Rolex GMT Master II 16710 'Pink Lady' 40mm 1999

Rolex GMT-Master II 16710 “Pink Lady”

Introduction

There are few watches that capture the imagination of vintage Rolex fans quite like the GMT-Master II reference 16710, particularly the version known affectionately as the “Pink Lady.” What makes it special is not a design tweak from Rolex, but something that time itself has done. Its once vibrant red and blue “Pepsi” bezel has softened into gentle pastel shades, with the red fading to a distinctive pink tone. It is a transformation that cannot be replicated artificially, a reminder that watches, like people, develop character as they age.

The 16710 represents the last of a certain kind of Rolex. It sits at the crossroads between vintage and modern, blending the proportions and simplicity of earlier tool watches with the precision and reliability of a more contemporary movement. The Pink Lady, in particular, shows how gracefully the GMT-Master II has aged, turning a robust pilot’s watch into something quietly elegant.

The Origins of the GMT-Master Line

The story of the GMT-Master begins in the 1950s, when international air travel was still glamorous and new. Pan American Airways approached Rolex to create a watch for its long-haul pilots, who needed to track two time zones at once while navigating across continents. Rolex responded with the GMT-Master reference 6542, a watch that would go on to become one of the most recognisable designs in the history of horology.

Its defining feature was the two-tone 24-hour bezel, divided into red for daylight hours and blue for night. It was functional and intuitive, allowing pilots to read both local and home time at a glance. As commercial aviation expanded, the GMT-Master became a symbol of global travel, adorning the wrists of professionals and adventurers alike.

Over the following decades, Rolex refined the design with references such as the 1675 and 16750, improving movements, case construction, and materials. When the GMT-Master II arrived, it introduced a technical leap forward: an independently adjustable local hour hand. This simple but brilliant feature allowed travellers to change time zones without stopping the movement, a function that remains at the heart of the GMT line to this day.

The Reference 16710

The GMT-Master II 16710 arrived as Rolex was moving into a new era. It carried forward the traditional 40mm case, the rotating 24-hour bezel, and the unmistakable look that defined the GMT series. Yet it introduced refinements that made it more robust, reliable, and versatile.

It came in three bezel variations: the red and blue “Pepsi,” the black and red “Coke,” and the understated all-black version. The Pepsi, of course, became the most recognisable. Inside was the calibre 3185, a movement built entirely by Rolex and certified as a chronometer. It delivered precision, durability, and the convenience of that independent hour hand adjustment.

The case, crafted from stainless steel, housed a sapphire crystal with the familiar cyclops lens magnifying the date. It was waterproof to 100 metres thanks to the Triplock crown system, and its brushed lugs and polished case sides struck a perfect balance between utility and refinement.

The 16710 was a true transitional model. It retained the classic proportions of vintage Rolex sports watches, long before the brand introduced the chunkier “Super Case” design. This balance between old and new is a key reason why many see the 16710 as the sweet spot of the GMT-Master lineage.

The “Pink Lady” and the Art of Fading

The “Pink Lady” nickname refers to a natural transformation that occurs in some 16710 watches fitted with aluminium “Pepsi” bezels. Over years of sunlight exposure, moisture, and wear, the red portion of the bezel fades to a soft pink. The blue often lightens too, taking on a more pastel shade. This fading isn’t a flaw; it’s the watch’s story written in colour.

Each example fades differently. Some turn pale and uniform, others develop a more gradient effect where the tones shift across the bezel. The result is that no two Pink Ladies are ever quite the same. For many, that uniqueness is what makes them so desirable.

Modern Rolex bezels made of ceramic are engineered to remain unchanged, immune to the effects of time and light. They are technically impressive but lack the individuality that older aluminium inserts offer. The Pink Lady, by contrast, wears its history proudly. The soft colours are a reminder that perfection can sometimes be found in imperfection, that beauty can come from use and age.

Bezel Evolution and Character

The aluminium bezel inserts of the 16710 define the watch’s identity. Lightweight and practical, they offered vivid colour and clarity when new. But aluminium, unlike ceramic, reacts to its environment. Exposure to sunlight and saltwater gradually changes its pigments, creating an evolving personality unique to each watch.

This natural fade is part of what gives the 16710 its charm. It captures a time before Rolex pursued absolute permanence, when its watches were tools designed to live and age with their owners. Today, those faded bezels serve as reminders of that philosophy.

Inside the Watch: The Calibre 3185

Beneath the caseback beats the Rolex calibre 3185, a self-winding movement that epitomises the brand’s commitment to precision and reliability. It runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour, has a 48-hour power reserve, and features a free-sprung balance wheel for long-term stability.

The most notable feature is its ability to adjust the local hour hand independently. This design allowed travellers to move seamlessly between time zones without interrupting the watch’s timekeeping. It also meant the 24-hour hand, used in conjunction with the rotating bezel, could track a third time zone when needed.

The calibre 3185 would later be succeeded by the 3186, which offered minor refinements, but both movements remain highly respected. They are robust, accurate, and serviceable, qualities that define Rolex’s reputation for producing watches that last a lifetime.

Dial and Hands

The dial of the 16710 is a study in clarity. Deep black with applied white gold hour markers filled with luminous material, it offers legibility in any light. The classic Mercedes hour hand, the sword-like minute hand, and the red 24-hour hand tipped with a luminous arrow create the perfect balance of form and function.

As these watches age, their luminous material often takes on a soft cream tone, adding warmth and depth to the dial. Combined with the pastel fade of the Pink Lady bezel, the result is a harmonious, vintage look that feels both familiar and refined.

Every element of the dial has been carefully considered. The typography is crisp, the coronet at twelve perfectly aligned, and the text evenly spaced. The attention to proportion and symmetry is what gives Rolex dials their timeless appeal.

Case and Bracelet

The Oyster case of the 16710 is made from solid stainless steel, a material chosen for its resilience and understated beauty. Its dimensions strike a perfect balance, offering presence without bulk. The polished sides catch the light, while the brushed tops of the lugs maintain a utilitarian edge.

The watch is paired with the Oyster bracelet. Its three-link construction, offers a reassuring weight on the wrist without feeling heavy. The clasp, engraved with the Rolex coronet, completes the look in classic style.

On the wrist, the 16710 feels perfectly proportioned. It hugs the wrist comfortably and wears equally well with casual or formal attire. The Pink Lady bezel, with its soft tones, adds a layer of character that sets it apart from modern GMT models.

The GMT-Master II’s Place in Rolex History

The 16710 marks an important period for Rolex. It represents the brand’s move toward modern precision and finishing while still holding onto its vintage charm. The Pink Lady version, with its faded aluminium bezel, stands as a reminder of the time before Rolex embraced the permanence of ceramic and the larger Super Case proportions.

What makes the 16710 so appealing is its balance. It offers all the functionality of a modern watch while retaining the lightness and elegance of earlier models. The bezel clicks feel precise but not rigid, the bracelet flexible yet sturdy. Every detail feels purposeful, designed to last decades rather than a season.

The GMT-Master II line continues today, more technically advanced than ever, but many enthusiasts still look back to the 16710 as the last of the true classic-era GMTs. Its proportions, simplicity, and tactile quality make it a reference point for what a great travel watch should be.

The Allure of Patina

Time changes everything, and that includes watches. The Pink Lady is celebrated precisely because of how it has aged. The fading bezel, the mellow lume, and the gentle wear marks are all part of its story. They remind us that a mechanical watch is not static; it’s a living object that records the passage of time in more ways than one.

Unlike modern watches that strive for eternal newness, the Pink Lady has embraced imperfection. Each fade and tone variation is unique, the result of real-world use rather than design. That authenticity is something that cannot be replicated or faked.

For many, this is what makes vintage Rolex so compelling. It is not about pristine condition but about character, individuality, and the tangible connection to its past.

Final Thoughts

The Rolex GMT-Master II 16710 “Pink Lady” is a reflection of an era when Rolex watches were built to be worn, not just admired. Its aluminium bezel, which fades gracefully with time, captures the soul of a brand that once valued evolution through use rather than perfection through engineering.

The watch combines practicality with poetry. Its robust construction and precise movement make it a dependable companion, while its faded colours and gentle patina give it a warmth that modern pieces often lack.

Case and bracelet in great condition with light hairlines visible. Case has been lightly polished.

Dial and hands in excellent condition.