Rolex Submariner 16618LB 40mm Circa 2000

The Rolex Submariner 16618LB: A Timeless Gold Diver

Introduction to the Rolex Submariner 16618LB

The Rolex Submariner 16618LB, released in the late 1980s and produced until the late 2000s, is a watch that perfectly blends luxury and functionality. This model is part of the iconic Submariner lineage, a collection that has long been regarded as the gold standard for dive watches.

What sets the 16618LB apart from its stainless steel siblings is its construction from solid 18k yellow gold and its striking blue sunburst dial and bezel. These elements transform the typically rugged Submariner into a statement piece, exuding both elegance and capability. The LB in its reference number stands for Lunette Bleue, meaning blue bezel in French, further emphasising its distinctive and eye-catching design.

The year 2000 version of the 16618LB holds a special place in this model’s history, as it represents a turning point in Rolex’s technological advancements, particularly in the refinement of its movement and overall build quality. For collectors and enthusiasts alike, this solid gold Submariner is a highly desirable timepiece, combining classic Rolex engineering with a bold and luxurious aesthetic.

The Rolex Submariner: A Legacy of Excellence

The Origins of the Submariner

The Rolex Submariner was first introduced in 1953, and it quickly became the benchmark for dive watches. Designed as a professional tool for divers, the Submariner was one of the first watches to achieve 100 metres of water resistance, a remarkable feat for its time. Over the decades, Rolex continued to refine and enhance the Submariner, improving its depth rating, materials, and movement technology.

The Submariner’s popularity skyrocketed in the 1960s and 1970s, thanks in part to its association with James Bond, who famously wore a Submariner in early films. As Rolex’s most recognised sports watch, it gained a reputation not only as a tool for divers but also as a symbol of status and refinement.

The Introduction of the Gold Submariner

While the original Submariners were strictly stainless steel tool watches, Rolex saw an opportunity to appeal to a luxury audience by introducing precious metal versions. In 1969, Rolex released the first 18k yellow gold Submariner, the Ref. 1680/8, which featured a blue bezel and dial, setting the stage for future gold Submariners.

The concept of a gold dive watch may seem contradictory—after all, divers typically require a durable and practical timepiece—but Rolex successfully redefined the Submariner as both a tool watch and a luxury item. The 16618LB, introduced in the late 1980s, continued this tradition, becoming one of the most sought-after gold Submariners ever produced.

The Rolex Submariner 16618LB: A Closer Look

Case and Bracelet

The Rolex Submariner 16618LB features a 40mm case, crafted entirely from solid 18k yellow gold. Unlike modern gold Rolex watches, which use the brand’s proprietary Rolex Everose or improved 18k alloys, this model features a classic yellow gold finish that radiates warmth and luxury.

The case is polished and brushed to perfection, offering a balance between sportiness and elegance. The unidirectional rotating bezel is fitted with a blue aluminium insert, which contrasts beautifully against the gold case. Unlike the ceramic bezels found in later Submariners, the aluminium insert develops a unique patina over time, adding character to each watch.

The bracelet is the iconic Rolex Oyster bracelet, also in solid 18k yellow gold, with a mix of brushed outer links and polished centre links. It features the Fliplock clasp, ensuring security and adjustability for wearers.

Dial and Hands

One of the most striking elements of the 16618LB is its blue sunburst dial, which has a deep, vibrant hue that shifts in different lighting conditions. This dial features 18k yellow gold applied hour markers, filled with luminous material for maximum legibility underwater if you dare to wear it underwater.

The Mercedes hands, a signature feature of Rolex sports watches, are also crafted in yellow gold, ensuring a consistent and refined look. The date window at 3 o’clock is magnified by the Cyclops lens, a Rolex trademark that enhances readability.

Movement: The Calibre 3135

Inside the 16618LB is Rolex’s Calibre 3135, a movement that has been the workhorse of Rolex dive watches for decades. This self-winding mechanical movement features:

• Quickset date function, allowing easy adjustment of the date.

• Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring, improving resistance to shocks and temperature variations.

• COSC-certified chronometer precision, ensuring excellent timekeeping accuracy.

The 3135 movement is known for its robustness and reliability, making it a favourite among collectors and watchmakers alike. Even today, the 3135 remains a benchmark for automatic movements, reinforcing the 16618LB’s reputation for durability and performance.

Wearing the Rolex Submariner 16618LB

The Rolex Submariner 16618LB is a watch that commands attention. The combination of solid gold and the rich blue dial makes it instantly recognisable and undeniably luxurious. Despite its opulent appearance, it remains a highly capable dive watch, with 300 metres of water resistance, a screw-down crown, and a unidirectional bezel for timing dives.

However, let’s be honest—most 16618LB owners are not taking this watch on deep-sea dives. Instead, it is often worn as a statement piece, whether at a formal event, a yacht gathering, or a casual weekend outing. The weight of the solid gold case and bracelet gives it a substantial presence on the wrist, making it feel as luxurious as it looks.

Unlike modern Rolex sports watches, which have moved towards a broader and more industrial aesthetic, the 16618LB retains the classic 40mm proportions, making it a comfortable and versatile wear for most wrist sizes.

The Collectability and Market Value of the Rolex Submariner 16618LB

The Rolex Submariner 16618LB has become increasingly sought-after in recent years. As Rolex has transitioned to ceramic bezels and updated case designs, collectors have developed a greater appreciation for the aluminium-bezel eraof Rolex sports watches.

Market prices for the 16618LB from 2000 can range between $35,000 to $50,000 AUD, depending on condition, box and papers, and service history. Examples with a strong sunburst dial, unpolished case, and original bracelet tend to fetch the highest premiums.

Conclusion: A Gold Submariner with Timeless Appeal

The Rolex Submariner 16618LB is a watch that masterfully bridges the gap between luxury and sportiness. With its solid 18k yellow gold construction, sunburst blue dial, and reliable Calibre 3135 movement, it remains one of the most desirable gold dive watches ever produced.

For those who appreciate classic Rolex design, luxurious materials, and historical significance, the 16618LB from 2000 represents a golden era in Rolex’s dive watch history. Whether as an investment, a collector’s piece, or an everyday luxury watch, the Rolex Submariner 16618LB continues to shine as a true icon of horology.

Very good condition with a very sharp case. The watch remains unpolished and there is no bracelet stretch.

Dial and hands are flawless.