Rolex Submariner 16610 with Ghost Blue Bezel

Introduction

The Rolex Submariner reference 16610 occupies a central place in the modern history of the brand. Produced from 1989 until 2010, it bridged two eras: the tritium and aluminium era of the late 20th century, and the glossy-lume, Super-Luminova, solid-bracelet era that defines the 21st century Submariner. It represents Rolex at a point when its watches were still rugged tools yet had fully entered the realm of luxury icons.

A particularly captivating example from the early years of production is one with a bezel insert that has aged to a “ghost blue” hue. This transformation, caused by natural fading of the aluminium under years of light, water, and environmental exposure, gives the watch a unique and ethereal character. Ghost inserts are not a separate reference or production type; they are the result of decades of real-world use, each one ageing differently. In this way, a 16610 with a ghost blue bezel is not only historically significant but visually distinctive.

The Introduction of the 16610

The 16610 was introduced in 1989 as the successor to the reference 168000. It carried the baton from earlier Submariners like the 1680 and 16800, but with improvements that would define the modern Submariner Date. It was powered by the calibre 3135, Rolex’s new-generation movement with improved accuracy and durability, and featured a sapphire crystal — a change that began with the 16800 but was fully entrenched by the time of the 16610.

The model was water-resistant to 300 metres, an upgrade from the 200-metre depth rating of the earlier 1680. This increase was facilitated by the improved case construction, Triplock crown system, and tougher sapphire crystal. For divers and everyday wearers alike, the 16610 was a leap forward in both toughness and refinement.

Case and Bezel

The stainless steel Oyster case of the 16610 measured 40mm in diameter and was crafted from 904L steel, a highly corrosion-resistant alloy that Rolex adopted for its superior resistance to seawater. The watch featured brushed lugs on top with polished case flanks, creating a mix of utilitarian and refined surfaces.

The bezel was unidirectional, a feature introduced in the 1980s as a safety improvement for diving. Its insert was aluminium, anodised in black, with silvered numerals marking the 60-minute graduation. The aluminium material, while functional and lightweight, was susceptible to fading over time. Decades of exposure to sunlight and saltwater often transformed these black inserts into shades of grey, blue, or slate.

A ghost blue bezel is a particularly striking form of this natural fading. Under certain light, the bezel may appear pale grey, but with a subtle blue tint that recalls the tones of the sea. This fading effect is entirely unique to each watch, and no two ghost inserts look alike. It is a testament to both the material qualities of vintage Rolex and the stories embedded in a well-worn Submariner.

Dial and Hands

In the early 1990s, the 16610 featured a gloss black dial with white text and applied indices surrounded by white gold. The luminous material was tritium, denoted by “SWISS-T<25” at the bottom of the dial. Over time, tritium naturally loses its luminescence and often ages to warm creamy or yellow tones, lending the dial a soft vintage character.

The hands were also filled with tritium, and like the hour plots, they have often aged at a slightly different rate. The glossy dial combined with white gold surrounds gave the 16610 a more modern look compared to the matte dials of the 5513 or 1680. Yet, with its tritium lume, acrylic-era warmth remained in its design.

Later versions of the 16610 would adopt Luminova and then Super-Luminova lume, but the early tritium examples retain a charm that connects them to earlier Submariner traditions.

Bracelet and Clasp

The 16610 was delivered with the Oyster bracelet reference 93150, featuring hollow centre links and 501B end links. The clasp was stamped steel with Rolex’s diver’s extension link, allowing the watch to be worn over a wetsuit.

This construction gave the bracelet a lighter, more flexible feel than the solid-link bracelets that would follow in later decades. While modern bracelets are more robust, many appreciate the vintage charm and comfort of the hollow-link construction.

The bracelet is a reminder of the Submariner’s tool-watch heritage. It was built for function first, yet Rolex’s finishing ensured that it looked refined enough to be worn in any setting.

The Calibre 3135

At the heart of the 16610 was the calibre 3135, introduced in 1988. This movement became the backbone of Rolex’s date-equipped models for decades, powering not only Submariners but also Datejusts and Sea-Dwellers.

The calibre 3135 featured a free-sprung balance with a Breguet overcoil and a full balance bridge, improving stability and shock resistance. It beat at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offered a 48-hour power reserve. Its quickset date function allowed the wearer to adjust the date independently of the time, a convenience that earlier movements lacked.

Known for its robustness and ease of service, the 3135 remains one of Rolex’s most highly regarded movements. It solidified Rolex’s reputation for building calibres that were both precise and enduring.

The Submariner in the 1990s

By the early 1990s, the Submariner had transcended its origins as a professional diver’s watch. It had become a symbol of achievement, worn as much in boardrooms and cities as it was on dive boats. The 16610 captured this duality perfectly.

Its sapphire crystal, glossy dial, and white gold surrounds reflected Rolex’s move toward luxury, while its Oyster case, Triplock crown, and unidirectional bezel ensured that it remained a serious tool. This combination made the 16610 one of the most versatile watches of its era.

At the same time, the 16610’s tritium lume and aluminium bezel tied it to the vintage era that had come before. It was a watch straddling two worlds — vintage warmth and modern robustness — and this is one reason why early examples are so appreciated today.

The Ghost Blue Bezel Effect

The ghost blue bezel is a phenomenon that has become increasingly celebrated in vintage Rolex. While Rolex designed its aluminium inserts to be black, time and exposure transformed many of them into shades of grey or blue.

The ghost blue hue is particularly captivating because it suggests the colours of the ocean itself. It gives the watch a softer, almost ethereal presence compared to the stark black of a factory insert. Under different light conditions, the bezel can shift between pale slate, silvery grey, and hints of blue, creating a dynamic appearance that modern ceramic bezels cannot replicate.

This fading is not a flaw but a sign of life. Each ghost bezel tells a story — perhaps years of sunlit holidays, countless dives, or simply decades of wear. In this way, a 16610 with a ghost blue insert carries both historical importance and unique individuality.

Wearing the 16610 Today

On the wrist, an early 16610 feels timeless. Its 40mm case size is still the standard for Rolex professional models, and its proportions are comfortable on a wide range of wrists. The hollow-link bracelet is lightweight, adding to the watch’s wearability.

The acrylic-era warmth of the tritium lume and the faded bezel combine with the robustness of a sapphire crystal and the calibre 3135 movement. The result is a watch that wears vintage but performs modern.

A ghost blue bezel transforms the watch further. It softens the Submariner’s look, making it more understated yet more characterful. It becomes a watch that stands out not through shine or polish, but through quiet individuality.

Historical Importance of the 16610

The 16610 is historically significant as the longest-running Submariner Date reference. It marked the final era of aluminium bezels and tritium lume, while introducing the calibre 3135 that would power Rolex watches for decades.

The reference witnessed Rolex’s transition from tool to luxury brand in full. It is the Submariner that carried Rolex into the 21st century, and its long production span means it remains one of the most recognisable Rolex models ever made.

For the Submariner line, the 16610 sits as the definitive late-20th century model — modern enough to be worn daily without compromise, but vintage enough to retain the warmth and character of earlier eras.

Final Thoughts

The Rolex Submariner 16610 from the early 1990s, especially with a bezel insert that has faded to ghost blue, is a watch that captures the essence of vintage-modern Rolex. Its 40mm Oystersteel case, sapphire crystal, tritium dial, and calibre 3135 movement make it robust and reliable, while its faded bezel and patinated lume give it individuality and charm.

The ghost blue insert in particular makes this example stand out. It is the result of decades of natural wear, a transformation that gives the watch unique character while underscoring its history as a tool built for use.

As one of the most important Submariner references in Rolex’s long history, the 16610 embodies the brand’s balance of tradition and innovation. And with its ghost bezel, it shows how time itself can turn a functional object into something truly unique

• Case and bracelet in great vintage condition with hairlines visible. Some stretch on bracelet. Bezel has turned a blue ghost colour.
• Case unpolished.

•   Dial and hands in excellent condition.