Rolex Submariner 1680

Introduction

The 1680 was the first Submariner to feature a date window, an innovation that fundamentally reshaped the Submariner family and created a parallel lineage that continues to this day. The no-date references, like the 5513, carried forward the original purity of the design, while the 1680 and its descendants introduced new functionality that appealed to a broader audience.

An example from the early 1970s sits in a fascinating position within this story. The 1680 had been on the market for only a few years, and Rolex was refining details of its design. At this time the reference was available with the famed “Red Submariner” text on the dial, soon to be replaced by the later all-white printing. These transitional details, paired with the period’s matte dial, tritium lume, acrylic crystal, and aluminium bezel, give the watch a distinctly vintage identity.

The Significance of the 1680

Until the introduction of the 1680, every Submariner since 1953 had been a time-only watch. Adding a date display at three o’clock represented a major shift in philosophy. It was a move that made the Submariner more practical for everyday wear, not just professional diving. The addition of the Cyclops magnifier above the date gave the watch a new visual signature, setting it apart from its no-date siblings.

The 1680 also broadened the Submariner’s appeal. No longer was it only a piece of specialist equipment; it was now positioned as a versatile companion suited to work, travel, and leisure. This dual character — tool and luxury sports watch — is one of the reasons why the Submariner has become the most recognisable watch in the world.

Case and Bezel

The 1680 retained the robust 40mm stainless steel Oyster case that had become standard for the Submariner by the late 1960s. The case was rated to 200 metres water resistance, with a screw-down crown and protective crown guards. Its finishing combined brushed surfaces on the lugs with polished flanks, a mix that underscored Rolex’s attention to detail even on professional references.

The bezel was bidirectional with an aluminium insert calibrated to 60 minutes. The aluminium construction gave the insert the potential to fade over decades of use, producing a range of tones from deep charcoal to pale grey or even blue. The zero marker was filled with tritium, designed to glow underwater when new.

The case’s proportions were substantial yet wearable, a template that Rolex has continued to refine in later Submariners. For many, the sharp chamfers and elegant profile of the 1680 represent the vintage Submariner at its best.

The Dial: Red and White

Perhaps the most defining feature of the 1680 is its dial. Early examples carried the word “Submariner” printed in red, creating the now-famous “Red Sub.” These dials came in several small typographic variations, often referred to by specialists as Mark I through Mark VI. By the early 1970s, Rolex transitioned to dials with all-white printing, phasing out the red text.

A 1680 from this period may still be found with a Red Sub dial, or with one of the first all-white matte dials. Both share the key traits of the time: matte black finish, painted white text, large tritium plots, and the “SWISS – T<25” marking at six o’clock. The tritium lume has usually aged into creamy or golden hues, contrasting beautifully against the black dial.

The date window at three o’clock, combined with the Cyclops lens on the acrylic crystal, gave the 1680 a unique face compared to earlier Submariners. This feature, controversial at the time, has since become integral to the Submariner Date identity.

Bracelet Options

The 1680 was fitted with the Oyster bracelet, most commonly the folded-link 9315 with 280 end links during the early 1970s. This bracelet was lightweight and flexible, offering comfort while maintaining robustness. It was secured with the Oyster flip-lock clasp and diver’s extension, allowing it to be worn over a wetsuit.

Later in the decade, Rolex introduced the 93150 with solid links and 580 end links, a heavier and more durable bracelet that would remain the standard on Submariners for decades. For an example from the early 1970s, the 9315 is the bracelet most closely associated with the watch as originally delivered.

Movement: Calibre 1575

Inside the 1680 beat the Rolex calibre 1575, part of the brand’s long-running 1500 series of automatic movements. The calibre 1575 was essentially a 1570 modified to include a date complication.

It featured automatic winding, hacking seconds, and a beat rate of 19,800 vibrations per hour. With a power reserve of around 48 hours, it provided reliable performance in line with Rolex’s reputation for robustness. While the quickset date function had not yet been introduced, the calibre 1575 was a strong, dependable engine that cemented the Submariner’s reputation as a watch that could withstand the rigours of professional use.

The Submariner in the Early 1970s

The Submariner had, by the early 1970s, moved beyond its origins as a diver’s tool. It had become part of popular culture, worn by actors and public figures as much as by divers. The 1680 accelerated this shift. The addition of the date made the Submariner more versatile, aligning it with Rolex’s broader strategy of creating watches that could serve both professional and luxury markets.

Despite this, the 1680 remained every inch a professional dive watch. Its 200-metre rating, luminous dial, and rotating bezel ensured that it was still fit for purpose in underwater environments. This balance of credibility and refinement made it the archetype of the modern luxury sports watch.

Historical Importance of the 1680

The 1680 is historically significant as the first Submariner with a date. This innovation divided the Submariner family into two branches — the no-date models and the Submariner Date — a division that persists to this day.

The Red Submariners from the earliest years of production are celebrated for their rarity and character, but the white-text 1680s that followed are equally important. They represent the consolidation of the Submariner Date as a core Rolex model, and their design set the stage for every Submariner Date that has followed.

For Rolex, the 1680 was a defining moment. It demonstrated how the company could evolve its designs to meet new demands without abandoning the essence of its most important watches.

Wearing the 1680 Today

On the wrist, the 1680 offers an unmistakably vintage experience. Its 40mm case size remains contemporary, but the details — acrylic crystal, matte dial, tritium lume, and folded-link bracelet — mark it as a product of its time. The acrylic crystal in particular gives the watch a warmth and charm that sapphire cannot replicate, while the domed profile adds visual depth.

The aged tritium plots and hands often display rich patina, ranging from cream to amber, giving each example unique character. The aluminium bezel insert, faded in many cases, further personalises the watch. No two vintage 1680s age in exactly the same way.

Despite its vintage traits, the 1680 remains entirely wearable today. Its proportions are balanced, its construction robust, and its functionality still relevant. It is a watch that bridges eras — vintage in feel, yet modern in size and practicality.

The 1680’s Role in the Submariner Family

The Submariner 1680 established a new template for the line. Its combination of professional diving capability and everyday practicality redefined what the Submariner could be. Later references such as the 16800 and 16610 built upon this foundation, incorporating new materials and movements, but the essential design was set by the 1680.

The 1680 also underscores Rolex’s philosophy of gradual evolution. The addition of a date was a major step, yet it was introduced without compromising the Submariner’s identity. This careful balance of innovation and continuity has been key to Rolex’s enduring success.

Final Thoughts

The Rolex Submariner 1680 from the early 1970s is one of the most important watches in the brand’s history. It introduced the date to the Submariner line, creating a new branch of the family that remains central to Rolex’s catalogue. Its matte dial, tritium lume, acrylic crystal, and aluminium bezel insert give it a vintage character that stands apart from modern Submariners.

Whether in Red Sub or white-text form, the 1680 captures a pivotal moment when Rolex expanded the Submariner’s role beyond the dive community and into everyday life. It remains a watch of lasting significance — both a tool watch and a symbol of the shift that made the Submariner a global icon.

• Case is in very good vintage condition. Little to no wear visible.
• Bracelet 9315 folded oyster is in very good condition.
• Serviced by Rolex in 2025 with service papers.
• Case unpolished

• Dial and hands are in very good condition.
• Original MK4 tritium dial