a second time zone by rotating the bezel, a system that was simple yet effective. The calibre 1575 cemented the watch’s role as a functional travel companion, even as its external appearance leaned towards luxury.

Bracelet Options

Rolex offered the 1675/3 with a choice of bracelets that further enhanced its versatility. The two-tone Oyster bracelet (reference 7836/78363) emphasised the sporty roots of the model, while the two-tone Jubilee bracelet (reference 6251/62523) added an extra touch of elegance. Both options featured gold centre links flanked by steel, reinforcing the visual harmony of the case and bezel design.

The Jubilee bracelet, with its five-link construction, was particularly well suited to the 1675/3, as its dressier appearance aligned perfectly with the watch’s role as a refined alternative to the all-steel GMT-Master.

A Reflection of Its Era

The introduction of the 1675/3 was not merely a technical update but also a reflection of changing tastes during the late 1960s and 1970s. The global travel boom had transformed international air travel from a novelty into a more accessible mode of transportation for business and leisure. The GMT-Master had already established itself as the definitive travel watch, and the two-tone variant extended its relevance to a broader audience.

The 1675/3 fit neatly into the cultural mood of its time. The combination of steel and gold mirrored wider trends in jewellery and luxury accessories, where two-tone designs gained popularity for their versatility. The brown and gold palette of the 1675/3 evoked the warm tones associated with the design sensibilities of the era, making the watch a quintessential product of its time.

The “Root Beer” Identity

The nickname “Root Beer” is often used to describe the 1675/3, referencing its distinctive brown-and-gold bezel and dial combination. Some variations also earned the moniker “Clint Eastwood,” after the actor was frequently photographed wearing his personal 1675/3. This association with Eastwood added to the watch’s cultural cachet and cemented its reputation as both stylish and rugged.

While Rolex itself never used these nicknames, they highlight how the 1675/3 resonated beyond its technical specifications. The watch carried an aura that blended the professional aviation heritage of the GMT-Master with a distinctly cinematic and luxurious character.

Evolution and Transition

The production run of the 1675/3 extended across a significant period, during which the model evolved subtly in line with broader changes in Rolex’s design philosophy. Early glossy dials gave way to matte finishes, and changes in bracelet construction reflected Rolex’s ongoing refinement of its watches.

Eventually, the 1675/3 was succeeded by newer references such as the 16753, which carried the two-tone GMT-Master into the 1980s with updated movements and design cues. However, the 1675/3 remains notable as the reference that first introduced the idea of a steel-and-gold GMT-Master, a concept that Rolex continues to embrace in its current GMT-Master II models.

Historical Significance

The historical importance of the 1675/3 lies in its role as a transitional piece within the GMT-Master family. It demonstrated Rolex’s ability to adapt a professional tool watch to the tastes of an evolving audience, without compromising the core functionality that defined the model. The steel GMT-Master was the quintessential pilot’s companion, but the 1675/3 showed that the same design could be elevated into a watch suitable for more refined settings.

This dual identity—practical and luxurious—has become a hallmark of Rolex’s approach in subsequent decades. Today, nearly every Rolex professional model is available in two-tone configurations, from the Submariner to the Daytona. The 1675/3 was among the pioneers of this approach, laying the groundwork for a new category of sports-luxury watches that remains central to Rolex’s appeal.

Final Thoughts

The Rolex GMT-Master 1675/3 stands as a landmark in the brand’s history, representing the moment when Rolex began to consciously blend the robustness of its professional line with the refinement of precious metal. Its brown-and-gold aesthetic, distinctive “nipple” dial, and versatile bracelet options gave it a unique identity that set it apart from its all-steel counterpart.

Beyond its technical credentials, the 1675/3 reflects the cultural and design sensibilities of the late 1960s and 1970s, a period of expanding international travel and evolving luxury tastes. It proved that a tool watch could also serve as a statement piece, foreshadowing the future direction of Rolex’s professional models.

• Case in very good vintage condition. Light hairlines visible.
• Factory chamfers and brushing visible.
• Folded jubilee in great condition with some stretch and light hairlines

• Dial and hands in very good condition.
• Hands are lightly oxidised with light patina forming.