Rolex Submariner 14060 (2004): A Purist’s Diver

The No-Date Submariner Legacy

Rolex introduced the first no-date Submariner—the reference 6204—in 1953. By removing the date window and Cyclops lens, Rolex maintained unbroken legibility across the dial and presented a symmetrical design that many divers and desk-bound professionals preferred. Over decades the no-date line evolved through references 6536, 5513 and 5512, each iteration refining waterproof capability, movement robustness and luminous technology. The reference 14060, released in 1990, inherited that streamlined heritage and re-centred the Submariner range around functional minimalism.

From Reference 5513 to 14060

The 5513 (1962-1989) established the long-running design code: 200 m water resistance, aluminium bezel insert and a Maxi dial with triangular, round and rectangular hour markers. It used the calibre 1520, lacked chronometer certification and accepted tritium paint that patinated over time. When the 14060 replaced it, Rolex upgraded the calibre to the 3000, improved gasket engineering for 300 m depth rating, and adopted a glossy lacquer dial with white-gold surrounds. Yet the essential “clean” aesthetic remained intact, preserving the no-date Sub’s cult following among tool-watch devotees who valued simplicity over calendar convenience.

2004 in Context: A Transitional Moment

By 2004 the reference had already morphed into the 14060M, the “Modified” version that quietly entered the catalogue around 2000-2001 with the calibre 3130. Rolex, however, continued to engrave some casebacks simply “14060”, and many owners still refer to the entire generation as 14060. Collectors later split the run into two broad periods: “two-line” dials (1990-2006) bearing only SUBMARINER and 1000ft = 300m, and “four-line” chronometer dials (2007-2012) that added SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER and OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED. A 2004 watch sits near the end of the two-line era, pairing the updated calibre 3130 with the dial text restraint of earlier models. It therefore marries technical improvement with the pared-back look that purists prize.

Rolex was also phasing out lug holes during this time. All 14060 cases retain drilled lugs, enabling straightforward strap swaps without risk of scratching the case flanks and emphasising the reference’s tool-watch roots. Luminova had replaced tritium by 1999, producing a crisper white tone in daylight and a green glow in darkness, free from the ageing that earlier tritium displays show. For many modern wearers this combination—new-generation movement, Luminova brightness and visible lug holes—represents a sweet spot between old-school charm and contemporary usability.

Case and Bezel Architecture

40 mm Oyster Case

The 14060 platform employs a 40 mm Oystersteel case measuring approximately 47.5 mm lug-to-lug and 12.5 mm in thickness. Crown guards flank a Triplock 7 mm screw-down crown, and the solid screw-down caseback locks everything tight to 300 m. The mid-2000s case geometry still uses narrower lugs than the later Super Case of the reference 114060, allowing the watch to hug wrists and tuck comfortably under shirt cuffs. The sides are polished while the lug tops receive brushed satin, creating clear visual definition without drawing attention away from the dial.

Aluminium Timing Bezel

Anodised aluminium inserts dominated Submariner production until 2010. The 2004 bezel features 60-minute markings with an inverted silver triangle at 12 and printed hash-marks to 15 minutes, then five-minute intervals thereafter. A luminous pearl sits within the triangle for quick orientation underwater or at night. The bezel rotates unidirectionally through 120 firm clicks, a safety measure that ensures elapsed-time readings cannot be accidentally lengthened. Compared with later Cerachrom inserts, aluminium offers a slightly warmer tone, can fade subtly over time and is easier—though more expensive today—to replace if damaged.

Calibre 3130 Movement

The calibre 3130 arrived in the no-date line in 2000, sharing its basic architecture with the date-equipped calibre 3135 while omitting the date wheel and associated gearing. Key technical points include a free-sprung Glucydur balance, Breguet overcoil, KIF shock absorbers and a full-balance bridge rather than the half-bridge used in calibre 3000. These details enhance long-term accuracy and stability. The movement beats at 28,800 vph, holds approximately 48 hours of power reserve and is adjusted at the factory to strict tolerances even though Rolex did not seek COSC certification for two-line 14060M watches. A solid caseback shields the mechanism from view, consistent with the model’s role as a professional instrument rather than a display piece.

Dial and Hands

Two-Line Dial Layout

A 2004 example carries a glossy black dial with applied white-gold hour markers filled with Luminova. “SUBMARINER” and “1000ft = 300m” appear in print above six o’clock, leaving ample negative space below the hands. This uncluttered lower dial area mirrors the symmetry of early Submariners and draws the eye naturally to the Mercedes hour hand and lollipop seconds. The Rolex coronet and ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL text remain at 12 o’clock, framing the central pinion.

Lume Evolution

Tritium, denoted by “SWISS-T<25” at six o’clock, disappeared in 1998. From 1999 through 2007 dials read simply “SWISS MADE”, indicating Luminova or Super-Luminova luminous compound. On a 2004 watch the lume emits a green glow when charged by light and returns to a neutral white hue in daylight. Although it will not develop the creamy patina beloved on 1960s dials, it offers predictable brightness for real diving or night-time legibility.

Bracelet and Clasp

The Oyster bracelet fitted in 2004 is reference 93150, composed of solid outer links and hollow centre links, secured by end links stamped 501B. It tapers from 20 mm at the lugs to 16 mm at the clasp, maintaining the svelte look established in the 1960s. The clasp is a stamped-steel Oysterlock with a folding diver’s extension link that unfolds to slide over a wetsuit sleeve. Though lighter than the solid-link bracelets introduced after 2010, it balances the watch head perfectly and keeps total weight manageable at roughly 125 g.

Wearing Experience

On the wrist the 14060 from 2004 delivers the classic Submariner profile without the date bubble that some find visually disruptive. The narrow-lug case and hollow-link bracelet lend a sense of agility absent from subsequent ceramic references. The bezel’s tactile aluminium click and the symmetrical dial provide immediate 20th-century nostalgia while the Luminova and calibre 3130 reassure wearers that modern performance has not been sacrificed. Whether paired with a NATO strap for weekend travels or worn under a suit sleeve, the watch feels equally at home thanks to its slender thickness and balanced mass.

Cultural Significance

Within the wider horological landscape, the two-line 14060M represents Rolex’s last serialised no-date Submariner that was not COSC-certified, closing a chapter that began with the 5513. It sits at a crossroads: classic in silhouette yet updated enough to handle contemporary daily use without compromise. The retention of lug holes and aluminium insert anchors it to a pre-ceramic era that many enthusiasts consider Rolex’s most authentic phase. Meanwhile the calibre 3130 connects it to Rolex’s modern production standards. As a result, the 2004 watch stands as a tangible link between mid-century toolwatch DNA and 21st-century precision engineering.

Final Thoughts

The 2004 Rolex Submariner 14060M delivers a distilled expression of the Submariner idea: crystal-clear legibility, rugged 300 m water resistance and a no-date dial that prizes symmetry over complication. Sitting at the end of the two-line, pre-ceramic continuum, it offers the technical advantages of the calibre 3130 and Luminova lume while preserving drilled lugs, a svelte case and a warm aluminium bezel insert. In doing so it captures a moment when Rolex balanced heritage design cues with incremental engineering progress—resulting in a diver’s watch that remains understated, robust and immediately recognisable twenty years on.

• Case in excellent condition, minimal wear visible, extremely sharp lugs.
• Bracelet in excellent condition, minimal stretch / wear visible. 
• Case unpolished.

Dial & hands flawless