Rolex Submariner Date Two-Tone 16613LB 40MM 1997 Box & Paper

The Rolex Submariner Ref. 16613LB: A Detailed Look at the Iconic “Bluesy”

Rolex has long been synonymous with craftsmanship, innovation, and timeless design. Few models encapsulate these qualities more than the Submariner—an archetypal dive watch that has become one of the most recognisable timepieces in the world. Within this illustrious lineage, the Rolex Submariner Ref. 16613LB, often dubbed the “Bluesy,” occupies a special place. Combining a radiant blue dial with Rolex’s signature two-tone (“Rolesor”) construction, the 16613LB adds an extra layer of prestige and panache to the brand’s quintessential tool watch. Discontinued in 2010 but still highly sought-after by enthusiasts, the “Bluesy” offers both robust dive-watch functionality and a luxurious aesthetic, making it a piece that stands out in any collection. 

1. A Brief History of the Rolex Submariner

First introduced in 1953, the Rolex Submariner was pioneering in its day, offering an Oyster case with a water resistance of 100 metres—substantial for the mid-20th century. Over time, Rolex refined the Submariner’s design and engineering, eventually increasing water resistance to 200 metres and later to 300 metres. While initially targeted towards professional divers, the Submariner’s classic style and rugged capabilities soon won over a broader audience. It became a go-to luxury sports watch, seen on the wrists of explorers, military personnel, and enthusiasts of mechanical precision.

As the Submariner collection grew, so did its variations. Models like the all-steel references (e.g., 5513, 1680, 16610) were admired for their no-nonsense tool-watch appeal, while precious-metal references (e.g., 16808 in gold) gave the watch a decidedly more upscale feel. The two-tone concept emerged as a middle ground—combining the everyday practicality of stainless steel with the refined touches of gold. Eventually, the 16613 reference arrived, offering collectors a distinctive choice within the Submariner lineup.

2. Introduction to the 16613 Series

Released in the late 1980s, the 16613 series brought two-tone to the Submariner’s mainstream. Rolex’s proprietary Oystersteel (made from 904L stainless steel) and 18k yellow gold combined to create a watch that was both sporty and dressy. This “Rolesor” architecture allowed the Submariner to transition effortlessly from casual settings to more formal events, earning it a wide fan base.

During its 21-year production run, the 16613 underwent subtle updates. Lug holes (facilitating strap changes) were eventually phased out, rehaut engravings appeared in the mid-2000s for anti-counterfeiting, and luminous materials on the dial evolved from tritium to LumiNova and then Super-LumiNova. Yet throughout these tweaks, the watch retained its original core traits: a unidirectional rotating bezel, a 40 mm slim case profile, and the reliable Caliber 3135 movement. When paired with a vibrant blue dial and matching aluminium bezel insert, the 16613 took on the nickname “Bluesy,” a moniker that has since become part of the Rolex enthusiast lexicon.

3. Defining Traits of the 16613LB

3.1 Rolesor Construction

As mentioned, “Rolesor” has been a proprietary term since 1933, derived from “Rolex” and the French word or (gold). On the 16613LB, Rolex uses 18k yellow gold for the crown, bezel ring, and the centre links of the Oyster bracelet, while the outer links and case are in Oystersteel. This composition yields a watch that is more understated than solid gold but visibly more luxurious than an all-steel Submariner.

3.2 Aluminium Bezel

While modern Submariners now feature Cerachrom (ceramic) bezels, the 16613LB proudly sports an aluminium bezel insert. In addition to being lighter, aluminium offers a more “vintage” look, in line with older Submariners. Over time, aluminium inserts can develop a slight fade or “ghosting,” which many collectors find appealing. Coupled with the sunburst dial, the aluminium bezel helps cement the 16613LB’s classic status.

3.3 Caliber 3135 Movement

At the heart of the 16613LB beats the Rolex Caliber 3135, a workhorse movement introduced in 1988. Known for its robust architecture and reliability, this self-winding calibre includes a date function (with the Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock), a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring (in later iterations), and a power reserve of roughly 48 hours. The Caliber 3135 has been a mainstay in Rolex’s stable, powering various Submariners, Datejusts, and Sea-Dwellers until relatively recently.

3.4 Evolving Lume

Initially, the 16613LB used tritium for its luminous markings. Over time, Rolex adopted LumiNova and subsequently Super-LumiNova to provide improved luminosity and health safety, as tritium is a mild radioactive substance with a finite glow life. Dial markings often reflect this change: older 16613s feature “Swiss–T<25,” while LumiNova variants may say “Swiss,” and Super-LumiNova examples can read “Swiss Made.” These subtle dial differences help collectors pinpoint approximate production years.

3.5 Subtle Case Updates

Produced from 1989 to 2010, the 16613LB saw changes that signaled Rolex’s gradual move toward a more modern aesthetic. Early versions were drilled for lug holes, while post-2003–2004 references typically removed these holes for a cleaner case profile. Around the mid-2000s, Rolex introduced an engraved rehaut (the inner ring beneath the crystal), primarily as an anti-counterfeiting measure. Depending on which combination of these updates a given piece has, collectors can identify if it’s from the reference’s earlier or later production period.

4. Wearing the 16613LB: Style and Versatility

One remarkable attribute of the 16613LB is its ability to bridge the gap between sporty and dressy. Many consider the Submariner the definitive tool watch: a robust diver’s instrument with 300 metres of water resistance, a unidirectional bezel for timing underwater (or everyday tasks), and a lock-tight Oyster case. However, the addition of gold elements and that striking blue dial elevates the watch’s aesthetic appeal, positioning it as an elegant choice for formal functions, gala events, or even a business setting.

Despite its luxurious flourishes, the 16613LB remains an authentic diver’s watch, featuring a Triplock screw-down crown, a solid Oyster bracelet with a folding clasp, and a fluid unidirectional bezel action. This dual identity grants owners a sense of adaptability—whether it’s sailing along a coastline, scuba diving in the tropics, or attending a black-tie affair, the “Bluesy” can handle it all.

5. Conclusion

The Rolex Submariner Ref. 16613LB stands out as an elegant milestone in Rolex’s acclaimed dive watch lineage. Nicknamed the “Bluesy” for its captivating blue dial and matching bezel, it merges the ruggedness of the Submariner platform with a head-turning two-tone “Rolesor” architecture. Over 21 years of production, the watch evolved modestly but retained the soul of a genuine tool watch, complete with the Caliber 3135 heart, 300 metres of water resistance, and functional design elements coveted by divers and collectors alike.

When discussing the 16613LB, it’s impossible to separate its aesthetic brilliance from its undeniable practicality. Whether worn by a collector chasing rare Submariner references or a newcomer seeking a luxurious yet robust dive watch, the “Bluesy” holds up as a timeless option. Its continuing relevance in the second-hand market, combined with its steady appreciation, underscores its position not just as a beautiful timepiece but also a sound investment within the vintage Rolex community.

With its sunburst blue dial, gleaming gold highlights, and storied Submariner heritage, the 16613LB perfectly captures the ethos behind Rolex’s approach to watchmaking—striking that fine balance between refined design and unwavering performance. For many, it’s more than just a watch; it’s a reminder that mechanical craftsmanship, history, and style can coexist in a single enduring icon that remains as captivating today as when it first graced the market decades ago.

• Case & bracelet in great condition, minimal wear visible on either sides of the case. 
• Bracelet in good condition w/ no stretch. 

Dial and hands are flawless.