Rolex Submariner 16610

The Rolex Submariner reference 16610 represents one of the most significant transitional models in the Submariner line. It embodies the final evolution of the classic aluminium-insert Submariner before Rolex introduced ceramic bezels and redesigned cases in the following generation. With its solid-end-link bracelet, no-hole case, and calibre 3135 movement, it marked the conclusion of the traditional Submariner era built to exacting modern standards.

Development of the Submariner

The Rolex Submariner was first introduced in 1953 as the world’s first commercially available dive watch capable of water resistance to 100 metres. Its defining features — a rotating bezel, highly legible dial, and robust Oyster case — established a template that would remain largely unchanged for decades. By the late 1980s, the Submariner line had been refined for both professional and civilian use, combining technical capability with consistent chronometer performance.

The 16610 replaced the reference 16800 and continued in production for approximately two decades. It was built entirely from 904L stainless steel and maintained the 40 mm case diameter that had become standard for the Submariner Date models. The case retained the proportions and shape developed through earlier generations but incorporated technical upgrades that improved durability and precision.

Case Construction

The Oyster case of the 16610 is manufactured from a solid block of 904L stainless steel. Rolex began using this alloy for its superior corrosion resistance, particularly against saltwater and humidity, making it especially suitable for professional diving environments. The case provides water resistance to 300 metres, achieved through a screw-down Triplock crown and screw-in caseback system.

Unlike earlier examples, later production models of the 16610 feature a no-hole case, meaning the lug holes used to remove spring bars are hidden within the lugs rather than drilled through. This design improves structural integrity around the lug area and gives the watch a cleaner, more sealed case flank.

The case thickness is approximately 12.5 mm, and the lug-to-lug measurement is around 47.5 mm. These dimensions remained consistent across the Submariner Date range of this era. The flanks of the case are mirror polished, while the tops of the lugs are brushed with a straight-grained finish applied along the horizontal axis.

The Triplock crown system includes three gaskets, two inside the crown tube and one beneath the crown itself. When screwed down, it ensures complete sealing against water ingress. The crown guards are compact and symmetrical, protecting the crown without increasing bulk.

Bezel and Crystal

The Submariner 16610 is fitted with a unidirectional rotating bezel designed to measure elapsed dive time. The bezel is machined from stainless steel and features a black anodised aluminium insert. The insert’s 60-minute scale is printed in silver, with hash marks for the first 15 minutes and numerals at ten-minute intervals. The zero marker contains a luminous pearl protected by a raised transparent covering.

The bezel rotates counter-clockwise with 120 clicks per full turn, using a spring-loaded ratchet mechanism for precision and security. Its edge is coin-textured to ensure grip, even when operated with gloves. The unidirectional function is a safety feature that prevents accidental clockwise rotation, ensuring that any movement of the bezel can only shorten, not lengthen, perceived dive time.

The 16610 uses a flat sapphire crystal that offers high resistance to scratches. A magnifying Cyclops lens is positioned above the date aperture at 3 o’clock, providing 2.5× magnification. The crystal is secured with a gasket and tension ring beneath the bezel, maintaining the case’s water-tight structure.

Dial and Hands

The Submariner 16610 features a gloss black dial with luminous hour markers surrounded by white-gold frames. The dial layout consists of round markers for most hours, baton markers at 6 and 9 o’clock, and a triangle marker at 12 o’clock. The use of white-gold surrounds prevents oxidation, a common issue in earlier painted-marker dials.

The dial includes five lines of text beneath the central hands, displaying the Submariner name, depth rating of 1000 ft = 300 m, and “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified.” The Rolex coronet is printed beneath the 12 o’clock triangle. The luminous material used is Super-LumiNova, which replaced tritium in Rolex dials in the late 1990s. Super-LumiNova provides long-lasting luminescence and is non-radioactive.

The hands follow the traditional Submariner configuration: a Mercedes-style hour hand, sword-shaped minute hand, and lollipop-tipped seconds hand. All three are made from 18 ct white gold and filled with luminous compound to match the hour markers.

Movement: Rolex Calibre 3135

Powering the 16610 is the Rolex Calibre 3135, an automatic mechanical movement produced entirely in-house. Introduced in 1988, the 3135 became the standard calibre for Rolex’s date models for more than thirty years. It is a self-winding movement with 31 jewels and a 48-hour power reserve.

The balance wheel is free-sprung and equipped with Microstella regulation screws, allowing precise adjustment without an external regulator. The balance operates at a frequency of 28 800 vibrations per hour, and the hairspring features a Breguet overcoil to improve concentric breathing and positional stability. The movement uses a full balance bridge rather than a single-sided cock, increasing shock resistance and rigidity.

The calibre 3135 employs Rolex’s bi-directional Perpetual rotor system, which winds the mainspring efficiently in both directions of motion. It is fitted with a quickset date function, allowing the date to be adjusted independently from the time via the second crown position.

Every calibre 3135 is certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), ensuring accuracy within the standard Rolex chronometer tolerance of –4 to +6 seconds per day. The movement is constructed with a paramagnetic escape wheel and nickel-phosphorus components designed for long-term reliability.

Bracelet and Clasp

The Submariner 16610 is fitted with the Oyster bracelet reference 93250. This version features solid end links (SEL), an update from the hollow end links used in earlier generations. The solid end links improve structural rigidity and eliminate lateral flex at the case connection.

The bracelet consists of three flat, solid steel links per row. The outer links are brushed, matching the case’s upper surfaces, while the sides are polished. The end links integrate flush with the no-hole case, giving the watch a cleaner and more contemporary appearance compared with earlier references.

The clasp is the Oysterlock safety clasp with a secondary flip-lock extension designed for divers to wear the watch over a wetsuit sleeve. It includes a stamped steel diver’s extension link that folds out when needed and locks securely when closed. The clasp is signed with the Rolex coronet and engraved with the correct internal reference.

Technical Specifications

Case: Oystersteel (904L stainless steel)

Diameter: 40 mm

Thickness: approximately 12.5 mm

Water resistance: 300 metres / 1000 feet

Bezel: Unidirectional, 120-click, stainless steel with black aluminium insert

Crystal: Sapphire with Cyclops date magnifier

Movement: Rolex Calibre 3135, automatic, chronometer-certified

Power reserve: 48 hours

Bracelet: Oyster reference 93250, solid end links, Oysterlock clasp

Submariner Design Evolution

The reference 16610 continued the lineage established by the 16800 and 168000 before it, refining the same core design with technical updates. The use of 904L steel replaced 316L alloy used previously, offering greater resistance to corrosion. The transition from tritium to Super-LumiNova lume marked a change in compliance with modern luminous standards. The later introduction of the no-hole case and solid end links represented Rolex’s push toward tighter tolerances and improved case integration.

This reference retained the aluminium bezel insert that characterised Submariners for half a century, providing a matte finish distinct from the later ceramic bezels that debuted with the 116610 generation. Likewise, the proportions of the 16610 remained faithful to the traditional Submariner aesthetic, featuring slimmer lugs and crown guards compared with the broader geometry of the later “Maxi-case” designs.

The Calibre 3135 remained in production throughout the entire run of the 16610, a testament to its robustness and precision. While later movements would adopt the Parachrom hairspring and updated escapement materials, the 3135 established the engineering foundation for those developments.

Dial Variants and Markings

Throughout its production span, the 16610 saw several dial variations reflecting changes in Rolex’s luminous materials and manufacturing standards. Early examples carried “SWISS-T < 25” markings, indicating tritium lume. This was replaced with “SWISS” for a brief transitional period and then “SWISS MADE” for models using Super-LumiNova. The text layout remained consistent across these variants, with minor typographic differences over time.

The bezel font and dial print are among the features used by specialists to identify specific production periods. Earlier inserts display slightly thinner numerals, while later examples exhibit bolder font and a shinier anodised finish. The luminous pearl also evolved, shifting from tritium to non-radioactive compounds.

Position in the Rolex Range

During its production period, the Submariner 16610 occupied the central position in Rolex’s professional dive watch range. It sat between the no-date Submariner 14060 and the higher-depth Sea-Dweller 16600. The 16610 shared the same 300-metre water resistance as its predecessor but benefited from the updated materials and manufacturing standards Rolex implemented across its sports models.

It was the last generation of Submariner to maintain the traditional appearance that linked it directly to the early references of the 1950s and 1960s. When Rolex replaced it with the 116610, featuring a Cerachrom bezel, broader lugs, and a completely re-engineered bracelet, the 16610 became viewed as the definitive end of the classic Submariner era.

Historical Context

The Submariner has long been associated with professional diving and maritime exploration. By the time the 16610 was in production, Rolex had established deep ties with diving history through collaborations with the likes of COMEX and through numerous oceanographic expeditions. The 16610 inherited the technical lineage proven in these environments but was also widely adopted outside professional diving for its accuracy and resilience.

Its use of 904L steel, precise bezel assembly, and consistent chronometer performance reflected Rolex’s continuous evolution in materials science and manufacturing precision during the early 2000s. The 16610 stood as both a professional instrument and an industrial benchmark, combining reliability with serial production tolerances unmatched in its category.

Legacy

The Rolex Submariner 16610 remains a cornerstone of the Submariner line. It consolidates five decades of gradual development into one reference that balanced traditional design with modern specification. Its no-hole case, solid end links, and 3135 movement marked the final stage before Rolex’s transition into a new era of in-house materials and re-engineered cases.

As a technical object, the 16610 demonstrates the cumulative refinement of Rolex engineering: corrosion-resistant 904L steel, sapphire crystal protection, precise bezel mechanism, and one of the most durable automatic movements ever produced. These qualities ensured that the model met both professional standards and long-term dependability.

Final Thoughts

The Rolex Submariner 16610 represents the culmination of the classic Submariner design before the introduction of ceramic components and heavier case proportions. It retains the mechanical and material innovations that define the modern Submariner while preserving the construction principles of its predecessors.

• Case in very good condition, strong chamfered lugs with factory brushing still visible. 
• Bracelet in very good condition, little to no stretch.

Dial and hands are flawless.