Rolex Submariner 14060: The Last of the Purist Submariners

When Rolex released the reference 14060 in 1990, it marked a quiet but pivotal moment in the evolution of the Submariner line. Gone were the tritium dials of the 5513’s early years, but still present was the simplicity that had defined the non-date Submariner for decades. For those who view the Submariner as a pure tool watch—free of magnification, clutter, or gloss—the 14060 became the last true heir to that legacy.

Our example, dating from 1995, sits right in the middle of this reference’s long production run. It retains all the charm of the early 14060s, with a two-line dial and tritium lume that is now ageing gracefully. But to appreciate what makes this watch so significant, it helps to look back at what came before—and what came after.

From 5513 to 14060: A Transitional Epoch

The Rolex Submariner 5513 had an astonishing production run from 1962 until 1989. Over those 27 years, it became the archetypal dive watch. Domed acrylic crystal, gilt and then matte dials, and the soft fade of tritium lume created an aesthetic that defined an era of professional timekeeping under the waves. It had no date complication, no chronometer certification, and no pretension. It was all business.

When the 5513 was finally discontinued in 1989, the 14060 emerged as its direct successor. It was more than just a replacement; it was a subtle modernisation. The case remained 40mm, the dial was still no-date, but the crystal was now sapphire rather than acrylic. Most notably, the calibre 3000 movement introduced a higher beat rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour compared to the 19,800 of the outgoing 1520/1530 series, improving precision and shock resistance. It was an evolution, not a reinvention.

And crucially, it maintained a key design trait: no date, no cyclops. Just clean symmetry and legibility.

The Two-Line Tritium Dials: Aesthetic Restraint

Early 14060s, including our 1995 example, feature what collectors now call the “two-liner” dial. These dials bear only two lines of text below the hands: “Submariner” and “1000ft = 300m.” Above the 6 o’clock marker, you’ll find “Swiss – T<25”, signifying tritium lume, which has now aged to soft cream or warm custard hues depending on wear and environmental exposure.

This restraint is part of the watch’s enduring appeal. Later 14060M models, particularly from 2007 onward, moved to four lines of text once COSC certification was introduced. While technically superior, many collectors prefer the balance and character of the earlier dial layout. It speaks to a different era of Rolex—before over-polished rehaut engravings and ceramics, when the Submariner was still more diver than desk.

Movement: Calibre 3000 Under the Hood

Powering the 14060 until 2000 was Rolex’s calibre 3000, an in-house automatic movement running at 4Hz with a 42-hour power reserve. While it lacked the free-sprung balance and Breguet overcoil of later calibres like the 3130, it was still robust, reliable, and serviceable. It had 27 jewels, hacking seconds, and was known for its durability in real-world use.

Calibre 3000 was not chronometer-rated, which suited the 14060’s tool-watch positioning. Rolex was still applying chronometer certification to its date-equipped sports models, but the no-date Sub remained a little more spartan—more aligned with its original military and professional roots.

This detail matters because many collectors see the lack of COSC certification not as a drawback but as a signal of purity. The 14060 wasn’t trying to be a luxury item. It was, first and foremost, a diver’s instrument.

Case, Bezel and Bracelet: Familiar Forms, Evolving Execution

The 14060 retained the classic Submariner proportions: 40mm across, 20mm lug width, with a lug-to-lug measurement of around 47mm. While it looks nearly identical to the 5513 at a glance, it wears slightly more modern due to the sapphire crystal and slightly more squared-off lugs.

The bezel was aluminium, with a unidirectional 60-minute scale and a polished coin edge that offered solid grip even with gloves. Insert fade varies with age and exposure, but the 1990s examples often exhibit a pleasing ghosting or blue-grey tone over time. Ours still retains much of its original tone with light wear—nothing over-polished or excessively replaced.

The bracelet on the 14060 was the familiar Oyster reference 93150 with solid outer links, hollow centre links, and a stamped clasp. It featured the diver’s extension and folded end links that hugged the case with that unmistakable old-school Rolex feel—slightly rattly, but utterly comfortable and highly adjustable.

Wearing Experience: Understated and Versatile

On the wrist, the 14060 is one of the easiest Submariners to wear. Without the visual weight of a date magnifier or maxi lugs, the watch wears flat and sits comfortably on a variety of wrist sizes. It’s equally at home under a cuff or strapped over a wetsuit, and its neutrality makes it a natural daily wearer.

Importantly, it doesn’t scream for attention. It doesn’t need to. Those who know, know. And for those who don’t, it simply looks like a well-proportioned, functional dive watch.

From Tritium to Luminova: Lume Transitions and Collectability

Tritium was phased out by Rolex in the late 1990s, and around 1998–1999, the brand transitioned to Luminova and then Super-Luminova. That makes our 1995 example one of the last few years of full tritium dials and hands, with matching creamy patina.

Tritium pieces are more sought-after by collectors not just because of their age, but because of how the luminous material ages. It takes on warmth and variation that the more stable Luminova lacks. Matching tritium hands and dial plots—without signs of reluming—are especially prized. Ours meets that brief.

Why the 14060 Matters Today

In today’s Rolex landscape, with ceramic bezels, chromalight lume, and thick case profiles, the 14060 represents something increasingly rare: restraint.

It’s the last Submariner reference to combine traditional elements—like tritium, aluminium bezels, hollow links, and drilled lugs—with modern functionality. It’s water-resistant to 300 metres, shock-resistant, and scratch-resistant with its sapphire crystal. It feels contemporary enough to be worn daily but still vintage enough to scratch that nostalgic itch.

Moreover, it’s not trying to be a statement piece. It’s a Submariner for someone who actually likes Submariners—not because they’re a status symbol, but because they’re a design that got it right the first time, and just needed small refinements over time.

The Shift to 14060M and Beyond

In 2000, the 14060 became the 14060M (“Modified”), fitted with calibre 3130. That movement added a larger balance wheel and a full balance bridge, and eventually brought COSC certification to the model. The two-line dial held on until 2007, before being replaced by the four-line variant.

By 2012, the 14060M was discontinued in favour of the Submariner 114060, which introduced ceramic bezels, wider lugs, and a bulkier case. Many consider that the end of the classic era.

That puts the 14060—especially the early tritium, two-liner versions—at an important inflection point. Modern enough to be wearable, vintage enough to have character, and built at a time when Rolex still approached the Submariner as a tool, not a trophy.

Final Thoughts

The Rolex Submariner 14060 isn’t rare in the strictest sense, but great examples are becoming harder to find—especially ones with untouched tritium dials, original bezel inserts, and minimal polish. Our 1995 model offers exactly that: an honest, well-kept piece of one of Rolex’s most enduring references.

It occupies that sweet spot between the vintage charm of the 5513 and the technical modernity of today’s Submariners.

• Case & Bracelet in good vintage condition.
• Bracelet in good vintage condition, some stretch visible.

• Dial & hands good condition.