Why We Love the Tudor Submariner 79090 Blue Dial (1991) 

Introduction: The Vintage Tudor Submariner 79090 Blue Dial

There are watches you wear, and then there are watches you remember. The 1991 Tudor Submariner Reference 79090 with its striking blue dial firmly belongs in the second category. In a world where vintage dive watches have become increasingly difficult to source in honest, original condition, the Tudor Submariner 79090 Blue stands apart as a timepiece that is simultaneously attainable and exceptional. It carries with it a military pedigree, a Rolex-adjacent heritage, and a character that its larger sibling has never quite managed to replicate. At Crown Vintage, we have a genuine passion for watches that earn their place on the wrist, and few do so with more conviction than this one.

The blue dial Tudor Submariner 79090 represents the final generation of the legendary Tudor Sub line before the reference was discontinued in the mid-1990s. Produced in an era when Tudor was still sharing cases and bracelets with Rolex, these watches offer a direct window into some of the finest material the Swiss watch industry was producing at the time. If you have ever admired the Rolex Submariner from a distance but wanted something with its own unmistakable personality, the Tudor 79090 Blue is a watch that deserves your full attention.

A Brief History of Tudor: From Hans Wilsdorf to the High Seas

To understand why the Tudor Submariner 79090 matters, you first need to understand where Tudor came from and what it was built to achieve.

In February 1926, the trademark "The Tudor" was registered in Geneva by the Swiss watchmaking house Veuve de Philippe Hüther, acting on behalf of Hans Wilsdorf, the same man who founded Rolex (Tudor Watch Company, official history). Wilsdorf had already established Rolex as a dominant force in the upper echelons of watchmaking. His vision for Tudor was different but equally ambitious. As Wilsdorf himself stated: "For some years now, I have been considering the idea of making a watch that our agents could sell at a more modest price than our Rolex watches, and yet one that would attain the standard of dependability for which Rolex is famous." That founding philosophy, quality without compromise at an accessible price, has defined Tudor ever since.

The company took formal shape on 6 March 1946, when Wilsdorf established Montres Tudor SA as a distinct entity (Wikipedia, Tudor Watches). From the outset, Rolex guaranteed the technical, aesthetic and functional characteristics of Tudor watches, along with handling distribution and after-sales service. Early Tudor watches shared the Oyster case that had made Rolex famous, giving the newer brand immediate credibility in terms of water resistance and build quality.

The name Tudor itself was chosen deliberately. It referenced the Tudor dynasty, a period of English and Welsh history defined by exploration, innovation and lasting cultural achievement. Wilsdorf, it appears, wanted his brand to stand for exactly those same values: the endurance of fine craftsmanship across generations.

Tudor launched its first diving watch in 1954, the Oyster Prince Submariner, initially waterproof to 100 metres, a figure that increased to 200 metres by 1958 (Wikipedia, Tudor Watches). The brand quickly proved its credentials in the most demanding environments possible. From the 1960s through to the mid-1980s, Tudor Submariners were issued to several of the world's elite naval forces, including the French Marine Nationale and, in a purpose-built variant beginning in 1964, the United States Navy (Wikipedia, Tudor Watches). These were not luxury purchases made to impress boardrooms. They were serious tools selected by serious people for serious work.

In 1969, Tudor introduced one of its most iconic references, the 7016, better known as the Snowflake Submariner. Named for its distinctive dial and hand design, the 7016 also introduced that legendary blue colour to the Tudor lineup, a distinction that Rolex itself would not offer in an all-stainless Submariner until 1984 (Ticking Time Homme, 1991 Tudor Submariner ref. 79090). The tradition of the blue Tudor Submariner, born with the Snowflake and carrying through to the 79090 and 79190 references of the 1990s, is one of the defining threads in the brand's history. It continues in spirit today through the modern Black Bay and Pelagos collections.

The Tudor Submariner 79090: Technical Specification

The Reference 79090, produced from approximately 1989 through to the mid-1990s, represents the final and arguably most refined evolution of the classic Tudor Submariner. Here is everything you need to know about what is inside and on the outside of this remarkable watch.

Case

The 79090 features a stainless steel Oyster-style case measuring 39mm in diameter, with a 20mm lug width (Arbitro, Tudor Submariner 79090 Blue Ghost Bezel). Crown guards are present and well-proportioned, providing protection to the Rolex-signed winding crown without dominating the overall profile. Examples from the early 1990s in lightly worn condition frequently retain impressively thick lugs, a testament to the quality of the original steel used in their construction. The caseback and crown both carry the Rolex crown mark, a detail that speaks to the close relationship between the two brands during this period.

Dial

The blue dial is the soul of this watch. It is a matte blue dial with no metal surrounds on the applied luminous hour markers, a feature sometimes described as "borderless" indices that is characteristic of vintage dive watches of this era (Arbitro, Tudor Submariner 79090). The hour markers and the iconic Mercedes-pattern hour hand are filled with tritium luminous compound. Over the decades, this tritium has aged naturally to a warm off-white patina that collectors find deeply appealing. On well-preserved examples, the ageing of the dial and handset is consistent and harmonious, a quality that speaks to a watch that has been stored carefully rather than abused.

At 12 o'clock, the Tudor shield logo is printed on the dial. The seconds hand features the distinctive lollipop style, a round luminous plot at its tip, while the hour hand uses the full Mercedes design with its three-segment head. The date window sits at 3 o'clock, confirming the 79090's position as the Oysterdate variant of the Tudor Submariner line.

Bezel

The 79090 is fitted with a blue aluminium bezel insert, graduated with a 60-minute diving scale and a tritium pip at the 12 o'clock position. This aluminium insert will show gentle fading on worn examples, developing what collectors often describe as a "ghost bezel" effect. Well-preserved inserts with the pip still present and minimal fading are among the most desirable features on any example of this reference. Unlike the ceramic bezels of modern dive watches, the aluminium insert of the 79090 tells a story through its wear.

Movement

Power inside the 79090 is provided by the ETA Calibre 2824-2, a Swiss-made automatic movement sourced from ETA SA (Collectors Corner NY, Tudor Submariner 79090). This was a well-regarded workhorse calibre, robust, reliable and straightforward to service. The 2824-2 beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides a power reserve of approximately 38 to 42 hours. While it is not an in-house manufacture movement in the manner of modern Tudor calibres, it was entirely appropriate for its era and continues to perform reliably in well-maintained examples today.

It is worth noting that the use of a third-party ETA movement, rather than a Rolex-derived calibre, was part of Tudor's deliberate strategy to offer quality at a more accessible price point. The movement is not signed as a chronometer, reflecting its positioning as a professional tool watch rather than a precision instrument for the observatory.

Bracelet

The correct bracelet for the 79090 in 1991 specification is the Tudor Reference 9315 folded link oyster bracelet, fitted with 380B endlinks (Ticking Time Homme, 1991 Tudor Submariner ref. 79090). The 9315 is a folded, rather than solid, link bracelet, which gives it a slightly lighter feel on the wrist compared to the solid link 93150 bracelet found on some later examples. The clasp will be stamped with a code corresponding to the year of production, a useful tool for verifying authenticity and dating a specific example. The bracelet carries Tudor's own signature rather than Rolex's, distinguishing it clearly from contemporary Rolex pieces.

Crystal

The 79090 is fitted with an acrylic (Plexiglas) crystal, a material that was standard for the period and remains a defining feature of vintage dive watches. Acrylic crystals are susceptible to scratching but are relatively easy to polish back to clarity. Many surviving examples have had the crystal replaced during service, as the original material can become hazy with age. A period-correct or recently replaced acrylic crystal is preferable to an incorrect aftermarket mineral or sapphire substitute.

Water Resistance

The Tudor Submariner 79090 was rated to 200 metres of water resistance, consistent with the Submariner specification that Tudor had established by 1958. While no vintage watch should be assumed to hold its original water resistance rating without a fresh pressure test, the Oyster-style case construction of the 79090 is inherently robust, and properly serviced examples can be pressure-tested and worn in reasonable proximity to water.

Why Collectors Love the Tudor Submariner 79090 Blue Dial

The arguments in favour of the 79090 Blue are compelling on several fronts simultaneously.

The first is value. The blue dial Snowflake Submariners from the late 1960s and 1970s have become genuinely expensive on the vintage market, often commanding prices that require serious commitment. The 79090, as the final generation of the line, offers the same blue Tudor Submariner experience, the same Rolex-adjacent case quality, the same military heritage, and the same distinctive character, at a price point that remains significantly more accessible (Ticking Time Homme, 1991 Tudor Submariner ref. 79090). For collectors who want to wear their watch rather than insure it into inactivity, that distinction is meaningful.

The second argument is rarity. Blue dial 79090 examples are produced in smaller numbers than their black dial counterparts, making them more sought-after and harder to find in excellent original condition (Ticking Time Homme, 1990 Tudor Submariner ref. 79090). When you add the requirement for an honest, unpolished case with thick lugs, a matching patinated handset, an original bezel insert and a correct bracelet with appropriate clasp code, the pool of genuinely excellent examples narrows considerably.

The third is its connection to history. Tudor Submariners were worn by divers, soldiers and adventurers at a time when a watch was the most reliable piece of technology on your wrist. The 79090 may be a 1991 production watch rather than a Cold War-era military issue, but it belongs to an unbroken lineage of professional dive watches that stretches back to 1954. Wearing one is wearing that history.

Finally, there is the simple matter of aesthetics. The blue dial Tudor Submariner 79090 is a genuinely beautiful watch. The warm patina of the tritium lume plots against the deep blue of the dial, complemented by the cool aluminium of the bezel insert, creates a colour palette that is unique in vintage watchmaking. It does not look like anything else, and that is a rare thing.

Final Thoughts: The Tudor Submariner 79090 Blue Dial and Crown Vintage

At Crown Vintage, our philosophy is straightforward. We believe in watches that have earned their reputation through quality, heritage and honesty. The 1991 Tudor Submariner Reference 79090 Blue Dial meets all three criteria without reservation.

This is a watch built on the foundations laid by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, refined through decades of military service and professional use, and delivered in a final-generation form that captures everything collectors admire about the vintage Tudor Submariner line. The blue dial variant, with its tritium patina, aluminium bezel insert and Mercedes handset, is among the most visually compelling versions of the reference.

Sourcing an example in genuinely honest condition requires patience and knowledge. Cases should show appropriate wear without signs of aggressive polishing. The dial, hands and bezel insert should be original and showing consistent, natural ageing. The bracelet should carry the correct reference markings and a clasp code that corresponds to the production period of the case. These are the details that separate a truly authentic vintage watch from a compromised one, and they are the details that Crown Vintage examines carefully on every piece we offer.

If you are building a collection with depth, or if you want a single vintage dive watch that combines heritage, wearability, rarity and beauty, the Tudor Submariner 79090 Blue Dial is one of the finest choices available in the current market. It is the kind of watch that, once on the wrist, answers every question a collector could possibly ask.

References

• Tudor Watch Company. Inside Tudor: History 1926 to 1949. tudorwatch.com. Retrieved 2025.
• Wikipedia. Tudor Watches. en.wikipedia.org. Retrieved 2025.
• Ticking Time Homme. 1991 Tudor Submariner ref. 79090. tickingtimehomme.com. Retrieved 2025.
• Ticking Time Homme. 1990 Tudor Submariner ref. 79090. tickingtimehomme.com. Retrieved 2025.
• Arbitro. Tudor Submariner 79090 Blue Ghost Bezel. arbitro.shop. Retrieved 2025.
• Collectors Corner NY. Tudor Submariner 79090 Blue Dial. collectorscornerny.com. Retrieved 2025.
• Bulang and Sons. Tudor Submariner Date Blue Dial Reference 79090. bulangandsons.com. Retrieved 2025.
• Analog:Shift. The Story of Tudor Watches. analogshift.com. Retrieved 2025.

Watches by Timepiece. History of the Tudor Brand. watchesbytimepiece.com. Retrieved 2025.

• Case in very good condition, little to no wear visible. 
• Case lighlty polished 
• Bracelet in very good condition, some stretch as to be expected with age.

• Dial & hands excellent