Tudor Black Bay 58 79030N 39MM 2019

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 79030N

Introduction

The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight reference 79030N, launched in 2018, is the first and most recognised model in the Fifty-Eight series. It represents Tudor’s effort to return to the proportions and aesthetic language of its early dive watches while incorporating modern engineering and manufacturing standards. Named after 1958, the year Tudor released the reference 7924 “Big Crown” Submariner with 200-metre water resistance, the Fifty-Eight 79030N draws directly from Tudor’s heritage and has become central to the brand’s modern identity.

Tudor’s Historical Context

Tudor was established in 1926, registered by Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, to offer robust watches at a lower price point than Rolex, using the same waterproof Oyster cases and other proven innovations but fitted with third-party movements. This positioning allowed Tudor to benefit from Rolex’s technical advancements while serving a wider customer base. In 1954, the first Tudor Submariner, reference 7922, was introduced. It had 100-metre water resistance and quickly set the tone for Tudor’s role in the tool-watch category. Four years later, the 7924 “Big Crown” arrived, rated to 200 metres and fitted with a large 8 mm crown for improved usability. The 7924 remains a cornerstone in Tudor’s history and directly informs the Fifty-Eight 79030N’s design. Tudor Submariners would go on to serve not only recreational divers but also military forces. The French Marine Nationale used Tudor Submariners extensively, as did the US Navy, recognising the watches for their reliability and legibility. In the 1960s and 1970s, Tudor diver’s watches introduced design elements such as the square-ended “snowflake” hands, a feature supplied specifically at the request of the Marine Nationale for improved underwater visibility. These elements became integral to Tudor’s design language.

The Transition from Tudor Submariners to Black Bay

Tudor produced Submariners from 1954 until 1999, when the reference 79190 was discontinued. During this period, the watches evolved in line with Rolex Submariners, sharing cases and components but distinguished by dials, hands, and movements. After the discontinuation of the Submariner line, Tudor shifted focus and, for several years, produced more fashion-oriented models that failed to gain the same traction. It was not until 2012 that Tudor re-established itself in the tool-watch category with the launch of the Black Bay. The Black Bay was conceived as a retrospective collection, merging elements from Tudor’s dive-watch past: the snowflake hands of the 1970s, the gilt accents of the 1950s, the large crown of the 7924, and the domed crystals of early models. Early Black Bays, however, came in 41 mm cases and were considered too large and thick by many collectors seeking vintage proportions. The Fifty-Eight series was created to address that demand, with the 79030N offering a 39 mm case, slimmer profile, and gilt-accented design that more faithfully reflected Tudor’s mid-century divers.

Case and Dimensions

The case of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 79030N is stainless steel, measuring 39 mm in diameter with a thickness of 11.9 mm and a lug-to-lug span of 47 mm. These dimensions closely approximate vintage Tudor and Rolex divers, making the watch comfortable and balanced on a wide range of wrists. The case is finished with brushed surfaces on the tops of the lugs, polished flanks, and chamfered bevels. Water resistance is 200 metres, in line with Tudor’s professional diving heritage. The oversized screw-down crown features the Tudor rose in relief, an emblematic reference to the brand’s earlier watches. The solid caseback follows Tudor tradition, maintaining the tool-like character of the watch.

Bezel

The bezel is unidirectional with 60 clicks, fitted with a black aluminium insert featuring gilt numerals and a red triangle at twelve o’clock with a luminous pearl. The aluminium material is deliberately chosen for its historical association and its tendency to develop character with age, in contrast to modern ceramic bezels. The grip is coin-edged for secure handling, and the action is precise, reflecting modern standards of manufacture while preserving vintage aesthetic values.

Dial and Hands

The dial is matte black with gilt-gold printing for the minute track, text, and chapter ring, echoing Tudor sports watches of the 1950s and 1960s. Applied markers are framed in gold and filled with luminous material, providing strong visibility in low light. The handset is the square-tipped snowflake design, a hallmark of Tudor since the Marine Nationale commissions of the late 1960s. The seconds hand features a diamond-shaped luminous plot, and all luminous material is bright and functional without attempting to artificially mimic patina.

Crystal

The crystal is domed sapphire, shaped to recall the acrylic domes of mid-century Tudor and Rolex divers. The dome introduces subtle distortions at certain angles, adding visual depth, while sapphire ensures scratch resistance for modern use.

Bracelet and Strap Options

The Fifty-Eight 79030N is available on several configurations. The rivet-style steel bracelet is the most popular, with faux rivet heads on the side links referencing the riveted bracelets of the 1950s and 1960s. Though cosmetic, they contribute to the vintage-inspired aesthetic. The bracelet tapers to a folding clasp with the Tudor shield logo. The construction is modern, with solid end links and screws securing the links. Other options include a distressed leather strap with folding clasp and a woven fabric strap produced by a traditional French mill. The 20 mm lug width ensures versatility, and the watch pairs equally well with aftermarket NATO or rubber straps.

Movement: MT5402

Powering the Fifty-Eight 79030N is the in-house calibre MT5402, designed specifically for smaller cases. It is COSC-certified and runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour with a 70-hour power reserve. The movement features a free-sprung balance, a full balance bridge, and a silicon hairspring, enhancing durability and resistance to magnetism. The bidirectional rotor ensures efficient winding, and the overall architecture is designed for reliability and serviceability. By creating a movement scaled to fit the Fifty-Eight, Tudor avoided the awkward thickness that would have resulted from shoehorning in a larger calibre. The MT5402 marked Tudor’s technical maturity, moving decisively away from ETA movements and reinforcing the independence of the brand’s mechanical identity.

Wearing Experience

The Fifty-Eight is defined by its proportions. At 39 mm and under 12 mm thick, it fits comfortably on a wide variety of wrists and recalls the feel of vintage Tudor Submariners more closely than almost any modern alternative. On the bracelet it carries a solid yet balanced weight, while on leather or fabric straps it takes on a lighter, more casual profile. The legibility of the dial, the tactile bezel, and the secure screw-down crown make it fully functional as a modern dive watch, but its restrained size and gilt detailing allow it to blend into both casual and formal settings.

Design Lineage

The Fifty-Eight 79030N incorporates several distinct historical elements. The oversized crown is drawn directly from the 7924 “Big Crown.” The gilt printing recalls the 1950s. The snowflake hands reference the 1970s Marine Nationale. The domed crystal reflects acrylic predecessors. The aluminium bezel insert follows the tradition of mid-century Tudor and Rolex divers. Collectively, these details show Tudor’s commitment to continuity, drawing on elements across decades of Submariner production and combining them into a coherent modern design.

Market Position

Since its release, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 79030N has been one of Tudor’s most sought-after models. It addressed long-standing calls from enthusiasts for a more proportionally accurate dive watch and brought Tudor’s vintage heritage into a contemporary package. Compared with Rolex’s Submariner, it offers heritage styling and accessible pricing while standing as a watch with its own identity. Within Tudor’s catalogue, it established a template that has since expanded into other colourways and metals.

Conclusion

The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 79030N stands as a modern reference that connects directly to Tudor’s Submariner history. From the 7922 of 1954, through the 7924 “Big Crown” of 1958, to the snowflake-handed Submariners of the 1970s, Tudor’s dive watches created a lineage respected by professionals and collectors alike. The discontinuation of Tudor Submariners in 1999 left a gap that was eventually filled by the Black Bay collection in 2012, and refined further by the Fifty-Eight in 2018. The 79030N is therefore both a continuation and a reinterpretation, using vintage design language and modern mechanical solutions to embody Tudor’s history of dive watches in a watch sized and styled for contemporary use.

Case & bracelet in very good condition, little to no wear visible. 

Dial & hands flawless.